I need some info
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I need some info
Ok i just bought a 1989 7.3 idi. It has a ATS turbo kit a new clutch kit and stacks. its a 5-speed. Now my ? is i have read alot of articles saying that the 7.3 has problems starting or when they warm up they dont want to start back up again. It starts fine and runs good its about 40 degrees rite now where i live. I just dont want problems next winter. Is there anyway i can check or is there anything i can do. if you have any answers even if they mite not be rite let me know ok thanks.
Postmaster
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From: Sweet Home, OR
Welcome to the site!
About the only thing that can make these motors start hard are bad glow plugs (system) or air intrusuion into the fuel system.
Also if you have weak batteries or bad cables the engine won't spin fast enough to cause the compression ignition that diesels operate by/on.
If the engine has trouble starting when it's warm it either has the afformentioned air intrusion problem or a bad injection pump (IP). DON'T pour water on the IP when it is warm or you will ruin it.
Air intrusion is the bain of these motors/trucks, glow plug problems are a close second. If your truck doesn't seem to have these problems it was probably well cared for. These two maladies are most often the result of neglect/poor maintenence.
About the only thing that can make these motors start hard are bad glow plugs (system) or air intrusuion into the fuel system.
Also if you have weak batteries or bad cables the engine won't spin fast enough to cause the compression ignition that diesels operate by/on.
If the engine has trouble starting when it's warm it either has the afformentioned air intrusion problem or a bad injection pump (IP). DON'T pour water on the IP when it is warm or you will ruin it.
Air intrusion is the bain of these motors/trucks, glow plug problems are a close second. If your truck doesn't seem to have these problems it was probably well cared for. These two maladies are most often the result of neglect/poor maintenence.
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thanks for the info i hope the truck is fine but since i already have a turbo and the clutch kit what else can i do to make it smoke a lil bit. i heard you can turn up the injection pump but i dont want to mess with the timing. any suggestions? thanks
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From: Sweet Home, OR
I wouldn't recommend more smoke, all it is is wasted fuel.
If you want smoke don't put the turbo on it and send it to me.
I'll give you a pyrometer, then you can monitor your exhaust gas temperature so you don't melt the pistons out of your motor.
That's my tongue-in-cheek way of saying put the turbo on and forget the useless black smoke.
I wouldn't mess with the timing or turn the pump up, both of which are pretty easy to do, without installing a pyrometer first.
If you want smoke don't put the turbo on it and send it to me.
I'll give you a pyrometer, then you can monitor your exhaust gas temperature so you don't melt the pistons out of your motor.
That's my tongue-in-cheek way of saying put the turbo on and forget the useless black smoke.
I wouldn't mess with the timing or turn the pump up, both of which are pretty easy to do, without installing a pyrometer first.
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From: Sweet Home, OR
Supposedly not but I can tell you that my STOCK '94 Factory turbo IDI will blow the doors off of my STOCK '97 PowerStroke.
You can definitely make an IDI perform with ANY stock PS with a turbo, tuning, exhaust etc.
Remember that you could get stock PS engines up to 350 HP. That's a lot to get out of an IDI but it can be done.
You'll get at least as good of mileage too, those new 6.4L PSs get crappy mileage.
You can definitely make an IDI perform with ANY stock PS with a turbo, tuning, exhaust etc.
Remember that you could get stock PS engines up to 350 HP. That's a lot to get out of an IDI but it can be done.
You'll get at least as good of mileage too, those new 6.4L PSs get crappy mileage.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
snowsf250,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
I must be to tired, I could have sworn I posted to this thread a while ago.
Glow plugs, batteries, clean cable connections and a good tight return line system are the secret to a good starting diesel.
We can go into more specific's later.
Welcome to FTE and the IDI diesel forum.
I must be to tired, I could have sworn I posted to this thread a while ago.
Glow plugs, batteries, clean cable connections and a good tight return line system are the secret to a good starting diesel.
We can go into more specific's later.
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How many miles does the typical idi run? is there anything i should check now that could cause a problem later?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
With the 7.3 the first thing you need to do is check the SCA level in the coolant.
Depending on how good it was taken care of and how hard it has been worked, 300 K is usually the lower number, and the upper number could be well over 400 K.
Depending on how good it was taken care of and how hard it has been worked, 300 K is usually the lower number, and the upper number could be well over 400 K.
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ok that sounds good to me. i want to get a pyrometer, boost gauge, and a trans temp gauge. i was looking at summit racing but i was wondering if there was a beter place to get them at or a cheaper place. and also whats the best sounding eguast or the most performance or is straight piped the best way to go. sry im asking so many questions im just wondering cause im new at this. Any opinons are considered. thanx
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
My pyrometer is so old I can't remember where I got it now.
US Diesel or something like that, in Montana if I remember right.
I went with Isspro because they are the oldest pyrometer maker I know of for heavy duty diesels and most of them seem to still work when you run into one of the old ones.
Cost was about in line with the rest of the places selling them then.
Boost gauge, I went with the matching boost gauge when I added the turbo and moved them to a pillar pod.
SCA level is checked with test strips from NAPA.
US Diesel or something like that, in Montana if I remember right.
I went with Isspro because they are the oldest pyrometer maker I know of for heavy duty diesels and most of them seem to still work when you run into one of the old ones.
Cost was about in line with the rest of the places selling them then.
Boost gauge, I went with the matching boost gauge when I added the turbo and moved them to a pillar pod.
SCA level is checked with test strips from NAPA.