sound system upgrade
#1
02-12-2009, 07:29 PM
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sound system upgrade
I am trying to decide on how to upgrade my Sound system. I have put in big Systems in the past and I really do not want to spend that kind of loot also I do not want to sacrifice cargo area. I would like something simple, that sounds good. without Breaking the bank I have the factory 6 disc Now will it produce the right sound with some quality speakers or should I dump it for an aftermarket H/U I have about $500.00 to spend right now. Any suggestions would be appreciated, also Pics. If you have tried stuff that did not work I would be interested in knowing that as well. Sound quality is my main priority. Volume Is secondary. Sorry for the long post.
#2
02-12-2009, 09:28 PM
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I like my factory indash 6disc. I have it hooked to a pair of 10" subs stuffed behind the back seats. I wish I had used 12"s but it should run you about $500 for a good amp and subs in a custom box covered in matching carpet. My next upgrade will be $300-500 components for the front and an amp to push them. I'm looking at that costing $500-700 and will hopefully give me an upgrade over the stock premium speakers which are pretty good. Not at the same quality as my last set of $500 components, but not bad at all.
The reason I suggest subs first, is you probably have a premium stereo and the stock speakers are decent. I got them down to 100Hz with very little distortion before the volume became uncomfortable for me. Adding subs will give you the freq's below what the stocks can handle and you will need them with a component system as well. Mid range speakers shouldn't really go much below 80hz, leaving 80-20Hz to be produced by the subs.
The reason I suggest subs first, is you probably have a premium stereo and the stock speakers are decent. I got them down to 100Hz with very little distortion before the volume became uncomfortable for me. Adding subs will give you the freq's below what the stocks can handle and you will need them with a component system as well. Mid range speakers shouldn't really go much below 80hz, leaving 80-20Hz to be produced by the subs.
#4
02-12-2009, 09:51 PM
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I built my own box. I like the even response of a seal box so it's easy to build them.
I have a Pair of Rockford Fosgate P1 8ohm, they are cheap and perform well enough. I picked up an Alpine class D 2 channel amp, wired in parallel for 4ohm and 200watts. I think my next build for this truck will be a single 12" at 4ohms and staying at 200watts. I plan for 100watts for the components so they should be pretty even and require little tweaking to sound just right.
I have a Pair of Rockford Fosgate P1 8ohm, they are cheap and perform well enough. I picked up an Alpine class D 2 channel amp, wired in parallel for 4ohm and 200watts. I think my next build for this truck will be a single 12" at 4ohms and staying at 200watts. I plan for 100watts for the components so they should be pretty even and require little tweaking to sound just right.
#6
02-12-2009, 10:32 PM
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Contrary to popular belief, making a sealed box is simple. If have basic carpentry skills and decent tools you can knock one out in a day. Find the specs of the speaker, looking at sealed volume. Figure out where your going to place the box and the basic design. Then multiply the req volume by 1728 then divide that number by the surface area of your template or the side area of your new box. This will give you the length. You can get plenty technical in the displacement of the 3/4 mdf and the sub, but it's not extremely critical if your going to stuff the box.
If you want to make a template and use my design, it's a part of a triangle. The base is 7.5", 15 or 17" tall and 3.5" across the top. The hypotenuse is just alittle longer than the height. Then I think it's about 58" long to make 2CF.
If you want to make a template and use my design, it's a part of a triangle. The base is 7.5", 15 or 17" tall and 3.5" across the top. The hypotenuse is just alittle longer than the height. Then I think it's about 58" long to make 2CF.
#7
02-13-2009, 01:29 PM
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If you aren't comfortable making your own box then check out our sponsor SuperCrewSound.
SuperCrewSound - Quality Subwoofer Enclosures made in the USA - Ford F-250/F-350 Crew Cab 99-08 BTS Dual Speaker Box
I recommend that box with 2 Image Dynamics IDQ10D2V3 subs. Then you just need to find an amp to match up with them.
SuperCrewSound - Quality Subwoofer Enclosures made in the USA - Ford F-250/F-350 Crew Cab 99-08 BTS Dual Speaker Box
I recommend that box with 2 Image Dynamics IDQ10D2V3 subs. Then you just need to find an amp to match up with them.
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#8
02-13-2009, 08:16 PM
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If you aren't comfortable making your own box then check out our sponsor SuperCrewSound.
SuperCrewSound - Quality Subwoofer Enclosures made in the USA - Ford F-250/F-350 Crew Cab 99-08 BTS Dual Speaker Box
I recommend that box with 2 Image Dynamics IDQ10D2V3 subs. Then you just need to find an amp to match up with them.
SuperCrewSound - Quality Subwoofer Enclosures made in the USA - Ford F-250/F-350 Crew Cab 99-08 BTS Dual Speaker Box
I recommend that box with 2 Image Dynamics IDQ10D2V3 subs. Then you just need to find an amp to match up with them.
#9
02-16-2009, 07:45 PM
The most important part of any audio system is the speakers. Mainly, the front speakers. To get the most bang for your buck, you'll want to skip the aftermarket head unit, and skip the subwoofer system.
Instead, spend that same amount of money on the front speakers, and pay special attention to how they are located and positioned. $500.00 gets you a little over half-way to a good set of speakers, so keep on saving, and spend when you get there.
Remember, NEVER buy speakers unless you have listened to them first.
-Bill
2003 IASCA Amateur Street World Champion
2003 SLAP Amateur Street National Champion
Linear Power - Dynaudio - Sony - Scosche
My Little Truck
My Other Projects
Instead, spend that same amount of money on the front speakers, and pay special attention to how they are located and positioned. $500.00 gets you a little over half-way to a good set of speakers, so keep on saving, and spend when you get there.
Remember, NEVER buy speakers unless you have listened to them first.
-Bill
2003 IASCA Amateur Street World Champion
2003 SLAP Amateur Street National Champion
Linear Power - Dynaudio - Sony - Scosche
My Little Truck
My Other Projects
#11
02-16-2009, 08:44 PM
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I believe he's advocating improving the response you have instead of increasing your dynamic range. I do agree on the $500 component systems. I had an old set of RF Q's that were great. However, the premium speakers aren't terrible. So decide which you want more quality from the range you have or the same quality with more range. I think the last 20-80Hz are critical, but I like a double bass picked slowly
#12
02-16-2009, 08:51 PM
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Clarity is the most important to me. right now if I turn the tunes up halfway they sound crappy. I have a slight bit of hearing loss so maybe it is me But if can install speakers in the stock locations and gain the clarity I am looking for then I am in anyone have suggestions? Also I saw the factory subwoofer on line how hard are those to hook up and do I need a different radio for that? or Should I pass on them?
#13
02-16-2009, 08:57 PM
As for the recommendation about brand, I'll re-post some previous stuff...
No one can answer this question for you. The only valid advice that anyone can give you is "Go and listen". Your personal taste (and your goals for the sound) will be different from anyone else, so if someone suggests a brand here, it can only be what THEY like, not necessarily what YOU would like.
As a hobby, regardless of wether I'm building a stereo system or not, I go to Audio Dealers and Manufacturers to listen to every speaker I can possibly listen to about twice per year. I always bring a set of tracks that I am VERY familiar with, that I have actually heard "Live". In 1999 when I was putting together my Durango, I made my rounds to listen, and Dynaudio was my first choice. They have a character that absolutely does not add any color to what you're listening to. You can hear the whole recording, and nothing but the recording. They also reveal more detail and texture in the music than anything else I had listened to. (At the time)
Now... EVERY time I suggest that a person go and listen to speakers before they buy, there are folks that repeat "Speakers never sound the same in the car as they do in a store" This is true. They don't sound exactly the same in their staging and imaging, but that's not what I'm listening for. If a speaker cannot present proper tonal response, attack and decay, linearity, etc... in a storefront environment, then how could I possibly like it in a car? If you HATE the speakers in the store, don't buy them. If they're your best choice in the store, odds are that they will be your best choice in the car. (I've had some experience with this over the years)
So... I can read your mind... You're thinking: "He chose Dynaudio in 1999, but would he choose Dynaudio again?" The answer isn't simple. I would choose the best speaker for the application, and since 1999 I've judged many audio systems, and listened to many store demo boards. Since building the Durango that you see in my pictures, I've done audio systems in three different vehicles (2 of them mine) and I chose a different brand for each project. The one car that did not belong to me had a budget limit, but we found a really nice compromise. Additionally, If I would choose ONE set of speakers from a particular brand, it does not necessarily mean that EVERY speaker from that particular brand is any good. Some brands that deserve honorable mention are: Morel, DLS, Focal, and (gulp) JBL.
As a hobby, regardless of wether I'm building a stereo system or not, I go to Audio Dealers and Manufacturers to listen to every speaker I can possibly listen to about twice per year. I always bring a set of tracks that I am VERY familiar with, that I have actually heard "Live". In 1999 when I was putting together my Durango, I made my rounds to listen, and Dynaudio was my first choice. They have a character that absolutely does not add any color to what you're listening to. You can hear the whole recording, and nothing but the recording. They also reveal more detail and texture in the music than anything else I had listened to. (At the time)
Now... EVERY time I suggest that a person go and listen to speakers before they buy, there are folks that repeat "Speakers never sound the same in the car as they do in a store" This is true. They don't sound exactly the same in their staging and imaging, but that's not what I'm listening for. If a speaker cannot present proper tonal response, attack and decay, linearity, etc... in a storefront environment, then how could I possibly like it in a car? If you HATE the speakers in the store, don't buy them. If they're your best choice in the store, odds are that they will be your best choice in the car. (I've had some experience with this over the years)
So... I can read your mind... You're thinking: "He chose Dynaudio in 1999, but would he choose Dynaudio again?" The answer isn't simple. I would choose the best speaker for the application, and since 1999 I've judged many audio systems, and listened to many store demo boards. Since building the Durango that you see in my pictures, I've done audio systems in three different vehicles (2 of them mine) and I chose a different brand for each project. The one car that did not belong to me had a budget limit, but we found a really nice compromise. Additionally, If I would choose ONE set of speakers from a particular brand, it does not necessarily mean that EVERY speaker from that particular brand is any good. Some brands that deserve honorable mention are: Morel, DLS, Focal, and (gulp) JBL.
2003 IASCA Amateur Street World Champion
2003 SLAP Amateur Street National Champion
Linear Power - Dynaudio - Sony - Scosche
My Little Truck
My Other Projects
#14
02-16-2009, 08:59 PM
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I believe the stock sub has a separate amplifier with a paired low voltage wiring from the headunit. I think you'd spend just as much to make a stock one work as you adding an aftermarket. The aftermarket will be more flexible as well, I don't believe you can tune or setup the stock sub/amp.
If you want the freq's you have, but more clearer and maybe a few more freqs then new door speakers would be the way to go. I haven't found many with names I recognize in the $500 range. However, you will want 3rd or 4th order crossovers, a high signal to noise ratio (I think 88-93 is pretty common) and I would look for the system to reach at least 20kHz and down to 100Hz or lower. I was originally looking at tweeters in the 32kHz range, but then I found out I can't hear much over 16kHz so they would only effect the hairs on my arms and neck. While nice for the shivering highs if you have a lossless source playing, a CD or FM or MP3 shouldn't have frequencies that high.
If you want the freq's you have, but more clearer and maybe a few more freqs then new door speakers would be the way to go. I haven't found many with names I recognize in the $500 range. However, you will want 3rd or 4th order crossovers, a high signal to noise ratio (I think 88-93 is pretty common) and I would look for the system to reach at least 20kHz and down to 100Hz or lower. I was originally looking at tweeters in the 32kHz range, but then I found out I can't hear much over 16kHz so they would only effect the hairs on my arms and neck. While nice for the shivering highs if you have a lossless source playing, a CD or FM or MP3 shouldn't have frequencies that high.
