A couple of days ago I put a fuel tank switch in the dash. Since I had to remove the lower trim panel I had to take the wiper switch **** and the headlight switch **** off. I pushed the button and pulled the headlight switch stem out, got everything done and put it all back together. When I put the headlight switch stem back in I had a problem. Pull out to the parking light position and get nothing. Out to the headlight position, headlights but nothing else. Push in slightly and get tail, marker, and dash lights. I thought the switch was bad so I bought another one, installed it and got the exact same results. I'm baffled.
When I changed the fuel tank switch All I did was remove the stem from the headlight switch not the switch itself, no need to. Any ideas ?
You folks have been very helpful in the past and I appreciate it.

 

Check the switch electrical connector for burned areas.....

 

No signs of heat or burns... Had no problems at all til I pulled the stem out and put it back in ???

 

Are you sure it went back in right and all the way in?

From what you are describing, the problem is with the switch somehow.

 

That's what I thought too Dave. I replaced the switch and got the same problem. I guess it could be I got a bad switch from O'reilley's. It wouldn't be the first time someone got a bad new part. My next step is to take it back for another one. It has a lifetime warranty... apparently they weren't expecting me to live very long...lol.

 

I will spend more money on any part I get from mne with a lifetime warranty.

I am had on starters and alternators, and am ahead of the game on both several hundred dollars.

Yes I paid a premium price for the first one, but as soon as I had to replace it, I was ahead.
Second time, money in the bank.


Since moving the **** in and out turns the lights on, it sure sounds like a switch problem to me.
Sounds like the detents are not exactly where they should be to make the connections it should be making.

What don't make sense is the original going bad the same way.

 

I agree dave. Arrears to be a short in the connector. I got a new switch and it clicked into place and has the two positions it should have. All the way out I get headlights, but still nothing else. Now I can't get dash, marker, or tail lights. Upon closer inspection under better light I did find signs of heat at the lower center plug on the connector. Some browning around that plug and a bubble between that one and the one to the front of the truck from it. Checked the tail & instrument fuse, it looked good but I replaced it anyway. O'rielley's doesn't sell the connector, don't know if anyone else does or not. I could go to insulated spade connectors if I have to.

 

The weird part of it is I had absolutely no problems with lights until I pulled the stem out of the switch.

 

The story continues... Today I got some female spade connectors and cut off the origional connector with the burnt and bubbled spots on it. I wrote down the colors and locations of the wires on the connector first. After reconnecting the wires I just knew I had solved the problem with the bad connector, but noooooooo.... Still have the same problem I started out with. Parking ligt position, nothing at all. Headlight position, headlights only. Push in slightly and get all lights. When I get all lights the tach drops about 200 RPM and comes back up if you turn down the dash lights. It's still not right, but at least I can get tail lights so I can drive in the dark. Marker and tail lights flicker and go on and off when you wiggle the headlight **** when they're on.
I don't know if the stem is catching on everything it should or not. I've taken it out and turned it, getting better results turned some ways than others. When pulling out the **** the switch doesn't feel right. Instead of two distinct positions (it has those) it also pulls out about a 1/4" past what should be the headlight stop. This is a Borg Warner switch from Oreilly's. This is the second new switch I've put on. When I had the last switch off I put the stem in it and it had the two distinct stops with no excess past the headlights... I'm losing hair from scratching my head...lol.
Anybody have any ideas ? I'm lost...

 

Try an oem switch?

 

i'm not an electrical type person but it almost sounds like to me that there's a grounding problem that the switch is not making good ground somewhere and the current is trying to jump to ground. that's the only reason i could think that the tach would move around. that might be totally goofy, but best shot in the dark (no pun intended) i've got for you.

speedrdr

 

I think there is more than one issue.

Headlight switch is one.

Insturment cluster ground is the other one.

You have to pull the cluster to get to the cluster connector, probably be OK after you remove and reinstall it.

 

Thanks guys. I did call Ford and they said they didn't have a switch for something that old ('87). I went to Car Quest and got a pigtail connector for the headlight switch, cut off the spade connectors I put on yesterday and put the new connector on. Same situation. I agree it sounds like a ground problem.
Dave, how big a project is it to pull the cluster to get to that plug ? This is my only daily driver so I hope it's a fairly quick task, don't want to miss work you know. After checking and reconnecting that plug I'll get another switch and try that. I believe I could change it blindfolded after taking it in and out so much...lol
I don't suppose there's any way to get to the cluster connector from underneath...

 

depends on whether you're a 1) a contortionist and 2) you've got hands the size of a first grade pencil. too much stuff in the way to get to if you've got average size hands. i manufactured some new words when i was trying to get the speedo cable loose on mine and that's not even that deep in the cluster.
speedrdr

 

Does your truck have dash vents?

If it does, forget it.

Wait yours is 87, not sure how much changed.

On the 86, remove the dash pad.
Now remove the cluster bezel.....give you another chance to mess the headlight switch up right.

Now unbolt the cluster, like four screws.
As you wiggle the cluster out, you may have to feed it some speedo cable through the firewall.
When the panel is out about 4" you can reach your hand down behind the right side of the cluster and remove the plug.
To get the cluster all the way out you have to unhook the speedo cable, but you should not have to come out that far.

Plug it back in, screw it back together, put the bezel back on, install the headlight switch shaft the right way this time and see it it works right.