Before and After pics
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 113
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From: Fergus Falls, MN
Before and After pics
After weeks and countless hours with a wire wheel, My 1960 is painted and ready for the next step. It has new rear springs/bushings, front shackles/bushings, rear diff seal, U-joints, U-bolts, tie rod,ends and front shocks.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 739
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From: Morgantown, WV
That looks awesome. Did you paint this using spray cans both primer and paint, or did you use a spray gun? What tools did you use to sand it down with? Angle grinder and wire wheels, or what?
Also, I think you might have caffeine issues due to all the empty coca-cola cans on your workbench.
Also, I think you might have caffeine issues due to all the empty coca-cola cans on your workbench.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 4
From: Olive Branch,Ms
It all ways feels good to make a step forward. Looks great. You cleaned the rearend so good it looks new.I've spent the last three months wire brushing my chassis I know what you mean by the hours.
FTE Legend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 283,955
Likes: 8,393
From: northwestern Ontario
The difference is night and day, looks really good and is a real good feeling when you get that much done.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 113
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From: Fergus Falls, MN
Thanks for the kind words and encouragement. I used a 4'' wire wheel on an angle grinder and a 1/2 wheel on a drill. The rest was with a wire brush. The paint is the Eastwood system topcoated with four coats of flat black Rustoleum applied with the gun.The axels and springs were primed with rustoleum metal reformer, rusty metal primer and topcoated with Valspar semi flat tractor enamel. (rattle can)
As far as the caffine addiction your right! If were barley pops I wouldn't be half this far but I might have had more fun
As far as the caffine addiction your right! If were barley pops I wouldn't be half this far but I might have had more fun
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,591
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From: Pflugerville, tx
Here an update on mine.. on the way to get its first alignment..
(red spot light reflection of some sort)
sam
got the running boards from the painter this weekend too.. so those should go one soon
(red spot light reflection of some sort)
sam
got the running boards from the painter this weekend too.. so those should go one soon
Tuned
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 356
Likes: 14
From: California
So that's what my 1960 is going to look like when I pull it apart next month 
Your hard work and effort turned out great! I found a local company with an oven large enough to powder coat my entire frame, so I'm going to take the easy way out and let them sand blast and coat the frame for me 
I'm curious why your truck has a center drive shaft bearing? My 1960 truck has a slip yoke up front and no center bearing.
I'm looking at replacing my front springs (sagging). What source did you use for your springs, and how close do they match your originals?
Your hard work and effort turned out great! I found a local company with an oven large enough to powder coat my entire frame, so I'm going to take the easy way out and let them sand blast and coat the frame for me I'm curious why your truck has a center drive shaft bearing? My 1960 truck has a slip yoke up front and no center bearing.I'm looking at replacing my front springs (sagging). What source did you use for your springs, and how close do they match your originals?
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 113
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From: Fergus Falls, MN
I mght have the center bearing because it's a 4 speed on the floor hooked up to a 223. Maybe somebody else with a little more knowlege can chime in here. It has the slip yoke behind the bearing. I kept my original front springs and just rebushed them. The rear springs had some broken leafs so I replaced them with a set off a '64 from the bone yard. The rear end seems to sit a little higher even tho the newer ones are 6 leaf and the old were 7 leaf.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 739
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From: Morgantown, WV
I was getting some local estimates to have my frame sandblasted and then powder coated Gloss black for b/w $500-$700. Does that sound reasonable, or is that a crazy price?
I think I want to sand and paint it myself, but they would have the frame done in 5-7 days instead of me spending months of sanding, priming, and painting. Choices, choices.
I think I want to sand and paint it myself, but they would have the frame done in 5-7 days instead of me spending months of sanding, priming, and painting. Choices, choices.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 2
From: Marietta, Ohio
I was getting some local estimates to have my frame sandblasted and then powder coated Gloss black for b/w $500-$700. Does that sound reasonable, or is that a crazy price?
I think I want to sand and paint it myself, but they would have the frame done in 5-7 days instead of me spending months of sanding, priming, and painting. Choices, choices.
I think I want to sand and paint it myself, but they would have the frame done in 5-7 days instead of me spending months of sanding, priming, and painting. Choices, choices.
A little piece of advice here... If you are really hung on blowing the cash for the powder coat, be sure to remove all the sharp edges which include the edges along the top and bottom of the total length of the frame. The electrostatic deposition process causes the buildup to be vey thin on a sharp edge or sharp right angle and it will start peeling there if any rust gets started. I have had several powder coated pieces that are exposed and that is what happened. It's like watching your money go up in smoke.
Later Man...