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Real hard to start after a warm restart. Like, engine up to temp. Turn off for 5 minutes. Then go to restart. Takes a while to start. then acts like its flooded. Blip the throttle a couple times and it clears and idle smooths out.
20 degree cold start. Takes half as long to start and starts with a smooth idle.
Real hard to start after a warm restart. Like, engine up to temp. Turn off for 5 minutes. Then go to restart. Takes a while to start. then acts like its flooded. Blip the throttle a couple times and it clears and idle smooths out.
20 degree cold start. Takes half as long to start and starts with a smooth idle.
Sounds like possible leaking injector(s) or Fuel pressure reg problem. Check fuel rail pressure (Key on Engine off) should be around 40 PSI, Start the engine & it should drop about 5 PSI. If not check vacuum line to FPR unplug the vac line & Fuel pressure should rise (at idle).
If pressure will not hold with KOEO, suspect leaking injector or other fuel pressure leak. Leaking injector would hardly be noticable at cold start, but at hot start it will def cause some problems.
Air filter blocked or faulty ECT or ACT could cause this condition also.
Funny, my van just started to exhibit similar symptoms. But more specifically, it's gotten much easier to start when it's been off for a long time, like a week, but warm start has not changed. It used to take at least a second of cranking to start whether warm or cold. Now, after sitting for a few days, it starts within the first half second of cranking. When warm, it goes to normal again. I'm also wondering if the injectors have a small leak that pools fuel over time, which makes the cold starts seem too easy.
Funny, my van just started to exhibit similar symptoms. But more specifically, it's gotten much easier to start when it's been off for a long time, like a week, but warm start has not changed. It used to take at least a second of cranking to start whether warm or cold. Now, after sitting for a few days, it starts within the first half second of cranking. When warm, it goes to normal again. I'm also wondering if the injectors have a small leak that pools fuel over time, which makes the cold starts seem too easy.
Strange, after a week, you would think that fuel vapour would be lost from the cylinders. Shows how good an injection system is !
Ford engine strategy allows 1 second of NO spark at cold crank to prime the oil system & build up pressure. Big help with engine longevity.
I would check coolant temp sensor and air charge sensor for correct resistance...If you have two or more injectors leaking you may have a hard time starting. I have one leaky injector from time to time but never hard start..I did have hard start on a 94 and 96 both cases it was the fuel pump...
I had trouble starting my Aerostar when the engine was warm. My CHECK ENGINE light was on and after taking it to a shop to check the code for the CHECK ENGINE it turns out it was my coolant temp sensor. I changed that and starts up after 3 cranks no matter what the temp is. Its cheap and easy to change, I would just change it because its a simple fix.
Sorry I've been busy. I tested the regulator last year.
I was thinking the ECT myself. On my old 914's they have a cold start valve that is a 5th injector to give it extra fuel when cold. The Aerostar acts the same as the 914 did when it started leaking.
No codes. New fuel pump. Where/how do I hook up a fuel pressure gauge ?
on the passenger side on fuel rail, there is a connector that looks like a tire air stem. Schrader valve. fuel pressure gauge hose screws onto it. be careful and drain first with shop rag over top of hand and valve to keep gas spray out of eyes.
should see 30 psi minimum at idle, 35 psi at 2k rpm.
shut off engine and should not drop more than 5 psi in an hour.
pull off and look for fuel drips and and breaks or deterioration in the FP regulator vacuum line