Hi-just joined this site and already looking for help. I have a 2002 F250 7.3 and it shut off on me a couple of times this last month. Last week I drove it one day, worked fine, next day it did not want to start. (CPS has been replaced) When I turn the key on all the dash warning lights come on as usual, and all go off except for the glow plug light. After about 20 seconds the glow plug light goes off and then all dash warning lights come back on. I can also hear a "clicking" noise that seems to come from behind the headlight switch. If I plug in the headbolt heater for a hour or so I can get it started but it shuts off the first few times. When driving the speedometer will not work-this was fine a week ago also. I checked the fuses and replaced both batteries and made sure they were fully charged. Does anyone have any suggestions before I give up and take it to a garage??? I keep thinking it will be something so simple I will wonder why I didn't think of it! (I have a spare CPS I could put in but last time it went out it did not act like this at all.)

 

Welcome to FTE. Sounds like we need to move this down to the 7.3 section. If you look further down the main forum listing you'll find we have a 99-03 7.3 diesel section. I'll see if I can't get one of the moderators to move this for you.

Was there any signs of corrosion on your battery cables? Clicking noises typically point to a voltage issue. Double check your battery connections and don't forget the other ends of the cables (grounds and starter connection)

Your description of the dash lights makes it sound like the PCM is trying to reset. The places to check for chaffed wires which may cause this are 1) the large harness that runs over the drivers side valve cover and goes into a square box with a bolt in the middle of it. Also check the wires coming out of the back of this box where they are near the bracket that holds the box. 2) a wiring harness that goes over the top of the drivers side shock (on some trucks) and 3) in the steering column. Playing with the tilt will sometimes move the wires to help diagnose this.

You also said the truck shut off a couple of times. Did the CEL (check engine light) come on? If so, getting the codes read would be helpful. Also, where did you get the new CPS from? There have been numerous reported issues with aftermarkdet CPS units from NAPA, etc. going bad very quickly, or even right out of the box.

 

Update to post: Took truck to garage, they replaced the ABS Module ($474.60 plus programming $126). Everything seems to work. A quick fix if on the road when it happens would be to pull the ABS fuse=anti-lock brakes would not work but everything else would, or so I was told.

 

Yes check valve cover i have same symptons and conector under valve cover pop out .P.S. Chris are you recive conector Thank you Adam

 

Thanks for following up with us. This will help next time we see this problem.

Yes Adam, it came in the mail today. Thanks. I was surprised to find that the injector wires have a bare wire wrapped around them that is looped on the end and doesn't go to anything. I need to dig through the wiring diagrams and see if I can figure out if that's just to supposed to help shield the wires or what it's for.

 

Where are you located mtgorgy I think you need scanner

 

Shielding for EMI (electromagnetic interference). Since current can be induced into conductors (a wire) simply by switching current on and off in an adjacent wire, it is important to shield the high-current wires from sensitive electronic conductors.

 

Thanks Cody. That's what I was guessing, only because I couldn't come up with any other ideas.

 

Libby, Mt. Garage said they used a Snap On brand scanner without picking anything up.

 

HI look this site AutoEnginuity® - OBD2 Scan Tool - Professional PC and PDA Diagnostics this scaner works for powerstroke.

 

Welcome to FTE! Here's a free bump and come join the MT Chapter!