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The 292 2v in my 63 F600 is in really good shape, its been rebuilt, excellent running motor, although the carb should be rebuilt or replaced.
I would like to have a little more power, I have a HEAVY truck even before you load it.
Do I rebuild my carb and just run it?
Do I replace it with a progressive 2 barrel Webber maybe? Any one ever tried one of these?
Do I buy a four barrel intake and carb? And if so what would work well?
Or do I take the money it would cost for a new intake and carb and put a bigger engine in it?
If I replace the Carb on the current engine I am going to buy a NEW carb.
Also I think I may be neuterd by the exhaust...I have the crossover pipe..then the exahust dumps out on the pass side with a short with 1.5" pipe into a small muffler 1.5" in and 1.5" out on the muffler...I know the 292 is a small engine, but I am thinking duals would help....Think about having to drive your pickups wide open all the time...135 horse is not alot when you are 10,000lbs empty, and then throw another 10,000lbs on for load...
So what would you do to your 292 if your Pickup weighed 20,000 lbs??
Your experiences with these engines would be helpful.
I would also run through the Y block section of this forum and post this question. Zillions of folks used to hot rod Y blocks back in the day, it looks like a few of those old timers are in there. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum56/
I browsed it and their are some folks doing incredible things to these motors.
For a quick and relatively inexpensive "fix" you could pickup a 4 bbl manifold (available fairly often on e-bay for $75 or so for the older type for a smaller base carb) use an adapter and put a newer large base carb. Plus you can gain some oomph by installing headers ($225 from Reds Headers) or a set of the Ram's Horn manifolds for about $350 from John Mummert. Edit: I forgot to mention that I'm a bit of a purist and not much for installing newer engines.
Greg: Just curious, but are you sure your engine is a 292? I was thinking that the big trucks had the 335 engines (which I understand look like the car/pickup Y blocks from the exterior). The 335's were designed for more torque (pulling power) and not speed.
Sj bikesawas, I don't want go as far as porting heads and buying cam and lifters, and a new carb....I am a poor ******* like alot of us All kinds of cool stuff if money was no object.
Grits, so the old cast iron 4 barrel intakes won't take a modern four barrel without an adapter eh? A small Holley or Edlebrock won't fit?? Not really keen on adapters, you wind up spraying fuel on the adapter plate....takes atomized fuel and turns it into drips.
Don't get me wrong, I'm all about trying to find the most cost effective way to wake the old girl up.
That's my understanding. The old manifolds used the "teapot" carbs. I would think a "good" adapter would be tapered so that the fuel would flow unobstructed. The "B" manifolds are frequently available on e-bay but are more expensive. BTW: If you don't care how it looks, you can always do "redneck" headers like are on my Uni. Basically he PO cut off the crossover pipe on the drivers side leaving a nub and then welded a flex pipe that curves down and back to the mufflers. Looks like crap but is effective.
Works great. Only the center carb is hooked to the throttle right now. The PO put a Carter carb in the middle (the two out board carbs are Stromberg 97's) which places the throttle on the opposite side of the engine. Runs like a scalded dog with just the one carb working...spins the 235's on the rear with no problem. Brakes are shot so stopping is more of a concern right now that going forward. Almost finished with my garage so I can get it inside and start on the disc brake install. Hope to find a reasonably priced 97 to rebuild/have rebuilt to replace the center carb and get the linkage back to working order. Reds headers are also on the schedule (unless I win the lottery and then I'll buy the Ram's Horns).
That's my understanding. The old manifolds used the "teapot" carbs. I would think a "good" adapter would be tapered so that the fuel would flow unobstructed. The "B" manifolds are frequently available on e-bay but are more expensive. BTW: If you don't care how it looks, you can always do "redneck" headers like are on my Uni. Basically he PO cut off the crossover pipe on the drivers side leaving a nub and then welded a flex pipe that curves down and back to the mufflers. Looks like crap but is effective.
The 1954/56 256/272/292 4V manifolds are for the old teapot carb, and will not accept a newer 4V carb, because the teapot has a smaller bolt pattern.
The 1955 4V manifold won't work at all because the choke is mounted on the manifold itself!
The 4V manifolds used on 1957 Fords and Birds with 292/312's will work with the newer 4V's.
1957's did away with the teapot carb, and came with the 4V Holley double pumper.
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