Is there any obvious pitfalls to do this without the body on the truck? Any try it?https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...r_Highboy.html

 

You will only have some uncertainty with the intermediate shaft. Every truck will be slightly different and this measurement might be difficult to verify if the body is off of the truck.

Since you have a highboy, this is a pretty common upgrde, but the addition of crossover has proven to have advantages over this old push pull system. Have you considered this?

 

i would at least have the cab on the truck if you want to use a donor intermediate shaft. if you dont mind having a new one cut, i dont see a problem with mounting the box with the body off. crap. 3rd time i've written this because i keep getting sidetracked and clicking links not thinking this wont be here when i hit the back button.

 

Yes have considered the crossover. I dont know which box to use for that, and i was kinda trying to keep thing stock/simple. I am open to any good suggestion. Also trying to keep this as easy on the wallet as can. Todd

 

This conversion is probably a matter of performance and not a matter of money. When performing this conversion, you have to consider what the differences in total costs will actually be. SInce you have to mount the box, make an intermediate shaft, and make a drag link for both designs, how much of a difference is actually there?
The answer is absolutely nothing. Alright, the x-over will be marginally higher, but only based upon material, the labor is actually the same.
If you are using a 78/9 F250 power steering box, then you will be using the proper box for x-over, since this pitman arm can be re-indexed, it can now be installed to swing from left to right and not in the front to rear configuration.
You will just have to make sure that you keep an eye on you crossmember, and keep the new drag link from running into it at full suspeneion compression. THe same is true for the spring, and the pitman arm. You dont want it to stike the arm. Since stock springs are used, this is not such an issue, since the stock springs are pretty stiff.
Clearance is tight, but it can be done.
In this case, the drag link can easilly attach to the existing tie rod for a modified inverted "T" style steering configuration, and the "bumpsteer" and limited turning radius associated with the original design will be a thing of the past.
This conversion will only get expensive if you make everything for a push pull, and decide to later change to the x-over. Then you perform much of this work over again.
Upgrade to x-over the first time, and you will only pay once, keeping costs about the same.

 

I mounted my F-350 4X4 box on the 1975 frame with no sheet metal or engine. I had no problems, it needs to be tight against the frame cross member,and make sure you turn it all the way from left to right to make sure the arm misses the frame or you will be grinding on it for clearance. There are pic's in my gallery, it's not pretty but it works great. All parts just slid together like it was made for it.

Gool luck

 

75350, do you have any pictures of your installation? How did you attach the draglink to the tie rod. I was thinking this would be done properly, only with a new pass. side knuckle? I am interested in this idea as well. I was looking at the link I posted mostly cause all the thinkin was already done. The list of parts was provided as well.

TIA Todd

 

Sure. I have done this a few times and while some of my rides are different from eachother, they all share quite a bit. They all have some sort of x-over steering.
Alright here is a stock inverted "T" style steering syetm with chebby 1 ton TRE's in a bronco with a D60F conversion:


Here is my 74 truck with saginaw box and D60F:




Here is my 73 truck with F150 steering box, D60F and 1.25" chro mo spherical rod ends:



Also check out Super Duty trucks from 99-04 for additional ideas, and look into F150 trucks with inverted "T" steering. Unless your truck has a D60, you will have to modify your pass side steering knuckle and purchase a steering arm.
Ig you still have a closed knuckle axle, you will want to upgrade it as well.
Inverted "T" minimizes the amount of fabrication required, since many of our trucks came with the "T" style steering.