Let me elaborate more on what is in the truck:

The truck is a 1992 ford f150 4X4
automatic transmission (AOD) 5.0 V8.

Motorcraft coil - not re manufactured
MSD cap and rotor
Bosch Platinum +4 spark plugs

Original distributor - 197k miles
Original Ignition module - 197k miles
Original EGR valve - 197k miles

Motor 5.0 V8 26k miles
AOD transmission 17k miles

Here are my questions and my NEED for some help:

I ran a engine check this morning for a pending CEL I had read out code 11 (system pass), 31 (PFE, EVP, or EVR circuit below minimum voltage),32 (EVP voltage opening not detected),33 (EGR valve opening not detected). So there is a light at the end of the tunnel. I need to know what to do to fix this? Just change out the EGR valve, sensor, and pigtail? or something else.

Secondly, I ran a test on the spark plugs to see whether or not I had good "spark". I had a low spark real low. Usually it should have a blue spark coming out and I had orange and yellow. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor are new. Should I change out the distributor and module?

A few more questions:

1.) Would the ignition module lead to a low spark?
2.) Does the distributor have anything to do with low spark? if so...how? if not...how?
3.) My plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are all brand spanking new...less than 200 miles on each. Could they really foul up that quick?


Thank you in advance guys.

 

If you have any factory style plugs, check the spark with one of those. The +4 plugs don't seem very well liked around here and could be your problem with the weak spark. Some people will tell you only to buy Motorcraft plugs, but any quality standard copper core resistor spark plug will work just fine (motorcraft/autolite are the same, NGK, Denso are all good brands).

 

I've had nothing but problems in the past running anything other than a good old resistor type spark plug on a pushrod distributor ignition V8. The older engines don't need or seem to like fancy spark plugs. When you get into the new modular engines they use the plantinum fancy stuff.

 

And yes you have an EGR problem, I suggest you start by testing or replacing the EVR and check the vacuum source and feed to the EGR valve.

 

1. About the ignition module, I personally have never had one in between, they were either good or dead, no spark.2. The distributor simply does what it's name implies, distributes the spark3. Like I mentioned, i would ditch those plugs and use MC or AL resistorsHow about the coil? It's what produces the high voltage spark

 

I just bought the coil last week. I tested it and its putting out the correct voltage. Every sensor and part on the motor is new except the EGR valve and distributor. So I bought them. They will be in on wednesday and i will try to put them in that night, but we are getting 14 inches of snow so who knows what will happen. I got a new EGR valve and a new sensor on the top. I checked all the vacum lines and there is no leak there, so assuming its just the valve $100 bucks well spent. I am picking up the spark plugs and cap today. I have ford racing wires, are those ok, and how do I test them to make sure there is no short in the wires. Thanks guys for your help.

 

I'm sure those are good plug wires. About the only thing you can do with them is check for continuity and resistance with an ohmmeter. I don't know the spec on the resistance. Best way to check out wires is to look closely at them while it's running and dark, you'll easily see any leakage.

 

I checked the continuity and for leakages and there was none. I used a special light from my work which picks up small detections of electricity, it pays to be a chemist . I will change out the distributor, EGR valve and sensor, plugs, cap and wire and see how it works. I picked up a new motorcraft module for 40 bucks so I figure worst comes to worst put that in. If all else fails I just rerun all the wires and see if maybe there is a fault in one of the connector wires running to the coil, module, or distributor. Thanks for your help, any more suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

 

I almost bet it's those spark plugs. They are made for these newer high energy ignition sytems. Best of luck to you, sounds like you know what you're doing.

 

I would bet the spark plugs are an issue, but when you do the spark plug test with the tool....it looks like a spark plug with an opening and you plug it in, then ground it, start the truck and it shows you the color spark. That is when the spark is yellow/orange and not blue like it is supposed to be. And that has nothing to do with the spark plugs, because they are no where connected to the tool. I'll try it all, if it works....never question good luck....if it doesn't then I'll come back on here and get more great advice from you guys. Thanks so much you always seem to get me out of my binds.

 

Oh I see, you used one of those tools. I didn't get that earlier.

 

so now knowing i used one of those tools does that change anything? or is replacing the distributor and module a good start. I think it could be the PIP sensor inside the distributor that could be causing this situation, or basically the lack of dielectric grease. Anything will help
thanks

 

Check the timing?