Ok I got my Lows doing pretty good and now im looking for better Highs. I was wondering if I can just add tweeters or if I should go with full component speakers

My current setup is
Alpine cda-9883 headunit
Pioneer TS series speakers (6.5" fronts and 6x8" rears)
Hifonics txi1508d amp
12" kicker L7 sub
Power acoustic 3 farad cap (temp until Optima yellow and HO alt)
4 gauge wiring

If I just add tweeters how would I hook them up?
If I go with component speakers how do I hook up the crossovers and stuff?

Ive played with my Alpine and set the "Hz" from 0 to 80 to 100 and 160. The higher I go the better the highs but then I have barely any bass.

MY friend has a very nice Pioneer headunit with Kicker components(running off headunit) and 2 kicker cvr15s and he has amazing Highs and Lows. His Pioneer is VERY adjustable with Highs/Lows and things and was thinking about just upgrading to a really nice Pioneer.

Im not really sure what I should do.

 

Some back ground information. Human hearing is 20Hz through 20,000Hz (20kHz) and the Human voice is centered around 1,000Hz.

Tweeters produce above 1000Hz. Your sub woofers should produce 100Hz and below (although you can go above this to suit your taste.) Mid range covers between the tweeters and the subwoofers.

I don't think tweeters are going to do what you need.

 

Definitely go for the 6 1/2 components, I did and am very pleased with the results.

That alpine deck is fine it's a good unit.

Delete the rears or run them off the deck itself and amp the front components I used a 150 watt x 2 to keep it clean. I find I just leave my rears off now.

I see the woofer mount is nice and high in the door on those so I would mount the tweeters in the pillar against the windshield bouncing sound towards the opposite seats. (I wish I had done this as mine are in the sail panel but they still sound great)


I went with a used focal set and the highs are amazing and bright: Access A1 $100.00 used and about $240.00 new.

Now the tweeter (and everything else) in these are much better but the price was way too high for me.
Focal 165 K2P - Focal 6.5" PolyKevlar Power Components

Crossover no higher than 80 to the components. The lower the better as bass becomes directional after about 60hz. My focals run down to 65 hz for example so 75 would be perfect for overlap of the slope. Leave the high pass filter off (amp or headunit) if it's higher than 80.

Use dynamat on doors and mount speakers professionally, it makes a big difference, small speakers can hit hard.
Happy Rockin!

 

Right now im wanting to go with,
1st. Pioneer 5900 headunit. (7-band equalizer)
2nd. Kicker DS600.2 component 6.5" Fronts.
3rd. Kicker DS680.2 component 6x8" Rears.

Then later on down the road add a Hifonics zxi4408 4 channel amp for my Speakers.(RMS Power @ 4-Ohm: 55W x 4)

 

If the component or aftermarket front speakers are not hooked to an amplifier, that may be your issue. I would put an amp at the top of the list, since you already have everything else in aftermarket. Since you have other speakers selected, pick an amp to power those and try what you already have with it. You may decide that it sounds good enough without buying new speakers.

 

I would try this first

1: Keep the Alpine head unit it's not the problem, check all the settings.

2:Invest in a GOOD set of components or coax and an amp (or at least the amp as reax says)
your bass is probably drowning out your highs. I don't know about kicker but my focal speakers pound so hard you can feel air move.

3: Delete the rears they are not needed.

just my 2cents... goodluck and tell us how it goes.

 

So the Alpine not having a equalizer doesn't have anything to do with bad highs?
What would you recommend as "GOOD" component speakers? Why delete the rears? Are just 2 6.5" door speakers going to be enough?

Only reason I was wanting the Kickers is because My buddy has them in his durango with 2 15s and they still sound great.


Thanks

 

No one can answer this question for you. The only valid advice that anyone can give you is "Go and listen". Your personal taste (and your goals for the sound) will be different from anyone else, so if someone suggests a brand here, it can only be what THEY like, not necessarily what YOU would like.

As a hobby, regardless of wether I'm building a stereo system or not, I go to Audio Dealers and Manufacturers to listen to every speaker I can possibly listen to about twice per year. I always bring a set of tracks that I am VERY familiar with, that I have actually heard "Live". In 1999 when I was putting together my Durango, I made my rounds to listen, and Dynaudio was my first choice. They have a character that absolutely does not add any color to what you're listening to. You can hear the whole recording, and nothing but the recording. They also reveal more detail and texture in the music than anything else I had listened to. (At the time)

Now... EVERY time I suggest that a person go and listen to speakers before they buy, there are folks that repeat "Speakers never sound the same in the car as they do in a store" This is true. They don't sound exactly the same in their staging and imaging, but that's not what I'm listening for. If a speaker cannot present proper tonal response, attack and decay, linearity, etc... in a storefront environment, then how could I possibly like it in a car? If you HATE the speakers in the store, don't buy them. If they're your best choice in the store, odds are that they will be your best choice in the car. (I've had some experience with this over the years)

So... I can read your mind... You're thinking: "He chose Dynaudio in 1999, but would he choose Dynaudio again?" The answer isn't simple. I would choose the best speaker for the application, and since 1999 I've judged many audio systems, and listened to many store demo boards. Since building the Durango that you see in my pictures, I've done audio systems in three different vehicles (2 of them mine) and I chose a different brand for each project. The one car that did not belong to me had a budget limit, but we found a really nice compromise. Additionally, If I would choose ONE set of speakers from a particular brand, it does not necessarily mean that EVERY speaker from that particular brand is any good. Some brands that deserve honorable mention are: Morel, DLS, Focal, and (gulp) JBL.


Humans hear most musical information best from the front, so you will likely always have the fader adjusted so that the front speakers have more output.

Humans are challenged with very poor high frequency hearing from the rear, which is why all human hearing from the rear has very defined directional distinction. Your ears actually block the sound, (They're called "pinna") and everything behind you is mono. This is why it is such a waste (in a car) to have speakers behind you at all, because you simply cannot appreciate them. This is a genetic "left-over" from human's "hunter-gatherer" days. (If an animal approaches you from behind, you can actually judge how far away it is, and which side it is on, but you cannot hear music correctly. This is a defense mechanism.)


Now you're on track with this thought. You liked these speakers, so you're on your way to finding what fits your taste.


-Bill
2003 IASCA Amateur Street World Champion
2003 SLAP Amateur Street National Champion
Linear Power - Dynaudio - Sony - Scosche
My Little Truck
My Other Projects

 

Its a regular cab truck though so the "rears" are right beside me. Still need to delete the rears? If I keep the rears should I go with the 6x8s or go with 6.5" or 5.25" for even better highs? Planning on going with the Kicker KS series components.

 

I believe it's one of the constant changing issues with **** sound quality bugs. Originally, the audiophiles said minimal rear fill, last I heard, rear fill was out completely.

My take on it is, the fronts are what you listen too and should get the best treatment. I wouldn't delete the rears, but I wouldn't power them with an amp or replace the stock ones unless they were broke.

 

Try it without rears just for kicks you may be surprised and defiantly go with round speakers always!

You can always put rears in later and you may decide you want a small sub type speaker there to help blend the lows in instead of duplicate midrange.

A three way system like this would be great I think.
Focal 165A3 - Focal 6.5" + 4" Access 3-Way Component Speakers

BTW not pushing Focal I am just very happy with mine they pound harder than I thought they could lol...

 

Yea ill go ahead and delete the rears for now and see how I like it. Im going to go with the Kicker KS 6.5"s They sound good to me and are in my price range. Later on if I need to ill add another set of the 6.5" kicker components to the rear with a 6x8" to 6.5" adapter.

 

First before throwing money at your problem, have you actually adjusted the Treble settings?

Setting the Treble Control

You can change the Treble Frequency emphasis to create your own
tonal preference.

1

Press A.SEL to select the TREBLE (Treble Center
Frequency) control mode.

BASS TREBLE HPF BASS

2

-1 Press BAND to select the desired treble center
frequency.

10.0 kHz -> 12.5 kHz -> 15.0 kHz -> 17.5 kHz -> 10.0 kHz

Emphasizes the displayed treble frequency ranges.

2

-2*Turn the Rotary encoder to select the desired
treble level (–7~+7).

You can emphasize or weaken the treble level.

3

return to normal mode.

•

If no operation is performed for 15 seconds, the unit will return to
normal mode automatically.

•

The treble level settings will be individually memorized for each
source (FM, AM, CD, etc.) until the setting is changed. The Treble
frequency settings adjusted for one source are effective for all other
sources (FM, AM, CD, etc.).

•

Depending on the connected devices, some functions and display
indications do not work. However, Treble Level is still adjustable if
an audio processor with the Treble function is connected.

•

The function is inoperable when DEFEAT is set to ON.

*

The adjustment can also be made by pressing Rotary encoder
(AUDIO). Refer to “Adjusting Bass/Treble/Balance (Between Left

and Right)/Fader (Between Front and Rear)/Defeat” (page 14).

 

Yes Don I have.

Can I run the 2 Kicker KS component speakers off a 400.1 Kicker mono amp?
I have it from my old setup and would like to make use of it and save $170 with not having to buy a new amp for highs.

The Kicker KS components 75rms a piece so 150rms.
The amp is 400rms(485 on birthsheet) x1 at 2ohms.
So would that make it 200rms at 4 ohms?
If I can run this amp with my speakers would I wire them just like 2 subs running a 4 ohm load or is it different with speakers?

 

I am Guessing you mean a ZX400.1? If so No you can't use it for mids and highs as that design class D amp will not amplify mids and highs as it only has a bandwidth of 25-200Hz.