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Got Fuel And Spark

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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 12:22 PM
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STRANGER RANGER2's Avatar
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Got Fuel And Spark

Having an issue tracking down my problem. I have a 91 f150, 5.0 efi. Just the other day, it started becoming hard to start, it would sit there and crank, but would take a few tries to start. Got worse over a period of a few days. Now this morning, it will only crank. I checked, and the fuel is coming through the filter, so it's getting gas, and there is spark present when I pulled one of the plugs off. Any ideas? The pump is coming on when I turn the key
 
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 01:40 PM
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quicklook2
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codes are your friend, read them.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 05:13 PM
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I was hoping to get around renting the code reader - as it is, the vehicle is not moving - but I think that may be my next step. Although, I may try changing all the plugs first. They need it, but up until last week (when it sat for approximately 9 days) it started right up, every time.. no hesitation.

BTW - I like your quote quicklook2...
 
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 05:17 PM
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You can get the codes without a code reader -- all you need is a paperclip. See here: EEC IV Self Test hookup to read how.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 05:25 PM
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so if I'm readin this correctly, would I:

-put a paperclip in the STI and the SIG RTN to start the test, and leave it in there
- then stick the voltmeter into the #4 then count the light pulses, sort of like a visual "morse code"?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 05:28 PM
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Yes jumper between STI and SIG RTN, but if your check engine light is working, you can watch it blink instead of using the voltmeter/test light setup. In a way it is similar to a visual morse code, except it's all dots and no dashes with a couple different lengths of time between flashes.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 05:31 PM
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Okay, so I can just put the paperclip in the two connectors, then get in the car, turn it to the on position and watch the blinks of the check engine light?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 06:48 PM
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fordfuelinjection.com has a good write up on doing KOER (key on engine running) and KOEO (key on engine off) tests with either a ground wire and voltmeter or a paper clip and the CE light.

I use the paper clip method, might take a few tries to get the sequence down correctly, but it's cheaper than a reader.

Let us know the codes.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2009 | 09:14 PM
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Okay, so I can just put the paperclip in the two connectors, then get in the car, turn it to the on position and watch the blinks of the check engine light?
Exactly right. Have a look at the flash sequence example on that page I linked to earlier, and you should be ready to count the flashes.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2009 | 12:21 AM
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I had this problem, or at least a similar one. And I know the answer! Well, I think...

Check your grounds. I heard it a million times from my Dad and I did, I even added in new ones. And it did nothing. There is part of the wiring harness thats by your battery. (Front passenger side fender area) Should be attached to front of the truck. A wire sticks out going to the negetive post on your battery. Make sure that this is there.. unless it never was then ignore the rest of this! Anyways, if it is make sure its secured to negetive and that your wire is good to it.

My engine wouldnt start when I put it in because I didn't reattach this. (Little tiny wire that got overlooked.) And after I got it started and drove it for awhile it would die randomly, I would jiggle the wire and it would work. I now have a new wire put on it. (There was an extention crimped on that was bad.)


If you have any questions or figure out your problem let me know!

Oh yeah, and when this happend to me I tested my injectors thinking it was them and it did all sorts of crazy things to the tester light.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2009 | 11:39 AM
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got my codes...

21 - ECT out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.
24 - ACT sensor out of self test range 0.3 to 3.7 volts.

So I am thinking I should just change out my Engine Coolant Temperature sensor? Any ideas or suggestions always appreciated!
 
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 08:16 AM
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Was the engine at operating temperature when you pulled those codes? Both of those codes can appear with good sensors on a cold engine.
 
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 10:22 AM
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Truck is Fixed! It was the ACT sensor... It appears that it was allowing too much fuel to pass through into the throttle. $16 part at Auto zone, and she's back to running again. Thanks for all the help guys.. escpecially the paperclip trick, definately will save my butt again in the future! Thanks again...
 
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 10:44 AM
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Wow thats interesting. Act sensor would keeep truck from runniing?
 
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Old Jan 11, 2009 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by STRANGER RANGER2
Truck is Fixed! It was the ACT sensor... It appears that it was allowing too much fuel to pass through into the throttle. $16 part at Auto zone, and she's back to running again. Thanks for all the help guys.. escpecially the paperclip trick, definately will save my butt again in the future! Thanks again...
did you not get the memo about parts from autozone?
 
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