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I am about to buy glow plugs and a glow plug relay, or so i think. i feel like i need to change my plugs, i cant even start my truck in 30 degree weather, but after looking at the prices i might just do the relay, not to sure just yet. anyway, i have been told that i have to replace the valve cover gasket when changing the glow plugs wich makes sense, but i was also told that there is some sort of a wire harness or assembly that breaks while pulling the valve covers most of the time, is this true, and if so should i just go with the gpr and see if that helps or should i just bite the bullet and do it all????
You can test your GPR. It typically works or does not. Easy to do. Gps can be tested too but less reliably. The Valve cover gasket is totally reusable. The harness will only usually break where it plugs in right at the center of the VC gasket. (so be careful with it as it gets brittle with age)
I just got home from work so I need to get changed. Hopefully someone will finish this up for you with the test procedures.
thanks, i am glad to hear that i dont have to buy the VC gaskets, i will test the gpr but i dont know how so hopefully some one will let me know so i can get on that..... what are the chances of the glow plugs actually being bad, there is about 222000 miles on the truck. if that matters
thanks, i am glad to hear that i dont have to buy the VC gaskets, i will test the gpr but i dont know how so hopefully some one will let me know so i can get on that..... what are the chances of the glow plugs actually being bad, there is about 222000 miles on the truck. if that matters
Chances are pretty good they ought to be replaced. Since everyone else seems preoccupied with other important technical threads, here is the procedure for testing the connector:
To check the harness ohm it at the Valve cover connector on the outside.
Pin Out
G G I I C I I G G
G=Glow Plug +
I = Injector +
C= Injector Common
***The injectors fire with a 115VDC signal from the IDM do not pierce to wires to test.***
Ohm between "I" and "C" to test the injectors, should be less than 5.0 Ohms
To check glow plugs Ohm between "G" and battery ground should be between 0.1 and 2.0 Ohms
To test the GPR, find the two large posts on the relay. One will have 12v at all times. The other won't. Hook to the one that does not with a VM and ground the other side to the engine. Have someone activate the GP cycle and observe the reading throughout the cycle. Look for a large drop which would indicate a problem. Large drop would be falling below 11v. Good luck.
Mike and the slow typing Tristan have already told you how to check the condition of things. I've pulled the valve covers on several trucks and never had to replace the gasket or wiring harness, so you should be good to go there.
In my opinion, glow plug life has less to do with mileage as with how much they are used. My glow plugs have 277k miles on them, but in the warm climate I live in, they don't get much exercise. My truck still starts at 20 deg. without being plugged in with no excessive white smoke.
If you do need to change your glow plugs (try the GPR first. MUCH easier) I can't say enough about re-torquing the rocker arm pedestal bolts and lower injector hold down bolts while you have the valve covers off.
Rockers circled in red to 20 ft-lbs
Injectors circled in blue to 120 in-lbs
I couldn't believe how much better my engine sounded after I did this to mine.
i have made my decision to just go ahead and change the glow plugs out and the relay so i can just get in there under the valve cover and torque the rocker and injector bolts. i am sure it really needs to be done and i may as well get it all over with. this is getting a little spendy but i already have noticed a huge differance. i did all the fluids today and there was a huge change in the tranny after i flushed it and the rear end feels much smoother. than you to everyone helping out with some advice i will let you all know how the glow plugs go.... it should be a fun one
check ebay for the glow plugs. I got a set for like 60 or so shipped to me just in case ill ever need to change them. I dont see anything getting cheaper so i just picked up a set of 8!
22 a piece seems a little much, my local dealer is selling them for something like 14 apiece oh well hopefully it will all work out i am getting excited to beable to start my truck in the cold, it is 36* right now and i will prolly plug it in so i can get it started in the morning to go to the dealer to get the cps put in at the dealer....
Take a multimeter to the unbooted terminal on the GPR....turn key on and see if she reads 12 or so volts!
i just hooked up the L.E.D mod yesterday and tried it out but no light, i thought my engine might have been warm enough to not need them so i left it for the morning and still no light, if i put the multimeter on the GPR will it register even if my light i have fitted is not coming on. (this is asuming my L.E.D is not faulty).
ok so i put the red line from the multimeter onto the GPR where does the black one go, do i just ground it to the engine or battery or something. im going to give this a try in the morning and test the L.E.D aswell.
any tips on what to do or look for further before the morning will be greatly appreciated..
cheers
josh
Yea, just ground the black lead. Easiest one for me was straight to battery. Make sure your LED itself is grounded well. If you have easy access to the LED and have a few feet of speaker wire or something similar just disconnect the LED and hook it up to the speaker wire and run it straight to the battery and see if it works. Also, make sure the LED is a 12 volt LED and not something else. Not much more to look for. Thats why I like the LED mod, lets ya know if your GPR is working or not! If your LED works when you hook it straight to battery then you might have a bad GPR.
I dont know how cold it gets where you are but you should at least see it (LED) on initial startup for at least a sec or more!
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