I just got done with my cab light project. I now have the ID/Clearance lights that I wanted from the factory, but they look oh so much better because i did them myself .

I found a kit on ebay for just under $90 shipped. It was cheaper than my dealership would sell them to me for, so I went ahead and waited the week for them to get here...I was busy anyway, so it was no big deal.

Once the kit came, I gathered my tools:

1/2" greenlee conduit punch (cuts a perfect 7/8" hole)
3/8" drill bit
1/4" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
masking tape
sharpie
long straight edge (I used a 48" fiberglass level with a ruler on it...it could bend around the cab to make great measurements)
plastic cup
T-20 torx driver
phillips screwdriver (not sure what size, I just checked fit and went)
5/16" socket w/ratchet
safety pin
tiny needle nose pliers
hammer
center punch
deburing knife
8mm nut driver

Once I was sure I had all of my tools, I began to take the interior apart. I have a regular cab, so that's the walkthrough I'm writing. First I took the covers of my A-pilars off. I used my thumb to pop the bolt covers off, then the 5/16" socket to remove the 4 bolts from each. A slight tug later they are off.

My headliner was not long enough to simply fold down or let hang, and it would easily fit out the door, so I took the whole thing down. The phillips screw driver takes out the 2 screws on each visor and the 1 on the visor supports. The torx driver takes out the hanger hooks on the rear. (be careful not to break the cover of the screws off...these things are $16 each from the dealership!)

Once the headliner is down, I traced the harness that goes to the dome/reading lights to a spot on the passenger wall. I disconnected this and tried to remove it. Unfortunately, the connector is larger than the hole it goes through...this is where the pliers and the safety pin come in. Take note of which wire goes where (draw it out so you don't have to remember), then use the pliers to remove the red retaining clip from the harness. Using the saftey pin, lift the locking tab for each of the cables so you can pull the cables out of the connector. Now the headliner can be removed and set aside.

The next thing I did was put the harness in its place, and connect it...this can be done after the lights are mounted, too. Remove the driver side panel and search for the connection. Run the new harness down near the A-pilar and into the dash in such a way that it can be connected to the existing wiring. Push the plastic rivets in where they line up, and that's it!

Next I got up top, standing on the front bedrail, I measured 10" back from the windshield glass at each gutter, and placed a piece of masking tape across the cab. I used the straight edge to check for straightness, and I used this piece of tape as a quick reference to double check all of my measurements.

I ran a few pieces of tape across the cab where the lights sit. This is so I could mark all over the cab and then just remove it when I was done.

I measured out the center of the cab, and drew a line from front to back. I then measured 8" out each direction (left and right) and made lines for the ID lights, then once more from the centerline 20.5" out for the clearance lights. At each one of these 5 lines, I measured 5.5" back from the windshield rubber and made a mark (this is the center of the 7/8" hole). Using my template, I placed the large hole over the 5 center marks and made small marks for each of the studs.

Here is the tricky part. I used my long straight edge to line up all 4 stud holes on the clearance lights. This makes sure the two lights are facing forward, not angled out or in. I did the same thing with the outside ID lights, and I measured the distance from the windshield rubber for each of the studs on the center ID light.

Once all of the marking was done, I went over every measurement one more time. Then started cutting. I taped my plastic up underneath each set of holes in order to catch the chips. I went light by light (so I could make adjustments if I had to). I made a punch mark for each of the three holes, and drilled all three with a 1/8" pilot hole. The stud holes got enlarged to 1/4" and the center hole got enlarged to 3/8" (for the greenlee punch). I then used the greenlee punch to make the center holes 7/8"...enough to clear the connector on the light.

Once the holes were made, I pulled the tape up for that particular set of holes and checked for burs. I used my deburing knife to remove any large burs from the drill and the punch (I left the edge raised just a little with the idea that it might press harder into the gasket on the base). Then I placed the light in and bolted it down using the nut driver (I got them as tight as possible with the straight driver with no leverage). I connected the lights one by one and checked them as I went.

once the lights were all up, I ran down the road to the touch-free carwash. I ran through a cycle without my headliner so i could check for leaks. No water came in with the high pressure jets, so I figured it was good. I went home and reinstalled my headliner, reconnected my dome/reading lights and put the A-pilars and visors back up...

done!

Pictures

 

Nice job on the install, the write-up, and the pics!

I have much respect for someone who's willing to drill that many holes in their roof! It turned out great and those knockout punches do work great for making holes in sheetmetal. I used a big one to punch the aux tank hole in my Early Bronco.

Reps sent!

 

This is great. I have been wanting to do this but hesitant until now. I will use this to do mine in the spring. Did you use any sealant to help prevent the holes from leaking?

 

Rep points for the write-up.

 

No sealant, I just went with the foam rubber gaskets that were there... I'm firmly opposed to silicone unless it's a last resort. I am going to pay attention to it during heavy rains and such, but as soon as the bases heat up and the plastic forms to my roof it should eliminate the rocking.

I still think these lights should have 3 bolts on them instead of 2. It's like legs on a chair... 2 legs isn't sturdy, 4 legs always has 1 that's too short, and 3 is just right.

 

very nice write up! that was the only thing additional that my truck is lacking!

 

Nice write up will be doing this in a few weeks.

 

I have a set to install on my 2006 F-250 Reg cab truck. My only concern is the center hole for each of the lights. I don't have a punch (no do I know how to use one) but I do have a set of step drill bits, I have been wondering if the use of the step bid would work...I can't see any reason It wouldn't. But sure would hate to screw up the roof of the truck.

 

The step drill will work, as will any series of drill bits that end with the correct size hole. The only difference is that with the drill bits, you will have a whole lot more chips instead of a nice clean punch slug.

 

TexasRebel,
Curious on your truck, what model is it (XL, XLT)? What seats are in it? Did you have to order it, I noticed it was a 6-speed manual...don't see to many manuals sitting on dealers lots now days.
Guess, I will get the tool out and do some hole drilling in the roof....I sure picked a bad time to give up drinking. On the other hand maybe now I will get the lights lined up right.

 

It's an XL with a bench seat (w/ integrated armrest)

I no longer had access to the truck I had originally used to pull a 10k# travel trailer so I started looking for something (either F250/350 or 2500/3500HD). Chevy dropped most of their sticks, but I happened to find a 2007 4x4 2500HD reg cab with a 5 speed manual T-case and a 6.0 with 3k miles (it was a dealer buyback and I was curious about it so I went to look at it)...so I didn't waste time, I looked for more trucks in the area and found a 2008 5.4 automatic F250 Reg cab w/CD player so on...also with 3k miles (it was a brand new used truck)

long story short...I looked at the Ford first. First thing I noticed was the 6 speed...(it wasn't advertised. I'm thinking that the dealer was having trouble selling sticks...little did they ever know the stick sold the truck). Dealer said the guy they sold it to 6 months prior traded it in for a bigger truck. It had AM/FM only, no TBC, the only extras really were power windows and locks, and the powered glass manual F/T towing mirrors (another selling point)

I picked it up for $17,200, swapped in an OEM radio from a 550 w/CD player, installed the TowCommand TBC and a new master cylinder, added my clearance lights and now I nearly have the truck I would have ordered...

the only things left are to add are:
remote keyless entry if it's not too much trouble (I've always wanted that)
Aerodynamic headlights (I'll wait until they start to hit ebay a little more, price is too high at the moment)
Fog lights (this'll probably be next becasue it's not too expensive and will improve lighting)

 

Do you have any electrician friends? Anytime I need one of those punches I just borrow it. They're actually kinda pricy to buy.

They're really easy to use and you'll see that if you lay your hands/eyes on one.

 

Nope don't know a soul that has a punch. I do have a couple step drill bits, which I guess is what I will use. Also have a few hole saw bits. From the photos I have seen the punch looks like an easy tool to use, and makes nice clean cuts, but my step bits will have to do the job even if it does make more shavings to clean up.

 

I did mine last summer.
All I used for mine was a hole saw bit. It was very slow because I didn't want to make too much of a mess, but it did turn fine after a little cleaning up of the holes after drilling.

Not to criticize TR's opposition on the sealant issue, but,,,
I used silicone to seal things up as a backup. I loaded up the dead air space in the seals ontop of the cab and covered the underside in the cab spreading out the silicon the best I could.
For the top,,, after you tighten the nuts the excess silicon is easy to clean up with your fingers and a rag. I can say with confidence that my lights are water tight.
I did exactly the same process on one of my old F-350 work Trucks years back. I had the Truck for some where around 5 years after I installed the cab lights and never saw a hint of corrosion or a drop of water even in the worst of rainy weather. The Truck didn't have a headliner in it so it was easy to keep an eye on it.
My thought behind using silicone was/is,,, fill in the dead air space between the underside of the lights and the exposed cab/headliner. Even if you get the foam seals on just right without using silicone it seems to me it's a good place for condensation to build up even if only very small amounts of it. Over the years I can't help but think it will slowly creep it's way into the cab and either cause rust and or water stains on the headliner.

BTW:
Great post TR. Thanks for taking the time. I had wanted to post a write up with photos when I did mine last summer, but I got so busy with work I completely lost touch with everything else. Most of the work was done at night in my driveway so most of the photos didn't even turn out so good.

Nice work TR...

Rick...

 

haha Unfortunately it hasn't rained here since i put them on. But after a storm or two I am going to pay attention to thing.

The thought that I had about condensation was that if there enough condensation on those tiny surfaces between the cab and the lights to make a drop...the condensation that will be on the top of the cab will do a lot more damage.