how high can i get ?
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Joined: Nov 2008
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how high can i get ?
how high can i make a body lift on my 84 f250 standard cab without having to make steering modifications and such ..body lift not suspension lift. i only want a 2 or 3 incher
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
2" stretched my parking brake cable tight enough I modified the frame bracket to make it looser.
Also had to modify the transfer case shifter to shift into 2HI.
Trim or move the fan shroud down 2" for fan clearance.
And that will also put the main transmission close to the seat if you have a stock bench seat.
Since I have a flatbed, I never messed with the bed part.
After you get the cab up and bolted down, shake the steering column at the slide (close to the rag joint), make sure it is still together enough to be solid.
Also had to modify the transfer case shifter to shift into 2HI.
Trim or move the fan shroud down 2" for fan clearance.
And that will also put the main transmission close to the seat if you have a stock bench seat.
Since I have a flatbed, I never messed with the bed part.
After you get the cab up and bolted down, shake the steering column at the slide (close to the rag joint), make sure it is still together enough to be solid.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Yes.
When you do it, loosen all 6 can mounting bolts, leave the nuts on the bolts.
Now take the nuts off of all the bolts on one side, jack the cab up and install the blocks and bolts on that side, reinstall the nuts finger tight.
Now you can do the other side same way.
Doing this keeps the cab on the frame in the correct location while jacking.
I saw someone remove all the bolts, not a nice sight when the cab slid sideways.
The tighten all the bolts down.
The radiator support mounts will fall apart when you remove them, so new ones are needed before you try to take them apart.
The brake lines are plenty long enough with the coil in both lines, but do watch then as you jack so they don't kink.
Everything else was plenty long except the parking brake cable on mine.
When you do it, loosen all 6 can mounting bolts, leave the nuts on the bolts.
Now take the nuts off of all the bolts on one side, jack the cab up and install the blocks and bolts on that side, reinstall the nuts finger tight.
Now you can do the other side same way.
Doing this keeps the cab on the frame in the correct location while jacking.
I saw someone remove all the bolts, not a nice sight when the cab slid sideways.
The tighten all the bolts down.
The radiator support mounts will fall apart when you remove them, so new ones are needed before you try to take them apart.
The brake lines are plenty long enough with the coil in both lines, but do watch then as you jack so they don't kink.
Everything else was plenty long except the parking brake cable on mine.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 368
Likes: 0
From: s.e. wisconsin
you may want to look into the legalety in your state also i know in wi you can only have up to a 3" body lift
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 247
Likes: 1
From: KY
I would recommend that you stay with 2" or less. I had all kinds of problems with my 3" kit. I was told before I bought my kit to stay with a 2" or below because of the problems so when I ordered a kit I ordered the 2" but when it arrived it was actually a 3" kit, so I just figured I would make it work. Well it was a pain, because I had to cut and extend my shifter on top of the transmission and the shifter for the transfer case, because it wouldn't go back into 2wd. Also I had to lengthen the filler neck for the front fuel tank but not the back. with a 3 inch lift the ground straps were also stretched to the max. The lower radiator hose had to me made because it would no longer fit and of course on my truck which is a 90, I had to bend the bottom of the cab so that the engine would not hit after I put the 7.3l diesel into it. There were probably other things, but I can't really remember them right now.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
From: Ortonville, MN
slightly OT, but if i were to cut new longer shackles out of 1/4 or 1/2 " steel to get a 2-4 inch suspension lift, i wouldnt really have to change much if anything would I, maybe the shocks, but i dont think anything else...never dones a lift before
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 247
Likes: 1
From: KY
chubyboy,
If it is a f250 with the ifs front end, you are going to have to make or buy pivot drop brackets for the front axle if you want to go that route. The brackets run about $160 if you want to buy them.
If it is a f250 with the ifs front end, you are going to have to make or buy pivot drop brackets for the front axle if you want to go that route. The brackets run about $160 if you want to buy them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
As picky as the IFS axles are about alignment, I think if I were doing a suspension lift on one it would be with a factory kit.
Actually if I were going to lift one, a solid front axle swap would be my first move.
Second move, shackle reversal on the front axle, shackle flip on the rear axle.
Actually if I were going to lift one, a solid front axle swap would be my first move.
Second move, shackle reversal on the front axle, shackle flip on the rear axle.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I have air bags on my front axle for the snow plow.
Firestone Ride Rites.
While it was on the alignment rack we played with the air bags.
10 PSI raised the front bumper 1" and the camber was out of spec farther than they had a bushing to correct.
Also the problem multiplied when you turned the wheels, then everything was out of spec.
So I had it set with 5 PSI in the bags which sat almost back down where it did with no bags, and just added air when the plow was on.
Now with the 60 I can put what ever I want in the bags and everything is cool.
Firestone Ride Rites.
While it was on the alignment rack we played with the air bags.
10 PSI raised the front bumper 1" and the camber was out of spec farther than they had a bushing to correct.
Also the problem multiplied when you turned the wheels, then everything was out of spec.
So I had it set with 5 PSI in the bags which sat almost back down where it did with no bags, and just added air when the plow was on.
Now with the 60 I can put what ever I want in the bags and everything is cool.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 3,255
Likes: 0
From: Sweet Home, OR
As picky as the IFS axles are about alignment, I think if I were doing a suspension lift on one it would be with a factory kit.
Actually if I were going to lift one, a solid front axle swap would be my first move.
Second move, shackle reversal on the front axle, shackle flip on the rear axle.
Actually if I were going to lift one, a solid front axle swap would be my first move.
Second move, shackle reversal on the front axle, shackle flip on the rear axle.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 641
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton AB
I lifted my 91 F-250 with the I beam front end. It was a Nightmare. Put a solid axle in it is way cheaper and easier in the long run.
I did the Rancho 4". Drilling the mounting Brackets is hell. There is very little room to get a drill in there straight. The whole thing is hell. Then after the fact you have to get an alignment done and you can expect a big bill on that, about $300.
I did the Rancho 4". Drilling the mounting Brackets is hell. There is very little room to get a drill in there straight. The whole thing is hell. Then after the fact you have to get an alignment done and you can expect a big bill on that, about $300.