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2001 ball joint

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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 08:24 PM
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2001 ball joint

im goin to college in indianapolis and left my truck back in missouri with my parents for the winter my dad called and says the ball joint has went out can someone please tell me what type of lower ball joint my truck would have i would appreiciate it
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 08:32 PM
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What kind of Ranger are you, or I should say, is Dad is driving?? Is it a 4x4, or 4x2?? What is the engine size?? Is it a regular cab, or a super cab?? Need to know this so people on this forum can help out.....
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 08:36 PM
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its a 2 wheel drive 3.0 and an extended cab
 
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 08:50 PM
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Not to sure if 2001 ranger has control arms?? If it does, supposedly, it is to be replaced as an assembly-but, a few of the guys on this forum have replaced the lower ball joint, with sucess..I hope a few of them look at this thread....
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 07:55 AM
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Welcome to FTE.

If all the control arm bushings are ok, Upper & Lower ball joints can be replaced on your 4X2.
I just had both sides, upper & lower ball joints replaced on my 99 4X2 extra cab.

I chose TRW, but Moog & others are available at most autoparts stores.

Look on the Advance Auto, AutoZone, ect, web sites & input your Rangers particulars & it'll turn up a range of vendor choices, price & quality.

I'd stay with a quality brand name part. I wanted something other than Motorcraft, because their rubber dust boots didn't last long & began to crack, on my 99 Ranger by 60K miles.

So dirt & moisture got in there & did a number on my upper BJ's & the boots were shot on the lowers, so it wasn't going to be long before they were worn out too.

So have your Dad check the dust boots on the upper & lower BJ's.

Replacing both sides upper & lower BJ's with TRW, alignment, tire rotation & pulling a tire to fix a puncture was $600, at my local Tire America & this was $200 below my next best estimate & I'm in SW Va., to give you some ideas on cost & choices, ect.

Let us know how it goes.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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Thanks, Pawpaw, I haven't had to touch mine yet, but I'm sure that day is coming, and I didn't want to give bad advice..When I bought my Ranger, I drilled holes in all the ball joints, and the tie rod ends, and put in grease zerks so I could lube them when I do oil changes.. 130,000, and they are still pretty solid, and still drives as good as the day I got her....
 
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 10:19 PM
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Lack of grease wasn't the problem on my OEM BJ's, it was the sorry rubber the dust boots were made of, that dry rotted, cracked & let in moisture & dirt.

The upper BJ on the right side was so badly worn that it was loose & was beginning to affect tire wear.

But I got 67K out of the OEM Firestone Wilderness HT's, even with the worn BJ's, so I can't complain about the tires, but I sure wasn't gonna opt for Motorcraft replacement BJ's!!!!

The TRW BJ's have zerks, so I can squirt some grease in whenever I need too & with a lifetime warranty, I'll bet the rubber dust boots are better quality than the OEM Motorcraft were, which looked like they were made from that recycled rubber that Ford likes to make our sorry break pedal pads from.

My break pedal & BJ rubber dust boot rant for the day!!!! lol
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 12:12 AM
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Its funny you mention the pedal pads, as I have already replaced my clutch pad, but I didn't buy one for a Ford, I bought one that goes on a Chrysler, or Dodge-the pad was twice as thick, which is nice to have, as you don't have to "push" to get your clutch on the floor-fits good, only I had to turn the pad on its side to go the pedal, but no problems-works well..Got the pad from the 'HELP" section at Murrays Auto parts(same as Advance, Chekers, Shragen, or whatever), couple of bucks......
 
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Old Jan 31, 2009 | 08:07 PM
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actually i am goin to school at lincoln college of technology for automotive management and was wandering whether it would be a press in or not so hopfully i could do this at home next time i go back so i can save some money
 
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 08:24 AM
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Maybe Pawpaw could tell you if there press-ins, or they're rivoted in place, and you have to drill them out, and replace the rivots with small bolts..Pawpaw is more informed than I on this subject...
 
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 09:36 AM
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Mine were press in. You may have to use some heat to get them out if things are really rusty down there.

The guys only had problems with my passenger side upper BJ, but a little rust buster oil, heat & hammer broke it loose.

Most autoparts stores have a press kit on their loan-a-tool program.

I decided to just let the pros do it, as I don't really like suspension work, gotta be careful working around loaded up coil springs & the like, just not my cup of tea, maybe I'll do a power steering rack, or replace tie rod ends, but thats about it for me on suspension work!!!! lol

Let us know what you find & how it goes.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 12:03 PM
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my dad took it to the shop back home yesterday even tho i told him i would look at it when i come home tonight. but anywayit was both pasenger side ball joints and its gonna cost me $300 for parts and labor. thanks again for the help guys
 
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