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MAF Question

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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 07:23 PM
  #1  
kissingbug1978's Avatar
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MAF Question

Ok, earlier in the week I posted a thread about having water in my fuel. Heres my troubles. Under hard acceleration the truck would would loose power at around 2500 rpms and drop down to an idle for approx 2-3 seconds and then would drive perfect under normal driving conditions. Problem got progressively worse til the point that it would barely pull itself up hill. So, I drained the HFCM changed the fuel filters and added a bottle of diesel kleen and 2 bottles of water remover. Problem is still there. While feeling very frustrated and thinking about how I was about to be raped by a dealership. The truck was at an idle and I just put my hand on the MAF sensor and.... It died! Just to verify I did it again but, this time I had to shake it a little. And once again it died. And after thinking about it I remember it loosing power several times after hitting bumps in the road. So I bought a can of MAF cleaner and cleaned it, then put it all back together and now it will barely start. Just wandering if you guys think I'm on the right track and if anyone else has had a smiliar problem.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 07:27 PM
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sounds like you are, if you have ohmmeter or Digital Multi Meter , check the resistance of the sensor while somone taps on it. it should stay stady....
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 10:50 PM
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I was trying to shake down a problem on my 2004 and was guided by a tech to unplug the MAF sensor and take it for a drive. It seemed to be better with it unplugged. It did set a code while unplugged. Perhaps this is not the case on other model years? On these it is one of the sensors used to detect EGR flow. There is also a intake air temp sensor in the MAF module which is one of the sensors that is used to set injection timing. Aparently not that critical either since it ran great while unplugged.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by misterc
I was trying to shake down a problem on my 2004 and was guided by a tech to unplug the MAF sensor and take it for a drive. It seemed to be better with it unplugged. It did set a code while unplugged. Perhaps this is not the case on other model years? On these it is one of the sensors used to detect EGR flow. There is also a intake air temp sensor in the MAF module which is one of the sensors that is used to set injection timing. Aparently not that critical either since it ran great while unplugged.
What was wrong with your truck?
 
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 11:02 AM
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It turned out that the dealer had reflashed my truck after telling me that they wouldn't. I was trying to find out why it was down on power. I didn't even think to check for a strategy number since I ,at that point, trusted the dealer to be truthful. It turns out that assumption was wrong.
I was basically trying to retrace the steps of what the tech had his hands on. He replaced the MAP sensor and he had the MAF sensor tube off.
I had taken them a good running truck that I knew had stuck vanes in the turbo. It would overboost while towing to 40 psi. The tech said that was impossible since it placed a P0299 code which is titled "underboost". Actually the P0299 code should be titled "outside of boost parameters" or something similar. He changed the MAP sensor and probably at that point flashed the truck for spite ( he basically called me a liar when I told him it was overboosting) and told me the truck was fixed. It was a slug and it still overboosted. I had to turn around with my trailer and return home. After many hours, I finally got the service writer to get permission to data log the truck with the trailer attached. Tech came back and said it was underboosting because it placed the P0299 again. He changed the turbo. What an ordeal.
I bought a AutoEngineuity scanner to try and find where the power went. The injection timing numbers were in the negative numbers. The truck ran better with the MAF/IAT sensor disconnected probably because the IAT sensor has something to do with the injection timing. Anyway after messing around looking at data off and on for several months I decided to see if the scanner would show a strategy number. It was the inductive heat flash. It went in there(dealer) with the buzz flash. I thought that my hearing had gotten to the point that I couldn't hear the buzz anymore. I guess that I am too trusting.
Anyway, that's my story.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 11:33 AM
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That's cool, At least you have a new turbo out of it. All they did with mine was clean it. I would be concerned about the head bolts stretching with that much boost. Did the tech say they were fine or did he even check?
 
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 11:55 AM
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Inductive heat flash should not cause a loss of power or mileage. At least it didn't on my truck!
 
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 06:16 PM
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The tech never believed there was an overboost. Being that there is no code for overboost. If a code didn't spell it out it didn't happen was his attitude.
I am not the only one that lost power with the inductive heat flash. Check all of the forums. Trucks going in for oil changes are getting power flashed away without a word. I thought that I was pulling my trailer into a 30 mph head wind or the trailer brakes were dragging. It killed the torque in the midrange. Even without the trailer the truck lays down when it used to pull strong.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2009 | 09:43 PM
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Replaced MAF tonight and all is well. Thanks for all the input
 
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Old Feb 23, 2009 | 06:41 AM
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I take back my last statement. Drove the truck to work on Friday and it was back to the same old stuff. Called the dealership to see about getting a diagnostic done and found out that I'm still under warranty until April. Truck gave up the ghost in route and had to get a piggy back ride the rest of the way. I'll repost after I find out what the problem is.
 
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