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polished fender bolts, what to do?

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Old 01-11-2009, 06:45 AM
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polished fender bolts, what to do?

so, finally getting to finishing the bed, and decided to test out the polished fender bolts I got year before last. oops.. they have the square head.. I have the round hole, JUST big enough for the bolt..

I'm not to keen to drill on the bed to make the holes bigger, and I can't talk to MF til monday. Anyone else face & solve this challenge?

thanks..

here is a pic of the wood being test fit (gas filler access door coming this week), new rear strip (taller for raised bed) in place, not yet polished.
proposed stain color in sample near right tub

(sorry for the ugly picture. used my phone instead of the camera)

Sam
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:07 AM
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That is a first rate job you are doing. I'd wait on the bolts and not try to make those fit the bed sides. I had the same issue with mine, ended up using stainless button head allen bolts and washers.
brian...
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by 9teen56f100
That is a first rate job you are doing. I'd wait on the bolts and not try to make those fit the bed sides. I had the same issue with mine, ended up using stainless button head allen bolts and washers.
brian...
thanks on the kind words.. cause of the airbagged rear, I had to raise the bed 3/4in, basically on top of the bed side sill, instead of under it.

that forced all the other stuff to change.. had to put spacers under the bed cross rails, and special spacers front & rear.. I am using the no bolt polished strips, so the rear lip cover also has to be no bolts showing (on top)..
the wood will be clamped one screw/washer each between the boards, under the rear lip cover, and then the rear cover will be secured from the rear gate side into the spacer... (mostly decorative). with stainless countersunk screws.

course I had to cut the boards around the tubs, altho I measured 100 times, cut once, I'm not too happy about the fitment here. I didn't have a sheetmetal brake when I put the flange on the bottom of the tub wall for strength, so I had to make one (brake).. and I got a little bow in the tub wall..(bummer)..Once again, I should have taken them to a professional (like I did for the end strip).

on the bolts. thanks.. ick on the allen button head.. I hate those little places that catch uck..

Sam
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 08:53 AM
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You know what to do Sam. I do know how you feel tho, you've got a day off to do it, you have some fasteners that you can prolly MAKE work, you're hoping one of us will say " go ahead Sam, those things will work fine". UH UH. Wait for the right stuff.
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by raerjim
You know what to do Sam. I do know how you feel tho, you've got a day off to do it, you have some fasteners that you can prolly MAKE work, you're hoping one of us will say " go ahead Sam, those things will work fine". UH UH. Wait for the right stuff.
So there is the potential answer.. for some reason I have the WRONG stuff.

I wouldn't have gone ahead.. this is NOT the way to do it..

Thanks..

Sam
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by sdetweil
So there is the potential answer.. for some reason I have the WRONG stuff.

I wouldn't have gone ahead.. this is NOT the way to do it..

Thanks..

Sam
Hi Sam,

I would say (if I am interpreting the problem correctly) that you have the wrong bed strips. Some are made to show bolts and some aren't. I used the stainless steel strips made for the bed when I constructed my radio deck, and they had square holes - and the bolts (carraige bolts - square neck under a dish shaped cap) fit perfectly! I would inquire with the folks you got them from. Meanwhile here's a picture of the stereo deck strips!




Good Luck,

Julie!

PS Are you using stainless strips or chrome? I've used both and the stainless polish up as bright as chrome (they are inthe picture above) but require a LOT less maintenance. Yours already look like the stainless, but I was jsut thinking if you need to swap them out anyway, I'd just throw that in as food for thought.
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Julies Cool F1
Hi Sam,

I would say (if I am interpreting the problem correctly) that you have the wrong bed strips. Some are made to show bolts and some aren't. I used the stainless steel strips made for the bed when I constructed my radio deck, and they had square holes - and the bolts (carraige bolts - square neck under a dish shaped cap) fit perfectly! I would inquire with the folks you got them from. Meanwhile here's a picture of the stereo deck strips!




Good Luck,

Julie!

PS Are you using stainless strips or chrome? I've used both and the stainless polish up as bright as chrome (they are inthe picture above) but require a LOT less maintenance. Yours already look like the stainless, but I was jsut thinking if you need to swap them out anyway, I'd just throw that in as food for thought.

these are NOT for the strips, but for the fenders to the bedsides.
one for the stock style dimple tops can be seen in the very lower right (not tightened)


actual bolt


I am using the no bolt poilished stainless strips with the T bolt retainers on the bed wood..

(better bed picture here) two polished and two stock strips shown

sam
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 01:48 PM
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Sam, it seems to me that you just "can't put a square peg in a round hole". You will either have to file your holes square(probably mess up that beautiful paint job, or use something like the button head bolts you hate.

Or as usual, am I misreading the problem?
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by B/B ford
Sam, it seems to me that you just "can't put a square peg in a round hole". You will either have to file your holes square(probably mess up that beautiful paint job, or use something like the button head bolts you hate.

Or as usual, am I misreading the problem?
Or, I could enlarge the holes to seat the square shoulders..

Sam
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 02:49 PM
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If it were me, I would chuck each one up in my metal lathe and make the square on the bolt round. A couple of minutes each.
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 02:58 PM
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Nice Truck!!!!!

What year is your truck?? Just curious...
My Dad always tells me stories of a Red '53 Ford he used to have..
Keywords : "used to"... I have to pick on him all the time.. of course, back then,
people didn't think their old stuff was worth hanging onto.. like his '58 Buick, his
'60 Chevy BelAir hardtop, or his '56 Pontiac Chieftain... If only I was alive back then....


1975 Ford F100 302 V8 38,000 miles
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Microchudd
What year is your truck?? Just curious...
My Dad always tells me stories of a Red '53 Ford he used to have..
Keywords : "used to"... I have to pick on him all the time.. of course, back then,
people didn't think their old stuff was worth hanging onto.. like his '58 Buick, his
'60 Chevy BelAir hardtop, or his '56 Pontiac Chieftain... If only I was alive back then....
1975 Ford F100 302 V8 38,000 miles
thanks.. its a 55.. see my gallery..

sam
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 49willard
If it were me, I would chuck each one up in my metal lathe and make the square on the bolt round. A couple of minutes each.
yes, I would too.. IF I had the lathe..

Sam`
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:23 PM
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1st of all, cool truck...I particuarily like the tubs. Not to get off topic but did you make them or adapt them for something else?

Maybe I'm off-beat here, but I though their was a tool to punch square holes in sheet metal. Something similar to the tools used to re-skin doors, only it's an actual punch. I think their called a "Sheet Metal Punch". They do either round or square holes depending on the ones you buy. Just an idea...hopefully...they do a better job or punching holes...then I do typing
 
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Old 01-11-2009, 06:50 PM
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There's a reason that the bolts have a square shoulder...that's what keeps the bolt from turning when the nut is tightened. Remove the shoulder or enlarge the hole in the bed and now you have no way of holding the bolt secure when you tighten the nut. Greenlee or other manufacturers make nice square punches just for this job. Punch the holes square, any damage to the paint should be hidden by the head of the bolt.
 


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