Hello. So as to continue my post from last week... I was having serious flooding issues, so...
I purchased a reman Holley carb, 2 barrel, and put it on my 74 f-100 360 truck.
I also replaced the fuel pump, just for yucks. My old carb had an electric choke, and the new carb did not have a prong for the wire harness. I noticed this after installation, and switched my old choke onto the new carb. Everthing runs fine now once the truck warms up, but previous to this it sputters while in drive on acceleration and dies. It is a bit hard to restart, have to press the pedal to the floor.I believe I still have a choke problem. I cant seem to get the choke adjusted correctly, and the cap that came new with the carb has a broken spring(don't ask). What is my best option? If I switch to a manual choke, what do I do with the wire for the electric choke, just leave it unattached? Any other options. I know some people run with no choke. What does this entail?
Thank you mightily.

 

Ask for a replacement on the broken choke.

All in all, it's better if you ask this in the fuel forums.

 

I'm not positive that you can transfer an electric choke from a Motorcraft carburetor to a Holley because the Motorcraft choke linkage is what grounds the choke. This may very well be the case for a Holley as well, but until someone verifies it, you cannot assume so. The Holley electric chokes I have seen have an external ground connection, so they expect you to ground it externally. Motorcraft chokes don't have this provision. If you want to use your Motorcraft choke on a Holley carburetor, you should check the resistance between the slotted lever which the choke tang slips in between, and the carburetor base. Rotate the choke linkage back and forth while you do this. If the meter reads zero ohms for all of this, then you can use your Motorcraft choke.

Could you please rephrase your post as I'm not totally clear on what problems existed before the carburetor swap, what problems went away, what stayed, what new problems came about, etc. I'm also not sure what you meant when you said the choke that came with your Holley carb had a broken spring, because you said it didn't come with an electric choke. What spring are you talking about then?

If you switch to a manual choke you can just leave the old choke wire unattached.

Lastly, you may have already seen this, but this article has some info about electric chokes that you may find useful: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...ml#post6939116

 

Thank you for the link, it is VERY helpful.
Sorry....I broke the cap that came with the reman carb by fiddling with it....it did not have a prong on it...just a solid black cap, so I now know it was an automatic choke.
My carb does not have a hot are tube hooked up....the metal line is non-existant. I had an enclosed air cleaner housing on the truck, but switched to an open type filter, so maybe my choke is not heating up properly?
My original problem was that the truck suddenly became hard to start after a gas fill up. It was flooded. After a couple of days it got worse and fuel would just pour out of the carb throat, so thats when I put on the new carb. I got it on with no problems, in fact it was deceptively simple. Then I started her up and tried to drive, but the engine had no power and stalled out on acceleration, and this is when I noticed the different choke caps( I'm a newbie at mechanics). I thought maybe this was my problem and switched caps. I actually switched the springs, putting the newer spring in my old cap. I guess I should not have gotten creative at that point. This seemed to help, but by then the truck was warmed sufficiently enough to drive well and fool me. So I started the truck last night and it was rough, had little power on acceleration and stalled out.Shifted poorly too. I parke it and checked tranny fluid, a little low so I topped it off, and then drove it down the rode. It drove perfectly. I've sprayed around the carb for vac leaks but could find none.
So I have a choke issue I guess. I may switch to a man. choke, but would rather set up an automatic choke, I have to order the part, no one carries them around here.
Any more thoughts? Again, I appreciate the help.

 

With the truck off, pull the air cleaner off and look down the throat of the carb. Pull back the throttle and you should see two streams of gas. As far as the choke goes, it needs to be closed when you start the motor cold, and open when the motor is at operating temperature. I'd also suggest checking your base timing with a timing light and verifying your vacuum advance is functioning, because not all acceleration problems are carb related. For example, did you transfer the vacuum line from the vacuum advance? Where is your PCV valve sourcing its vacuum from with your new configuration?

 

Sorry so tardy...I've been down with a very nasty sinus infection.
The timing was a few degrees off, so I adjusted it. Everything purrs once it is warmed up, but like I said, the hot air tube from the manifold is just gone.
I am running with no choke now, but would like to switch to either an all electric or a manual choke. A mechanic that I like told me that he has had a lot of trouble getting manual conversions to work properly. Any thoughts on this?
I found an all electric conversion that NAPA will order for me, but I need to know which one to get, the one with internal vac versus external vac. So this is my stupid question of the day, how do I tell? I assume it is external vac, but assuming usually gets me nowhere. It is a Holley reman 2barrel carb bolt on replacement for my old motorcraft...74 f-100 360 2wheel drive.
This leads me to an off topic query...I read a lot of post that seem slightly down on the 360 engine. Why is this? I really do not know, as I am just learning all of this stuff, Thank you.

 

Hopefully someone with a 2300 can chime in as far as the vacuum source because I'm not sure on that one. It's internal on the Motorcraft 2100's, though, if that helps any. There isn't anything wrong with manual chokes. As far as what the choke physically does to the carburetor, the same stuff happens for auto or manual. The only difference is with a manual choke, you are the one opening and closing the choke, instead of a spring that heats up. Manual chokes are easier to control because you can open and close them at your discretion, but they're also a pain to remember to open up after your motor warms up. This leads to rough running, fouled plugs and bad gas mileage.