Relay Question
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Senior User
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It aint the EEC, /Fuelpump relays
It aint the lower column ignition switch
It aint the Coil
It aint the Module
It aint the Stator.....
It aint the ignition tumbler lock, or the actuator..
What else?
Fuseable links? Would this prevent power going to my computer?
How many Fuseble links are
involved with the ignition process On a 1988 F150 5.0 EFI Lariat??
No Power to the Computer..... where does the power come from? the Bat,? the Ignition? is there fuseable links in between the computer and its power source????
It aint the lower column ignition switch
It aint the Coil
It aint the Module
It aint the Stator.....
It aint the ignition tumbler lock, or the actuator..
What else?
Fuseable links? Would this prevent power going to my computer?
How many Fuseble links are
involved with the ignition process On a 1988 F150 5.0 EFI Lariat??
No Power to the Computer..... where does the power come from? the Bat,? the Ignition? is there fuseable links in between the computer and its power source????
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From: Brampton, On. Can.
There is a Brown 18 gauge fusable link coming off the starter solenoid that feeds the Yellow wire at the EEC relay. There should be 4 fusable links at the solenoid, 1- 20ga Dark Blue, 1- 18ga Brown and 2- 16ga Black.
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Excellent ! - Thank you !, -
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Power to the EEC relay- (Yellow wire)
Power to the fuel pump relay-( black w/yellow stripe wire)
No other power from wires in those relay connectors.
With Ignition ON:
Very Dim power to red wire in EEC connector
Very Dim power to BOTH sides of 20 gauge fuseble link at relay connector.
NO power at COIL- either side.
VOLTAGE at either side of COIL reads 0.05 volts-
WITH POWER ON, or /POWER OFF
Checked power at Ignition control Module as directed through Haynes Manual
Key on-RUN and Key on- START...- 90% of battery voltage at #2,#3,#4 terminals during test indicated that Ignition control Module plug has good power to Ignition control Module.
Book say go find problem between Coil, and Ignition..
Where else can I look??
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From: Brampton, On. Can.
By the looks of it, you are not getting power between the ignition switch and the engine.
On the driverside inner fender, below the master cylinder, you will find a square 10 wire plug on the harness leading to the engine. There should be a White/Light Blue. That's the feed to the ICM, coil and EEC relay. It looks like there is a 20 gauge fusable link on the White/Light Blue wire, somewhere between the firewall plug and the 10 wire plug.
On the driverside inner fender, below the master cylinder, you will find a square 10 wire plug on the harness leading to the engine. There should be a White/Light Blue. That's the feed to the ICM, coil and EEC relay. It looks like there is a 20 gauge fusable link on the White/Light Blue wire, somewhere between the firewall plug and the 10 wire plug.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,557
Likes: 44
From: Concord, NC
You should have 12V on the white/blue wire on the EEC relay with the key on. Sportruk is right on it I believe -- the signal from the ignition switch to turn on the EEC relay is what is missing.
With the key in the "run" position and the relay unplugged, there should be 12V on two of the four wires in the EEC relay connector. You have 12V on the yellow, which is hot at all times. The white/blue wire that Sportruk mentioned should show 12V with the key in the run position. I incorrectly said that the EEC relay fed the ignition coil a while back, and this is not true after I looked at the wiring diagram. The coil, ignition module and EEC relay turn-on circuit are fed by the ignition switch.
The same goes for the fuel pump relay: relay out and key on, two of the four wires in the FP relay connector should have 12V. The yellow wire is fed by the ignition switch, and the red wire is fed from the output of the EEC relay. If the red wire does not have 12V, it also means the EEC relay is not energizing.
With the key in the "run" position and the relay unplugged, there should be 12V on two of the four wires in the EEC relay connector. You have 12V on the yellow, which is hot at all times. The white/blue wire that Sportruk mentioned should show 12V with the key in the run position. I incorrectly said that the EEC relay fed the ignition coil a while back, and this is not true after I looked at the wiring diagram. The coil, ignition module and EEC relay turn-on circuit are fed by the ignition switch.
The same goes for the fuel pump relay: relay out and key on, two of the four wires in the FP relay connector should have 12V. The yellow wire is fed by the ignition switch, and the red wire is fed from the output of the EEC relay. If the red wire does not have 12V, it also means the EEC relay is not energizing.
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By the looks of it, you are not getting power between the ignition switch and the engine.
On the driverside inner fender, below the master cylinder, you will find a square 10 wire plug on the harness leading to the engine. There should be a White/Light Blue. That's the feed to the ICM, coil and EEC relay. It looks like there is a 20 gauge fusable link on the White/Light Blue wire, somewhere between the firewall plug and the 10 wire plug.
On the driverside inner fender, below the master cylinder, you will find a square 10 wire plug on the harness leading to the engine. There should be a White/Light Blue. That's the feed to the ICM, coil and EEC relay. It looks like there is a 20 gauge fusable link on the White/Light Blue wire, somewhere between the firewall plug and the 10 wire plug.
If thats what your speakin of, I noticed that one a couple of days ago while I was checking my relays,- It seemed to me that it was sort of un-plugged, OR rather not connected well with the side locks not fully engaged- I tightened the plug.
I found the White w/ blue stripe at the coil, and again at the module plug at the distributor- my buddy and I couldnt figure out where it was going to, and believing it had to be the source of power to the coil-
Its in the Harness below the Brake Booster?- THANKS!
-I hope this fuseable link is the Problem, I'm runnin out of time here.
I'm gonna get this in the morning, -gotta thaw out for now.
-THANKS FOR THE HELP SPORTRUK !, I'm flyin w/ no clue on this electric stuff.
Hotshot
Joined: Sep 2001
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Posts: 318
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From: Brampton, On. Can.
The relays are mounted to the backside of the air filter box on the '87-'91. They don't have a power distribution/fuse box like the the '92-'96.
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Senior User
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You should have 12V on the white/blue wire on the EEC relay with the key on. Sportruk is right on it I believe -- the signal from the ignition switch to turn on the EEC relay is what is missing.
With the key in the "run" position and the relay unplugged, there should be 12V on two of the four wires in the EEC relay connector. You have 12V on the yellow, which is hot at all times. The white/blue wire that Sportruk mentioned should show 12V with the key in the run position. I incorrectly said that the EEC relay fed the ignition coil a while back, and this is not true after I looked at the wiring diagram. The coil, ignition module and EEC relay turn-on circuit are fed by the ignition switch.
The same goes for the fuel pump relay: relay out and key on, two of the four wires in the FP relay connector should have 12V. The yellow wire is fed by the ignition switch, and the red wire is fed from the output of the EEC relay. If the red wire does not have 12V, it also means the EEC relay is not energizing.
With the key in the "run" position and the relay unplugged, there should be 12V on two of the four wires in the EEC relay connector. You have 12V on the yellow, which is hot at all times. The white/blue wire that Sportruk mentioned should show 12V with the key in the run position. I incorrectly said that the EEC relay fed the ignition coil a while back, and this is not true after I looked at the wiring diagram. The coil, ignition module and EEC relay turn-on circuit are fed by the ignition switch.
The same goes for the fuel pump relay: relay out and key on, two of the four wires in the FP relay connector should have 12V. The yellow wire is fed by the ignition switch, and the red wire is fed from the output of the EEC relay. If the red wire does not have 12V, it also means the EEC relay is not energizing.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
By the looks of it, you are not getting power between the ignition switch and the engine.
On the driverside inner fender, below the master cylinder, you will find a square 10 wire plug on the harness leading to the engine. There should be a White/Light Blue. That's the feed to the ICM, coil and EEC relay. It looks like there is a 20 gauge fusable link on the White/Light Blue wire, somewhere between the firewall plug and the 10 wire plug.
On the driverside inner fender, below the master cylinder, you will find a square 10 wire plug on the harness leading to the engine. There should be a White/Light Blue. That's the feed to the ICM, coil and EEC relay. It looks like there is a 20 gauge fusable link on the White/Light Blue wire, somewhere between the firewall plug and the 10 wire plug.
Been out here all mornin tearin at this harness, and cant find a blasted Fusible Link to the White/blu stripe wire..
Tested the wire and the voltage was 0.46v from the big black plug on both sides-all the way to the Distributor...is this a normal Voltage?? does it sound like something is grounded out?
Got 3.06 volts at the red wire at the relays w/Key-"On"
..- Just out of curiosity,..-What would I be looking at if My Ignition Module on the Distributor was blown?...It IS Allegedly "New" and this ignition system-TFI -EECIV is known as a "Distributor Ignition"- so it says in the Haynes book..?
I dont know anymore at this point...
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 318
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From: Brampton, On. Can.
Don't be so hung up on actually finding the fusable link, just be aware that they might be there. Maybe it's on the otherside of the firewall. I'm just going by wiring diagrams. Just keep working back to the source, the ignition switch. Somewhere between the 10 wire plug and the firewall plug, the White/Light Blue wire changes to Red/Light Green, suppose to be the other side of the fusable link, where a Black/Pink is also tied in to it. Once the Red/Light Green goes through the firewall, it goes directly to the ignition switch on the lower steering column. Check for power at this point with the key in Run. If there is power there, your problem is somewhere in that wire. Also check all the large Yellow wires at the ignition switch, to ensure all have power from the battery.
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marragtop
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Jan 24, 2013 06:44 AM
