When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Having an issue tracking down my problem. I have a 91 f150, 5.0 efi. Just the other day, it started becoming hard to start, it would sit there and crank, but would take a few tries to start. Got worse over a period of a few days. Now this morning, it will only crank. I checked, and the fuel is coming through the filter, so it's getting gas, and there is spark present when I pulled one of the plugs off. Any ideas? The pump is coming on when I turn the key
I was hoping to get around renting the code reader - as it is, the vehicle is not moving - but I think that may be my next step. Although, I may try changing all the plugs first. They need it, but up until last week (when it sat for approximately 9 days) it started right up, every time.. no hesitation.
-put a paperclip in the STI and the SIG RTN to start the test, and leave it in there
- then stick the voltmeter into the #4 then count the light pulses, sort of like a visual "morse code"?
Yes jumper between STI and SIG RTN, but if your check engine light is working, you can watch it blink instead of using the voltmeter/test light setup. In a way it is similar to a visual morse code, except it's all dots and no dashes with a couple different lengths of time between flashes.
Okay, so I can just put the paperclip in the two connectors, then get in the car, turn it to the on position and watch the blinks of the check engine light?
fordfuelinjection.com has a good write up on doing KOER (key on engine running) and KOEO (key on engine off) tests with either a ground wire and voltmeter or a paper clip and the CE light.
I use the paper clip method, might take a few tries to get the sequence down correctly, but it's cheaper than a reader.
Okay, so I can just put the paperclip in the two connectors, then get in the car, turn it to the on position and watch the blinks of the check engine light?
Exactly right. Have a look at the flash sequence example on that page I linked to earlier, and you should be ready to count the flashes.
I had this problem, or at least a similar one. And I know the answer! Well, I think...
Check your grounds. I heard it a million times from my Dad and I did, I even added in new ones. And it did nothing. There is part of the wiring harness thats by your battery. (Front passenger side fender area) Should be attached to front of the truck. A wire sticks out going to the negetive post on your battery. Make sure that this is there.. unless it never was then ignore the rest of this! Anyways, if it is make sure its secured to negetive and that your wire is good to it.
My engine wouldnt start when I put it in because I didn't reattach this. (Little tiny wire that got overlooked.) And after I got it started and drove it for awhile it would die randomly, I would jiggle the wire and it would work. I now have a new wire put on it. (There was an extention crimped on that was bad.)
If you have any questions or figure out your problem let me know!
Oh yeah, and when this happend to me I tested my injectors thinking it was them and it did all sorts of crazy things to the tester light.
Truck is Fixed! It was the ACT sensor... It appears that it was allowing too much fuel to pass through into the throttle. $16 part at Auto zone, and she's back to running again. Thanks for all the help guys.. escpecially the paperclip trick, definately will save my butt again in the future! Thanks again...
Truck is Fixed! It was the ACT sensor... It appears that it was allowing too much fuel to pass through into the throttle. $16 part at Auto zone, and she's back to running again. Thanks for all the help guys.. escpecially the paperclip trick, definately will save my butt again in the future! Thanks again...
did you not get the memo about parts from autozone?