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Old Feb 8, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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Need some Direction, no fire.

1988 f150 lariat 4x4 5.0 EFI

I lost power on this truck last week comin home,- motor just stopped and I rolled to a stop.
The motor will crank over.
But - I have no spark.
Nothing coming from the distributor-( spark plug wires)
OR the Coil- Checked them both in the beginning with the screwdriver-arch against some metal.- then I replaced both- new distributor w/ module, and just today with the new coil- The Motor will crank, and crank, and crank, but no fire.
Where is the power coming from to fire the Coil???
Need some Direction,- anyone help?
 
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Old Feb 8, 2009 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by quisp-n-quake
1988 f150 lariat 4x4 5.0 EFI

I lost power on this truck last week comin home,- motor just stopped and I rolled to a stop.
The motor will crank over.
But - I have no spark.
Nothing coming from the distributor-( spark plug wires)
OR the Coil- Checked them both in the beginning with the screwdriver-arch against some metal.- then I replaced both- new distributor w/ module, and just today with the new coil- The Motor will crank, and crank, and crank, but no fire.
Where is the power coming from to fire the Coil???
Need some Direction,- anyone help?
Thanks anyway..its been a slice of heaven.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2009 | 08:15 PM
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Pull the codes from the computer.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Pull the codes from the computer.
Ok, I tried to do that- , but this time when I turned the key and waited for the sounds of the relays/fuelpump noises, -There was nothing- no sounds. I did however get lights on the dash, including the check engine light which would give off the flashes- BUT it just stayed on, no blinks, no flash. what does that sound like 2u??
 
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by quisp-n-quake
Ok, I tried to do that- , but this time when I turned the key and waited for the sounds of the relays/fuelpump noises, -There was nothing- no sounds. I did however get lights on the dash, including the check engine light which would give off the flashes- BUT it just stayed on, no blinks, no flash. what does that sound like 2u??
Went back out there, on a double check
used the info from Fordfuelinjection.com-paperclip from SIG-RTN to SELF-TEST IN -turned the key, all lights on dash go on, no sounds, no blinks, no flash from check engine light. all lights stay on.
Is there a way to test EEC relay?
Could this be connected to ignition switch on lower steering column? would this prevent anything? motor will still crank, yet no spark to coil/dist.
Help
 
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 01:00 PM
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Anyone heard of a "Multi switch"? located on the lower steering column?
does the ignition tie into this?
 
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Old Feb 9, 2009 | 06:00 PM
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The multifunction switch is Ford's name for the turnsignal switch. It has the high-low beam switch, the wiper switch, and the hazard made into it. I would not think this would be part of the problem.

I think your suggestion of the EEC relay might be a better spot to look. I don't have detailed diagrams of your truck, but it should be in a bank of relays with the fuel pump relay and a few others. Here's somewhat of a diagram that may help.

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800a3a44.gif
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
The multifunction switch is Ford's name for the turnsignal switch. It has the high-low beam switch, the wiper switch, and the hazard made into it. I would not think this would be part of the problem.

I think your suggestion of the EEC relay might be a better spot to look. I don't have detailed diagrams of your truck, but it should be in a bank of relays with the fuel pump relay and a few others. Here's somewhat of a diagram that may help.

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800a3a44.gif
I see that now, -the multiswitch. I'm not getting power to those relays- something between the Key- and the relays has failed.
My Ignition actuator collapsed upon turning the key, I'm able to drop the tilt column at the steering column to its lowest point, and insert a screwdriver down inside, and behind the pot-metal actuator, and nudge it forward for the engine to crank.- I was having some bad feelings about the way the ignition was turning throughout this whole ordeal- now its finally failed-
I read into this ignition a bit on a motorcraft site I stumbled upon, and I think that what I was trying to referre the name of the switch that the ignition actuator touched on ignition-( I didnt mean the Multiswitch, it sounded like something other than a turnswitch i guess)
-- The switch on the steering column way down below, the motorcraft site indicated that if this actuator ignition switch failed, that the motor would turn-(Crank), but not start.- which is whats happening.
Being my Ignition Key lock-tumbler was acting up, (grinding,loose, wouldnt turn smoothly at times-) would have been an idicator of these parts of the ignition system beginning to fail..?? just a thought. -The engine just died and the truck rolled to a stop, and I cranked it until I heard the battery begin to get tired- EFI's usually crank and start within 5 seconds.
- I'm not a whizz with Electrical, and been electrocuted enough to hold that statement high and proud.
So...
I hope mostly that my problems lie in the form of replacing a switch, or a component, and try to avoid sticking sharp probe like metal things into live plugs.
I found the relays for the EEC - I just dont understand why theres no power going to them- tried to pull the codes- It wouldnt go that far,
lights just lit up the dash- there has to be something in between the key and that system that has failed..??
 
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Old Feb 10, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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It may be the famous pot metal piece in the column has broken. They all seem to do it eventually. It's #14 in the diagram below, and the dealer keeps a truckload in stock.

 
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
It may be the famous pot metal piece in the column has broken. They all seem to do it eventually. It's #14 in the diagram below, and the dealer keeps a truckload in stock.

OK, found that, yep..its broke.
However, I found that I can push the rod its attached to by hand and crank over the motor..
Could a Broken Actuator still cease power between the key and Distributor?
I'm trying to trace backward the power that leads to the distributor/ coil
Relays? EEC and Fuel pumps...
Confused, need to know where this power is coming from, or rather lack of power...
This Duraspark system is for the birds.
 
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 03:04 PM
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IF my EEC relay went, what would my motor do when I turned the key??
If my Fuel pump relay went, What would my motor do when I turned the key??

would these both crap out at the same time???
 
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Old Feb 11, 2009 | 06:51 PM
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If you look at this diagram, up in the top left corner, you will see power for the EEC relay comes directly from the ignition switch.

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/g...3d800a3a44.gif
 
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
If you look at this diagram, up in the top left corner, you will see power for the EEC relay comes directly from the ignition switch.

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large
/0900823d800a3a44.gif
Yes, I see that..And...I also noticed that the Ignition is wired into the oxygen sensor as well, and then as a ground from there.-if I had a bad O2 sensor, would it interfere with power to the EEC relay??????

I know I'm grasping at straws at this point- I had a buddy of mine out there with me today, and we were both scratchin our heads on this one..
I'm lost. I replaced the relays today-( EEC, and Fuel pump,) and the ignition switch on the lower column- still nothing .
 
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Old Feb 12, 2009 | 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
If you look at this diagram, up in the top left corner, you will see power for the EEC relay comes directly from the ignition switch.

http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large
/0900823d800a3a44.gif
Yes, I see that..And...I also noticed that the Ignition is wired into the oxygen sensor as well, and then as a ground from there.-if I had a bad O2 sensor, would it interfere with power to the EEC relay??????

I know I'm grasping at straws at this point- I had a buddy of mine out there with me today, and we were both scratchin our heads on this one..
I'm lost. I replaced the relays today-( EEC, and Fuel pump,) and the ignition switch on the lower column- still nothing,
 
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Old Feb 13, 2009 | 04:26 PM
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The power to the oxygen sensor is just for the heater in the sensor. If it was shorted, then that would knock out some fusible links, and may kill everything, but to check for that, you need a testlight or voltmeter and start to poke around for voltage. I would see of you have voltage at the eec relay from the keyswitch.
 
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