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Hello I'm new to the forum and and a new owner of a 1990 bronco 2 that needs a rear driveshaft. From doing allot of reading around i've found out that ford made a c.v. style and a u-joint style the later being the better. My current driveshaft that needs to be replaced is the c.v. style. I got under the truck and measured 30 7/8 inches from flange to flange. Calling local parts stores around vancouver (Napa And Lordco) they tell me that they have one that they sell that measures 32 11/16 inches. My question is does the compress a few inches or are they rigid and where does it compress because the one I currently have on doesn't look like it does. Thanks for any info.
They all have what is called a slip joint. 32" might fit, it really depends on the length of the splines how much it compresses. Do you have a manual transmission?
The slip-joint splines on the u-joint (single and double cardan t-case / trans end) style shaft are 4-6" long, if I am not mistaken, could be longer. I know a lot of people who get the '84-'86(could be 85?) u-joint style shafts for replacements. The one thing you have to keep in mind, though, is if it's "too long", that slip joint will compress too much. I think you may have around a 3-4", maybe more, travel that you can work with. You will have to call them and see what the length is fully compressed. If they can't tell you, then the only thing I can see is going ahead and buying it and seeing if it will fit or not. Otherwise, I would suggest checking your local salvage yards.
The early driveshafts also had a double cardon joint at the t-case end. That is considerd the best type. But there is a problem. They make many different sizes of u-joints and double cardon joints. The early Bronco II used the 121 or 1210 series. That requires a different yoke for the t-case. Not sure about differential but I would measure to be sure. The regular std slip joint driveshaft (single u-joint in each end) uses the bigger 131 or 1310 series joint. That is much stronger than the 121 or 1210. If you do want to go with a double cardon another thing to consider is that the 121 or 1210 series early shaft is not only weeker, it does not flex well. I had this problem on my BII. The folks at the above link can make you what ever you want if you want to go that way.
Would rear drive shafts from a 1985 or 1988 B2 be okay cause I see from the wrecker website they have a few.
As long as they are a standard transmission 4x4?
The early std. tranys had a shorter over all lenth. So the drive shaft will too long. Not sure when they went longer. You might try an a4ld auto driveshaft.
12 mil bolts, bring a couple wrenches as they are on tight. i broke 2 wrenches taking the old one off, needed a brass or deadblow mallet to break them loose.
Well I found a driveshaft at the wrecker and swapped them last night. I really thought I had the problem fixed when i pulled the driveshaft and it fell apart. Took it for a test drive and I still get that grinding sound when de-accelerating. I wondering now if it might be my t-case.
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