Cheap(er) power...
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From: Ortonville, MN
Cheap(er) power...
A little background, i am buying a 1989 F250 4x4 with a IDI 7.3(non turbo). It has a five speed tranny and 8 bolt full floating axles. Basically what i am asking is what all i can do to it for either little or preferably no money that will increase its power noticably. According to Diesel Power magazine, the key to making more power in a diesel engine is to dump in more fuel(whereas for gassers, its more air). I had the thought of just turning up the pump but i am learning more daily about how much EGTs can affect and or damage the engine. So its almost like its impossible...I am just getting into diesels really, i have a Class A and drive semis but there i had never had to really worry about getting more power. Another question i have is that, can i use the coolant temp sensor to gauge how much load is on the engine, in place of a pyrometer? I know on semis you can judge if your working the engine too hard bc the water temp will increase along with the EGTs. I have a lot of questions, and instead of doing a threadjack, i just started one of my own. So really, what am i up against and what can i do bc the supposedly factory rating of 180 HP and idk know how much torque(couldnt find it...ANYWHERE! ) seems pretty weak for a diesel...especially one with this kind of displacement.
So please help...anyone lol. And im sorry for the long post...
So please help...anyone lol. And im sorry for the long post...
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Southern Oregon USA
With the NA engine, the amount of fuel you can feed it is limited by the amount air available. You need more of both to make more power. Excess fuel will just go to waste out of the tailpipe without the air to go with it.
Some cheap mods would be to remove the soup bowl in the air cleaner housing. Another popular mod is a cold air induction setup. The only catch is that you need to build it yourself. Several here have done this and can tell you how it's done.
Before you do any tweaking on the IP, you will want a pyrometer. Then there won't be any guessing by the water temp. The water temperature may be slow to react and you could be causing damage before you realize.
Ultimately, a turbo will be the biggest performance mod you can do. With a load, the IDI will seem pretty weak compared to most other diesels with them.
At least with a load.
I think the factory torque rating for the 7.3 was 380-390 ft lbs.
Jason
Some cheap mods would be to remove the soup bowl in the air cleaner housing. Another popular mod is a cold air induction setup. The only catch is that you need to build it yourself. Several here have done this and can tell you how it's done.
Before you do any tweaking on the IP, you will want a pyrometer. Then there won't be any guessing by the water temp. The water temperature may be slow to react and you could be causing damage before you realize.
Ultimately, a turbo will be the biggest performance mod you can do. With a load, the IDI will seem pretty weak compared to most other diesels with them.
At least with a load.
I think the factory torque rating for the 7.3 was 380-390 ft lbs.
Jason
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invest in a pyro! make a ram air intake cut out the soup bowl, make a free flowing exaust, and turn up the pump a little and advance the timing maybe a hair, now next question, what kinda shape is the injectors and injection pump in?
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From: Ortonville, MN
i had been thinking about a ram air system, easy to make.... i believe he said the injectors and lines were done just a couple years ago. .. as for exhaust, IMHO the cureent one, while newer is way too quiet i crouched by the tailpipe and heard the engine from in front better than the exhaust. i am thinking about putting the exhaust off the gasser i have now on this, bc is sounds pretty good n the gasser, so it should sound just as good if not better here. the mufflers are straight flow through tube type so they should be ok.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Size?
You can really use a three inch pipe for exhaust.
It has to start where both downpipes dump into the three inch pipe, not behind the Y pipe at the factory end.
On a NA motor, the exhaust can get very loud when straight piped and will have a very loud jake brake rap above 2100 RPM on deceleration.
As for fuel levels, once you start seeing black smoke out the exhaust, you have reached the max amount of fuel you have air to burn.
So more fuel is just dollars going out the tail pipe.
Diesels need air, which is why turbos work so well on them.
My formula for more power starts with more air, then add more fuel.
So anything to get more air in and out of the engine is a step in the right direction.
You can really use a three inch pipe for exhaust.
It has to start where both downpipes dump into the three inch pipe, not behind the Y pipe at the factory end.
On a NA motor, the exhaust can get very loud when straight piped and will have a very loud jake brake rap above 2100 RPM on deceleration.
As for fuel levels, once you start seeing black smoke out the exhaust, you have reached the max amount of fuel you have air to burn.
So more fuel is just dollars going out the tail pipe.
Diesels need air, which is why turbos work so well on them.
My formula for more power starts with more air, then add more fuel.
So anything to get more air in and out of the engine is a step in the right direction.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
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One thing to keep in mind is that diesels make soot, which will eventually plug up a muffler designed for a gasoline application and filled with glass-fiber material as a sound deadener. I believe this is what the stock muffler is, and it is also why it flows so bad after a few years of operation. Diesels require a straight-through muffler, or one that only has baffles but no glass-fiber material in it, so the mufflers that are now in your Chevy truck may not be a good choice. True dual 2.5" piping with 3" stacks would be pretty nice tho, however have fun getting around that mid-ship fuel tank.
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From: Ortonville, MN
hmmm...if i didnt want the range...i would remove it lol but since it works, im sure if nothing else could run it into the bed and across the d\bed floor...but we will see i havent paid or picked up the truck yet, im slated to do it this week...
then fun begins...but i dont plan on doing too much until spring...MN winters are not the most friendly for crawling around in your yard.
then fun begins...but i dont plan on doing too much until spring...MN winters are not the most friendly for crawling around in your yard.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
With the mid ship tank, your only option is run down the passenger side then up in the bed and across.
Not enough room to get between the tank and bed floor with the fuel lines and gauge wiring up there on top of the tank.
If you do go that route, make sure you protect the pipes from things sliding or blowing against them.
The get rather hot and I have seen several tool cases, lunch boxes and water coolers ruined that way.
Not enough room to get between the tank and bed floor with the fuel lines and gauge wiring up there on top of the tank.
If you do go that route, make sure you protect the pipes from things sliding or blowing against them.
The get rather hot and I have seen several tool cases, lunch boxes and water coolers ruined that way.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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He can also run the exhaust on the outside of the frame rails, if he brings the pipes sideways off the manifolds then bend them straight back till they reach the front edge of the bed, then bend straight up and into the stacks. There ain't absolutely nothing on the outside of the frame rails to interfere with that setup, but running the driver-side pipe around the front drive shaft will be interesting.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
Still going to ba a bend from ....
The drivers side outlet points straight down and the manifold goes below the top of the frame, so that is out.
Leaf spring below the frame, so it is going to have to sit low under the leaf spring.
I do to much off road, not a good routing option in my opinion.
Might be OK if the truck stays on the road though.
The drivers side outlet points straight down and the manifold goes below the top of the frame, so that is out.
Leaf spring below the frame, so it is going to have to sit low under the leaf spring.
I do to much off road, not a good routing option in my opinion.
Might be OK if the truck stays on the road though.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,083
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From: Fitzpatrick Alabama
The best way I've ever seen it done was two pipes out of the engine, down one side, through the bed, and then build a 4" by 4" metal box the length of the bed, run two pipes into the bottom, two stacks out the top, one on each side, this way the box acts as a muffler , plus gets you around the tank. I sat a tool box just behind mine and got me a piece of diamond plate and cut holes in it where the pipes are, that with make them and the diamond plate tool box look like one piece.