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I flipped from the front tank to the rear and had the odd experience of the fuel gauge being pegged all the way beyond full. Both tanks were that way. Looking at how the gauge and senders work it looked as if infinite resistance in the circuit would produce this result. Since it was both tanks I was lead to the tank selector valve. Pulled it out and ran through the Ford tests, voltage on pins one and two, yep, voltage from pin two to ground, got it. Jumper pin one to battery positive, pin two to negative, nothing. Ok the motor is dead. I was stuck between tanks and although I'd managed to start the truck by rolling it back onto level ground I wasn't too thrilled by the thought of buying 5 gallons of diesel to see if it would run on the front tank so I decided to look for the valve locally.
Called around, dealer only item. Fine called Holmes Tuttle, sure we've got one $231. What list is $178? I go look on their website, it comes up at msrp. ftepartsguy has it at $120. Only problem is the truck is blocking my yard and moving it is looking like no fun. I called the dealer back and asked why they were $50 over list when their website had it at msrp. Talk to my manager was the answer. He calls back and says local pricing is what it is. They look at the incoming phone number on the call and get a pricing code. He overrides it and I buy the part for $50 more than online but I have it today. Funny way to do business. They wanted $28 apiece for glow plugs when I wanted those. I did buy those from ftepartsguy. I bought 2 cheap Delcos and crossed my fingers for the 3 days it took the real set to arrive.
Plugged the new valve in and the gauges returned to normal. The switch in the valve had been stuck half way between the two sender contacts. The diagnosis and fix were simple enough but buying local sure isn't looking like much of an option for the future. I should have just paid the 55 overnight shipping to spite the local guys but with the driveway blocked it didn't make any sense.
I have posted in the past. It has been awhile. For anyone looking for this valve the original part number was E7TB-9F271-AA the new number is 63CZ-9189-A I hope yours goes bad on one tank or the other not in between. Buy it in Nevada or Washington state, it will be a lot cheaper.
1988 Superduty Dually, 7.3 IDI 5 ZF-5 long chassis with an 11 foot utility bed
I have posted in the past. It has been awhile. For anyone looking for this valve the original part number was E7TB-9F271-AA the new number is 63CZ-9189-A I hope yours goes bad on one tank or the other not in between. Buy it in Nevada or Washington state, it will be a lot cheaper.
Well it finally got up to a balmy 59 degrees so I checked the valve. The number I found was on the end oppisite the fuel connections. Also "POLLOCK" was stamped on the side.
The number on the end was E7TB 9F271 AA That was as close as I could figure it out. I got most of the dirt off but it still had some so the numbers might be missing a little.
Well it finally got up to a balmy 59 degrees so I checked the valve. The number I found was on the end oppisite the fuel connections. Also "POLLOCK" was stamped on the side.
The number on the end was E7TB 9F271 AA That was as close as I could figure it out. I got most of the dirt off but it still had some so the numbers might be missing a little.
THANK YOU,THANK YOU, THANK YOU!! I think I'll be switching the valve next weekend. I have a full rear tank and right now can't touch it unless I siphon it out.
My valve went bad halfway between tanks, I found that by switching the valve back and forth rapidly while someone tapped on it, It went into place on the back tank, Then I left it there until I got the new valve.