pull a part?
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 110
From: Northshore, MN
Thanks for all the help guys. I am new to all this stuff. I have messed with dirt track race cars for over ten years, but that was with a different brand and you went with a lot of fabrication. I haven't put the rearend in yet. It needs to be cleaned and I also need to move the perches about half an inch each. That just makes you mad to have to cut them off and move them half a stinking inch. All I have right now is a bare frame up on jackstands and the cab in the corner of the shop. Long way to go and a lot to learn.
I'll have the Roast Duck
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,622
Likes: 110
From: Northshore, MN
Allow me to reword all this mess I made.
open diff: the one wheel wonder
limited slip: one wheel spins and when it loses traction it transfers over to the other wheel. has clutch packs, and a friction modifier lube.
locker: Detroit is a common one. It allows both rear wheels to spin at the same time constantly. You'll hear a chirp when rounding corners....some more modern ones allow the diff to seperate when turning corners.
spool: this is the full time both wheels spin. welded spider gears are called a "Lincoln Locker"
posi is a chevy term for limited slip, AFAIK.
detroits and spools were never offered in trucks.
open diff: the one wheel wonder
limited slip: one wheel spins and when it loses traction it transfers over to the other wheel. has clutch packs, and a friction modifier lube.
locker: Detroit is a common one. It allows both rear wheels to spin at the same time constantly. You'll hear a chirp when rounding corners....some more modern ones allow the diff to seperate when turning corners.
spool: this is the full time both wheels spin. welded spider gears are called a "Lincoln Locker"
posi is a chevy term for limited slip, AFAIK.
detroits and spools were never offered in trucks.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Kershaw, South Carolina
Yes the pads are 40" to the center. I just thought of something. When I rebuilt the bushings in the rear springs and put the hangers back on I didn't tighten them all the down.(I was waiting to repaint them and lock-tite the bolts) My 12 year old son measured the springs for me and said "about" 40 and 3/4". But I just asked him how he measured and he said outside of the bolt to outside of the other bolt. So once I tighten them all the way down it should be right. See I told y'all I'm still learning.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Kershaw, South Carolina
I just finished cleaning and painting the rearend. I put in new axle seals. Went to put the rearend in and it is still about 1/2" off from dropping on the pins. Everything is tight. I went and measured the pads on the old rearend and the pin-hole in the pads are 40 1/2" apart. I know the rearend had been changed before several times, but the springs were not changed according to the p.o. Should the pin on the springs be at 40 or 40 1/2? By the way it is '50 f-1.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Kershaw, South Carolina
Yea I ground the rivets out when I was stripping the frame. I took everything off the frame, sandblasted it and put it back together. I tried a racket strap to pull the springs together, but it was making the driver's side spring twist a little more than what looked safe.
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a1bummer
Clutch, Transmission, Differential, Axle & Transfer Case
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Apr 22, 2006 04:12 PM
