lookinng for opinions and ideas here from ya . first im gonna ask all you other flatty owners a couple . adjustable lifters , are they worth the price using a stock cam ?? seems it to me but no experience with 'em . how often do they need adjustment ??? is the factory beehive filter worth a da-n ?? got one i just picked up from a 50 model so ..... i am going to block the heat risers , an old trick i used on all of my past cars and trucks , does the beloved flatty take well to this { heat risers in the block / intake } ??? even with leaking head gaskets mine was cold natured and a little cranky so should be fun . boxing the frame versus adding extra crossmembers . i got extra crossmembers { there is nothing wrong with my frame by the way } but am considering due to some things seen , of adding them or boxing to help a little bit with the strength issue . whats your opinion ?? anyone tried to mate a duraspark electronics internals with a flatty distributor ?? got one laying here and just had a brain fart ya know .... how about a source for flatty dizzy parts ??? i need a couple of small items for the chevy dizzy were turning down that i cant seem to find in the catalogs . any one know of a source ???? i got more but it's time to go to the four letter word so ............

 

I wasn't to sure about your "dizzy," question but wirth's has lots of parts and accessories for the flathead...take a look here www.wirthscustomauto.com

 

NOS, used, reproduction Flatty parts: earlyfordstore.com located in San Dimas CA (near the Pomona Fair Grounds).

 

The main benifit I see in adjustable lifters is in the ease of adjusting. Once adjusted properly with either type they should not need further attention until you find yourself working on the valves again.
Getting the valves set with the original style lifters can be quite a challenge. Especially the first few times you tackle the job.
Just like everything else with experience comes confidence in doing the job and it gets easier but still not easy by any means.

Heat risers. The passages from the block to heat the manifold.
With them blocked they have a nice sound with duals but it does cause drivability issues. I say try it both ways and decide. It is easy enough to pull the manifold and plug or unplog them.

 

thanx for the replies guy's gonna go check those aforementioned sites now , and 52 she's a cranky ol' broad now especially in the winter so it can't be any worse LOL !! it was a trick i used on everything else i've owned and figured it might work well on the flatty , maybe even a heat sheild and/ or a phenolic spacer to keep as much heat as possible away from the carb / fuel .

 

Not really sure why you think the frame needs beefing especially with a stock flathead? It's lasted 50 years already with likely leading a much harder life than you'll ever give it without any extra beefing.
Same with blocking the heat risers (not sure if a flattie even has heat risers???) that's an old hotrodder's "trick" that was supposed to keep the carb cooler to increase the fuel air density for racing purposes. Didn't really work then, still doesn't work today. File it with putting tinfoil and clothespins on the fuel line, removing the thermostat to keep the engine cool and all the gizmos that promise 100 miles/gal fuel milege.

 

dain ax you mean all the tin foil , clothespins and stuff i got on there don't work ???? LOL !!!!!!!!! as far as the frame i have had two parts ones now , and my cuz's that were split big time by the front cab mounts and one further back just in front of the front / rear leaf spring hanger . im going to make / add a rear tranny mount { just dont like 140 - 170 pounds of tranny hanging there by four bolts !!! } and my thinking was what the h-l- i got 'em if it'll help i'll do it . in the past on other toys i've boxed and gusseted the frame and crossmembers , but they were making a lil' more power than the flatty . maybe im crazy but an ounce of prevention ...........

 

I don't recommend the penniies for the heat risers. Even with relatively mild winters here, the manifold really needs the heat. Now you can put a phenolic block under the carb to keep it cool, but still have a warm manifold. Another thing is, the pennies don't always fit tight, and it looks to me like they could drop down into the center exhaust passage...

Adjustable lifters would be nice, but like F3 said if you set the stock setup right, they don't need attention for years and years. Plus there isn't a lighter lifter on earth than the stock lifters, the adjustable are 2X or more. Not like you'd be at 8,000 RPM with a flatty but it's less wear and tear to have light ones, less valve spring pressure needed.

I run the factory bypass filter, it looks dirty when I change it... They are a much finer filter than a spin-on, but of course don't filter the oil on its way to the bearings. All I can say is, these engines seem to last a long time with NO oil filter using modern oils and unleaded gas, and since the bypass filters provide some extra measure of insurance, why not?

Boxing the frame will reduce or eliminate the flexibility of the frame, which is an integral part of the design. Ford actually spent a lot of effort to coordinate all the various pieces floating on the frame, if you make the frame stiff, something might break instead of flexing.

 

The frame boxing may also effect handling and ride etc. if you still have the stock suspension system. I have a mild 460 in my old 54 F250 and haven't boxed it because I still run the stock suspension. If I was doing a bunch of work to the engine and adding a different suspension, I'd probably do some frame boxing.

 

I know it is off your topic, and I don't know how far you are restoring your 55 F-350, but have you found a supplier that actually caries the F-250 Hood Emblems? I can't find anybody that actually has them.

 

i dont have the f 350 anymore , and i cant recall seeing any emblems for the bigger trucks in a catalog anywhere . the guys have told many with the larger trucks to try chucks trucks so maybe him . ok though on the frame . i'll just add the rear tranny support im going to make and leave be . i was / am concerned as i have seen so many around here split in places . still thinking about the heat risers as it is daily transport when it's in one peice , but no pennies ill make some covers . any of you heard anything or bought the new proform flatty distributor ?? it's an electronic unit , new , that has to have a box to run it but i found it WAY affordable on evilbay and am considering it . any input ??? it's only 139 compared to 4-5 or so for msd , or mallory .

 

here's another question for you . any of you know where i can get a chrome or stainless " fancy " dressup bolt KIT for the entire flatty like for all the late model stuff ????

 

I thought you were making a Chev distributor for your flatty? Don't know about the Proform, anything that uses proprietary pieces, I'd shy away from. The MSD uses all Ford and GM parts that are easy to get. (major exception appears to be the dizzy cap itself)

Red's, Speedway, etc all have dress-up kits; for an 8BA with head bolts (not studs), I think most offer an acorn-looking "cap" that fits over the bolt heads.

 

yep still trying that ross , but as usual trying to cover my ars just in case something goes awry !! would prefer it with the petronix dropped in as it would look like it belongs there , or to use that overused term ol' skool . yeah been looking at reds site for a while now . was hoping to find it all in a kit ready to go but ..... prolly just clean up the oe stuff maybe powder coat 'em . still trying to convince the banker that i need a whole new valvetrain from reds isn't working though LOL!!!!!!!!!! welp off to the grind later !

 

How is the battery on a 1950 F1 grounded, positve or negative?