Pertronics points replacement unit
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 942
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From: South Texas
Pertronics points replacement unit
I have a classic 68 t-bird 429ci I am rebuilding and was wondering if anyone had any experience with these or some of the "other" points replacement units.
I am leaning to the pertronix units from the standpoint of not needing some other external box to do the points replacement.
Any comments?
I am leaning to the pertronix units from the standpoint of not needing some other external box to do the points replacement.
Any comments?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
I just did it for a boat with two V-8 318s, very easy as long as you get the correct boxes the first time 
If you search the 67-72 forums and Off Road forums you will see many people have done the conversions. You can always keep the points and cond. in the glove box as a back up, but, the Pertronix rarely fail.
I think it is well worth the money, usually $80-$120.
If you search the 67-72 forums and Off Road forums you will see many people have done the conversions. You can always keep the points and cond. in the glove box as a back up, but, the Pertronix rarely fail.
I think it is well worth the money, usually $80-$120.
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,605
Likes: 5,629
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
if you can find one, use the pertronix ignitor I
i don't care for the "new and improved ignitor II"
also, leave the resistor wire in place. they tell you to remove it, but the pertronix unit works better on 8 volts than it does on 12 volts. i have seen 4 fail when 12 volts was put to them. but on 8 volts, there are some out that i put in over 25 years ago, and still going strong.
i don't care for the "new and improved ignitor II"
also, leave the resistor wire in place. they tell you to remove it, but the pertronix unit works better on 8 volts than it does on 12 volts. i have seen 4 fail when 12 volts was put to them. but on 8 volts, there are some out that i put in over 25 years ago, and still going strong.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 5,228
Likes: 5
From: Running Springs CA
They tend to die suddenly when they go, just like on some of the older GM factory units. When you put the electronics inside the distributor, heat is a problem.
Take a look at the Crane Cams unit. It seems to hold up better, and includes a built-in adjustable rev limiter.
Jim
Take a look at the Crane Cams unit. It seems to hold up better, and includes a built-in adjustable rev limiter.
Jim
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2001
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From: South Texas
Curious why you say this? I was reading (somewhere) that the ignitor I could self destruct if the ignition switch was left on too long without the engine running, but the ignitor II series fixed that problem.
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,605
Likes: 5,629
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
ignitors I units i put in over 25 years ago are still running.
ignitor II units i tried using never lasted more than 2 months in my 7 litre. after 4 of them burnt out, i went back to the original ignitor I, and no more problems.
that was 8 years ago now. and i know 3 other people that have tried them since, and everyone has died within a few months. when they put the ignitor I in, they never had a problem again, just like me.
i recommend to everyone to leave the resistor wire or ballast resister on, and run a stock coil. there is no reason to waste money on the pertronix coil.
ignitor II units i tried using never lasted more than 2 months in my 7 litre. after 4 of them burnt out, i went back to the original ignitor I, and no more problems.
that was 8 years ago now. and i know 3 other people that have tried them since, and everyone has died within a few months. when they put the ignitor I in, they never had a problem again, just like me.
i recommend to everyone to leave the resistor wire or ballast resister on, and run a stock coil. there is no reason to waste money on the pertronix coil.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
> there is no reason to waste money on the pertronix coil.
I agree. You can buy for $12-$18 a coil with the resistor built in at Advance. That is what I did for one of my older Fords when I wanted to eliminate the wire because it was so hard to get to behind the dash.
I agree. You can buy for $12-$18 a coil with the resistor built in at Advance. That is what I did for one of my older Fords when I wanted to eliminate the wire because it was so hard to get to behind the dash.
