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Seafoam probably will not help with the problem your working on, but it wouldn't hurt anything to run a can through.
I'd say no to the q-tip. A quality contact cleaner or MAF spray should be fine, they are fairly pressurized and hose off the element very well. Wiping with a q-tip can damage the element if you apply too much force.
With my coil issue, I noticed an orange stain on the boots where the water had rusted the hole. So unless the water is resting right on the ends or the boots are cracked, you probably don't have a problem with that coil. A shop vac or just compressed air will do a good job removing trash from around the plugs.
It's probably possible to be sans EGR. I wouldn't expect it, particularly in colder places. There is some kind of differential pressure valve near the IAC that works in conjuncture with the EGR valve, so the actual valve may not look like the classic diaphragm valve.
All done....Changed the plugs, cleaned and reinstalled TB, IAC, and MAF. Well The old plugs were pretty worn and had a light crusty film on them. I found one odd coil on the passenger side in the rear. It was a Motor Craft (others were black with numbers on the top) with the mounting tab for the securing bolt broke off and looked like it was dropped on concrete more than once. I put that one in the front so when I get a new one this week its easier to change out. The truck feels a lot smoother and more responsive while driving, but... Idling is worse now. It starts at 1k RPM and slowly drops to 750 then back up to 1k. Like it can't find where it wants to be. I think cleaning the IAC maybe made it worse. It did have a lot of carbon build up in it. So now a coil and IAC are on the shopping list.
When I drove 20 miles to work this morning the truck seemed to be idling fine, came home this afternoon and it's rough again. I just unplugged the battery and after dinner I have to run around a bit, so I'll see if resetting the computer will do anything for it. The fuel filter was changed less than a month ago..
Took it to the store after having the battery unhooked for about 45 minutes. Truck shifts smoother and the idle seems good again. There is still a hic up or a miss while idling. I ordered a new coil last night to replace the beat up looking one. Maybe that'll help smooth things out. If not unfortunately I'll have to bring it to the dealer and see if they can get any codes off it. I have no CEL on and Advance auto can't get codes. Definitely something still wrong.
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