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MAF Sensor?

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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 06:52 AM
  #1  
Muddog999's Avatar
Muddog999
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MAF Sensor?

While my 99 4.0 4x4 was in the shop for a different issue, the tech checked on my recent 'check engine' light... and tells me I need a MAF for >$200.

A quick search tells me I can find the part for around $110. Excuse me for not doing the research yet, but is this an easy DIY?

(The shop will be getting enough of my money on the hub rebuilds. )

Thanks,
Steven

ps. 170kmiles, fuel mileage took a recent dump, so it makes sense, I guess
 
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 07:46 AM
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Yeah, it's an easy enough fix, but try to get a second opinion-go to your local auto parts chain store(Advance,Autozone,etc..),as most will scan for free..Or maybe you know someone who you can trust to do repairs like this, and won't charge you to diagnose this..Is you truck really running that bad?? Maybe, your MAF needs a good cleaning?? You can buy spray just for this-DO NOT TOUCH THE ELEMENT WITH ANYTHING BUT THE SPRAY!! How clean is your air filter, and also the air box?? Parts like this are pricey, but there are also other sensors, and other factors that can lead to bad gas mileage, and even though you have a lot of miles on the clock, I KNOW I'd like to be SURE that replacing that part is the right move BEFORE I spend the money!!
 
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Old Jan 24, 2009 | 10:23 PM
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I second trying to clean it. Youll probally gonna need a security torx set of screwdrivers and a chisel to chip away at the stuff they put on the head of the bolt to keep you from diy if those screws have never been touched.

Go down to any autoparts store and get some QD Contact Cleaner/electrical parts cleaner or the suff special made for MAF's. Disconnect the battery , Unscrew the 2 screws,carefully take it out and lay the sensor upside down. Dont use a q tip or anything on it just spray it does liberally a couple times with the spray. It dries instantly but i let it dry for a coupel min either way. Pop is back in , reconnect the battery cable.

Make sure your not using an oil air filter as that caused me to clean my sensor a couple times beofre i figure out that pre oiled filters blow.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2009 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Muddog999
While my 99 4.0 4x4 was in the shop for a different issue, the tech checked on my recent 'check engine' light... and tells me I need a MAF for >$200.

A quick search tells me I can find the part for around $110. Excuse me for not doing the research yet, but is this an easy DIY?

(The shop will be getting enough of my money on the hub rebuilds. )

Thanks,
Steven

ps. 170kmiles, fuel mileage took a recent dump, so it makes sense, I guess
Post the trouble code number/s that the Tech retrieved, that caused him to believe the MAF sensor needs to be replaced. The MAF sensor rarely goes bad, so don't rush out to buy one. If you don't have the code/s, then run this puppy by your favorite autoparts store for a no cost scan, like drb1956 suggested & post ALL the codes found. As the guys have suggested, a number of things could cause a mpg drop & the computer is complaining about something & that complaint code/s could offer up good clues for your trouble shoot. More thoughts for pondering.
 

Last edited by pawpaw; Jan 25, 2009 at 09:39 AM. Reason: screwed up software
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 03:02 PM
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thanks for the advice, all... a good cleaning would be much cheaper.


codes specified were: PO174 PO171
 
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 03:47 PM
  #6  
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Go to the Technical Information Section listed at the top of the Ranger index page. Select "ODB-II Codes" and look up your codes. The explanation for both is listed after PO175. Its a rather long list of possible problem sources. Note that your two codes are not codes for the MAF, so it looks like it doesn't need to be replaced. Cleaning might be a good first step. Clean it and clear the codes (leave the battery disconnected for 15 min. or so) and then drive it for a while. See if the "Check Engine" light comes on or not. If it does, have the codes read again and post them here.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Muddog999
thanks for the advice, all... a good cleaning would be much cheaper.


codes specified were: PO174 PO171
Those are lean codes for both cyl banks, so you could have a vacuum leak somewhere.
 
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