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Greywolf, he would have a cap & rotor & should definitely be junk if even 20k miles. So yeah, pull 'em if any doubt. Funny, it usually goes more abruptly though from passable to nothing. A royal pain to work on depending on corrosion & mileage, but worth it. Lie on top of the engine & a fender or core support if necessary. If the distributor cap screws get welded in badly enough, it may be easier to remove the whole thing & find a used one. I had to drill one out & run a bolt & nut to one side on 1 of my trucks.
I've got a 2.3 - bee-atch of a job to get a complete set of plugs in it anyway, which is why I went platinum. I never looked back when I left the part store with silicone supressed wires.
ok, i'll have to get under there tomorrow and take a look, the plug wires i know have less then 5000 on them, along with cap and rotor, but dont know about plugs
I had a similar issue with my 2.9....and after unhooking the battery cable for an extended period of time the engine starts great. I have no explanation other then computer must have reset itself and cleared something out. I also allow the fuel pump to prime the system before cranking the engine with colder starts especially in the winter.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.