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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Oil pan problems......again

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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 12:20 PM
  #16  
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The pump that I am using is the one that the engine builder sent with it. Ford 302 - 331HP Crate Engine is a link to the site from the company I ordered it from. It has a few specs on there. I went with an engine built for me for this exact reason. I don't know anything about them. I figured learning to build a truck was enough for one project, maybe the engine could be learned on the second one I'll eventually do.

As for the 302 or 351W, I'm assuming it's a 302. They said that is what they were building for me, but I don't know the difference between the two. The C4 I got from somewhere else, not with the engine.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 12:39 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by tiger_698
The pump that I am using is the one that the engine builder sent with it. Ford 302 - 331HP Crate Engine is a link to the site from the company I ordered it from.
Take that oil pump to NAPA or a good indie parts store and compare it to their pump.

I was going to suggest taking it to a Ford or L/M dealer to compare, but...

No dealer in MO has one in stock, the closest dealer that has any is Bob Allen Ford in Overland Park KS.

I'll betcha the builder sent you the wrong pump.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 12:48 PM
  #18  
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If I look at the pump compared to others on the net, it looks exactly the same as them. The pump had no problem when there was a front sump hooked to it. There was plenty of clearance in the oil pan. When I switched to the rear sump, the front of the oil pan isn't near as deep, and that's where I'm having problems.

The oil pump is bolted to the engine right now. Everything lines up correctly when it's in there. I would guess it's the oil pan before the oil pump. But the oil pan is shaped exactly like it should to sit onto the block. That's why I think that a ball pein hammer would fix the problem. If i just put a dent into the oil pan where those bolts are (and it won't even be a very big dent at all) I think it would give enough clearance to sit flush.

My only concern is movement. I don't want those bolts rubbing up against the oil pan. I don't know how much the oil pump would move, if any, inside the oil pan. I just don't know anything about engines.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 12:53 PM
  #19  
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If the pump you are using is a high volume pump they are generally taller to accomodate the taller pump gears. Also, the engine could be a '69 but the pump could have came from god knows what year or model. I would say get a pump from the parts store that matches the same application as your pan, pickup, etc, and see if it is any different. As NumberDummy asked, are you sure it is not a 351W?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 12:55 PM
  #20  
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Seems to me if the oil pump isn't the problem, then you have the wrong pan.

The only high volume oil pump Ford factory installed in anything was in 1969/70 Boss 302 Mustangs.

This is a different pump. I didn't mention it because it's not relevant to the issue, and these pumps are as rare as hens teeth, so I doubt that's what it is.

Besides the Boss, there is only one 302 (221/260/289) oil pump used 1962/96.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 01:19 PM
  #21  
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Just a thought it could be a after market high volume pump if that would make a difference and the 351W pan is a lot wider then a 302.

Chuck
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 01:39 PM
  #22  
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I looked at the link you provided and under the engine specs is says: " Heavy duty, high volume Melling oil pump " That could be your problem. High volume pumps usually look the same but are taller.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 01:45 PM
  #23  
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The pan itself matches all the bolts on the block. If it is a high volume pump, I need to stay with what it is. My engine has a one year warranty as long as I don't change any internal parts. They said changing the oil pan wouldn't void the warranty. But if they're putting a high volume pump on the engine, I would think that it would be necessary to stay with that one because the engine probably needs it. But I'm just guessing.

I did make it over to my dad's house and took the pictures, but of course I forgot the cord to run from the camera to the computer. I'm so used to having the slot built into my lap top that I can just put the memory card directly into.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 04:12 PM
  #24  
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Hey Tiger, I live in Phoenix AZ, a few miles away from this shop, if you would like I can get some specifics on the engine they built for you.

Joe
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 04:31 PM
  #25  
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I put this exact setup on my 84 302 with no interference what so ever. Keep looking, something is wrong. Are you fitting it with the gasket in place?
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 04:31 PM
  #26  
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There is a difference between 351W and 302 oil pans. I believe it is the end bolt hole sizes, or something like that. I would look for a part number on the oil pump, and post that.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 10:18 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by granadojl
Hey Tiger, I live in Phoenix AZ, a few miles away from this shop, if you would like I can get some specifics on the engine they built for you.

Joe
Joe, thanks, but I got it figured out. Well kind of. I took the ball pein hammer to it. I used a crayon, cut into small pieces. I put them on the tops of the 4 screws. It ended up being just one of the screws that was causing the problem. It was the one by the corner of the pan.

One thing I wasn't doing was okiedokie's recommendation. I was doing it without. But I got it to where it would almost sit flush, and then put the gasket on. That gave me plenty of clearance to put the pan on. It's not completely smooth now, but you'd have to climb underneath the truck to see that there is something wrong with it. I got the oil pan put on, and then mounted the tranny. After that I mounted the engine to the frame. It looks pretty!!!
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 07:08 PM
  #28  
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The 302 in my coupe has an aftermarket oil pump and the shop used a hammer to put a bulge in the front of the pan for clearance instead of the bottom. They did a nice job and you would have to know where to look to tell its not original.
Just curious what was the outcome of the torque converter not installing on your trans?
 
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Old Feb 14, 2009 | 11:42 PM
  #29  
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Short story: The input shaft wasn't seated all the way because it was in the tranny backwards.

Long story: The input shaft (i believe that's the name of the shaft that comes out of the front pump) wasn't put in the correct way (the part for the t/c was set inside of the tranny). With me trying to force it on there, i damaged it and what ever it slips into inside of the tranny. I ended up taking it to a different guy because the one that had rebuilt the thing for me was getting pissy about it. I had paid him less than what it would have costed to take it to a shop, so I didn't lose a lot by changing mechanics. Anyway, the new guy that I went to was very nice and helpful. He changed that shaft along with the internal part, and made the shaft universal. So either way you put that it in, it'll go in the tranny and the t/c.
 
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 12:32 AM
  #30  
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Glad you got it going. I guess I hadn't thought about it possibly being in backwards.
 
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