82 f150 starting problems
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82 f150 starting problems
i have a 82 f150 with a 460. i have recently had problems starting it. its my play truck and i go mudding with it etc. lately it doesn't want to start. i have to jump the solenoid with a screwdriver to start it. and before this happened my steering wheel doesn't even lock when my key is out. and the day that happened smoke was coming from my key switch. and today my voltmeter gauge stopped working. now I'm thinking my connection to my starter is probably muddy but it has to be in my key switch also. i would like to just put a toggle switch for my starter since its just a play truck.. would that be harder than to fix my key switch? need some advice..
thanks.
thanks.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
locks; and, the ammeter no longer works (assuming factory ammeter here, not voltmeter).
And, you're blaming this on dirty connections under the hood? C'mon, dude, where's your
troubleshooting skills?
Certainly, the easiest thing is to merely add a remote hotwire switch to replace your
screwdriver connection at the solenoid. But, that is just dealing with the symptoms of
the problem, ignoring the problem itself (which is still there). If you choose that route and
ignore the true problem, don't be surprised if your fusebox or dash wiring someday
erupts in flame.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Your little pot metal piece that actuates the ignition switch is probably broken in the steering column. It happens all the time, I don't know why Ford didn't make it a beefier piece.
It is a pain to replace, so I you want to hot wire the start function, there are several ways you could do it if you didn't want to fix it.
The most obvious is to run a fuse wire from the bat + into a switch in the cab, and back out to the solenoid.
A slicker option, but a little more involved would be to take the u-bolts loose under the dash and let the steering column drop down so you can see the ignition switch that is on top of the column, under the dash. You could then get some of those crimp splicing blocks, and tap into the yellow wire, and the red/blue wire going to the switch. Run these two wires over to your added pushbutton. Which reminds me of something;
Besides the piece in the column broken, your neutral safety switch could have a problem. This is on the clutch pedal if it's an manual tranny, and on the side of the tranny if it's an automatic. Either one should have two red/blue wires going in. If you jump these wires together, it will bypass the switch.
It is a pain to replace, so I you want to hot wire the start function, there are several ways you could do it if you didn't want to fix it.
The most obvious is to run a fuse wire from the bat + into a switch in the cab, and back out to the solenoid.
A slicker option, but a little more involved would be to take the u-bolts loose under the dash and let the steering column drop down so you can see the ignition switch that is on top of the column, under the dash. You could then get some of those crimp splicing blocks, and tap into the yellow wire, and the red/blue wire going to the switch. Run these two wires over to your added pushbutton. Which reminds me of something;
Besides the piece in the column broken, your neutral safety switch could have a problem. This is on the clutch pedal if it's an manual tranny, and on the side of the tranny if it's an automatic. Either one should have two red/blue wires going in. If you jump these wires together, it will bypass the switch.
