If you are using any of the original wiring to the coil, you may already have the resistor in the harness. If you are not sure you have two choices. Hook the coil up to the original coil + wire, and run the engine and check the voltage at the coil +. If it's less than 12 volts, then you are ok, and the harness already has the resistor wire in it.

Or you can ditch the original wiring and mount your own resistor and run a new wire. The worst case would be using a new resistor with the old resistor wire, making the voltage to the coil go through two resistors.

 

Thanks alot guys, you've been very helpful!
Looks like I'll have to go with option number because I have yet to get the engine running.
I just thought of another question. Can someone get me a wiring diagram for the alternator/ regulator? I could pobly figure it out but I'd rather be certain than shoot in the dark.

 

Does the alternator you are hooking up have a separate regulator on the fender? Ford made about 3 or 4 different styles with different wiring.

 

Regulator is on the fender next to the soleniod.

 

 

ahh. Very nice thanks. Well I got the truck running this mornig, I had to disconnect that white wire that runs to the "S" side of the soleniod before I could get spark. It seems to Idle and start very nice.

 

I guess I'm hijacking here, but it looks like the right people with the right knowlege for my issue are involved with this posting. I have an 84' F150 300 CID I-6 with TFI and presumably EEC-IV. It has the feed-back carb and an O2 sensor.

The previous owner removed the air pump, A/C, and probably other things as well. The truck runs poorly; as if the timing is not advancing during acceleration. The check-engine light never comes on (not even during start) which makes me wonder if the EEC is somehow disabled due to the missing air pump.

It alos has a run-on problem when I turn off the key. Sometimes it will run 20-30 seconds before sputtering out. I have replaced the TFI module and pickup, changed plugs, and rebuilt the carb. It still sucks.

When I took it to the Ford garage and asked them to plug it into their computer code reader, they told me there was almost nothing you could learn from doing that. Later they called and said they couldn't even comfirm the timing because it was so old and their timing light wasn't very good. I couldn't believe it the Ford shop can't check the timing on an F150. Anyway, I am back to figuring this out on my own (with your help please).

Does anyone have a good logic diagram of what the EEC-IV requires for inputs to give the TFI and feedback carb correct information? Thanks everyone.

Keith Wagoner
CDR USN (ret)

 

You have two choices now. Continue the long hard road with keeping the EECIV system, or convert it to a earlier distributor and carb that do not require the computer.

 

Mike,
Thanks for the input. Just HOW long is hard is what I am hoping to determine. It's a familiar story...I bought the truck for a couple of yard projects and because I have a lot of love for the 300 CID engine. Who would have thought Ford could screw that up? Anyway, I just wanted to pass the truck on to the next guy with a clean conscience; knowing it was working correctly. I hate to buy a new carb and distributor if I can avoid it.

Keith

 

I myself have a 1985 F150 that originally came with the dreaded feedback carburetor and the EEC-IV computer, and I was in the the same boat as you. If you want your truck to work correctly, you have two choices:

1. You need to put ALL the smog equipment back on the truck, along with ALL the sensors the truck originally came with. MAP sensor, O2 sensor, EGR, Thermactor system, feedback solenoid, canister purge solenoid, catalytic converter...you get the point. The fact is, the EEC-IV needs ALL of these inputs to run the truck correctly. This is a very expensive and time consuming route to go, not to mention you are going to have a tough time finding a mechanic, including FORD who even knows anything about the feedback carb system. OR,

2. Finish removing the smog equipment, all associated sensors, and then the feedback carburetor (which probably needs to be rebuilt anyway) and finally the EEC-IV distributor and ignition components. Then go and get a conventional carburetor, and a Ford Motorcraft distributor for a 1983 Ford F150 with 300 engine. You will also need the following ignition components for a 1983 Ford F150: ignition coil (canister type), Duraspark II ignition module, and the wiring harness to hook everything up.

Do a serach for "Duraspark" and there should be lots of information on the conversion. This is how I learned to do the conversion on my own truck. The beauty of the Durapark II conversion over aftermarket ignition systems is that you will be using all Ford Motorcraft parts from the same year, and you should be able to go into ANY parts house in ANY town for replacement parts.

Option 2 will be MUCH cheaper than the option 1, and your truck will run MUCH better and probably get better gas mileage too. Good luck!

 

Dieseling (running on) is usually caused by too high of idle speed. I cant see how it could have anything to do with ignition, when you shut the key off spark should stop. If you want your idle a little high for some reason you can try shutting the ign off while still in drive, it may bring the idle down enough to prevent dieseling

 

If you want to go the Duraspark route it can be a 2 step process.

1. new distributor with single vac advance, round coil and “blue” ignition module.
2. change out the carb to an 1983 version.

I am still running a feedback carb with a DS2 ignition and so are a lot of others on the forum, my current carb is in good shape, but it is still on my junk yard list of thing to do. Doesn’t seem to hurt gas mileage much.

Try ebay for Duraspark parts and harnesses.

Auto zone has a new dist p/n 84-2669 complete with cap and rotor for $71.99 out the door (no core charge).

You can look at my old posts for more DS2 info.

If you are really cheap like me you can do this… Dirt cheap Ignition
But it might hurt resale as it doesn’t look stock.

Jim

 

I use to wonder why I had so many loose vacuum hoses under the hood. There's a big bundle of snipped wires sticking out of the firewall and now there's an ignition module bolted to the fender. I knew that it had been converted but I didn't know what the previous system was. Good to know, Thanks!

 

There are Five things that will cause the 300 to diesel.

1: High Idle

2: Ignition Timing advanced too much.

3: Running too rich, or malfunctioning Feedback solenoid, o2 sensor etc.

4: High Engine temps.

5: Carbon Buildup

Most of the time the 300 will diesel because it's running too rich, or the timing is out of spec or both.

What happens is the spark does indeed shut off with the ignition, however The Fuel in the cylinder fires without the spark plugs, or because of momentum keeps turning the engine for a short while. The 300 has more in comon with a diesel than it does a gas engine, why it's more prone to this problem. Carbon buildup and high engine temps can act like glow plugs on the cylinder areas, causing dieseling. Hence why it's called dieseling.


The idle speed can be set to spec. and it can still diesel because of another problem elsewhere.

 

I'll go with 4 &5, maybe 3, but advanced timing i dont see any relation other than it will cause a high idle