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I need a complete service and rebuild manual or documentation for the Ford 5R55E automatic transmission used in the '97 Aerostar Electronic 4WD model. I will also accept this documentation on a CD if it is available. Call 740-236-4007 anytime or write to db1@pvpmedia.com . <TABLE summary="craigslist hosted images"><TBODY><TR><TD align=middle></TD><TD align=middle></TD></TR><TR><TD align=middle></TD><TD align=middle></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
The 5R55E is actually noticeably different. There are similarities, but the way they are set up is noticeably changed. I would suggest getting the 5R55E professionally rebuilt, since there are some wear issues that have to be addressed and corrected, and most DIYers are not properly tooled to handle that.
The 5R55E is actually noticeably different. There are similarities, but the way they are set up is noticeably changed. I would suggest getting the 5R55E professionally rebuilt, since there are some wear issues that have to be addressed and corrected, and most DIYers are not properly tooled to handle that.
I have rebuilt a number of different Ford Automatic transmissions and I have the tools and facility. However your reasoning is why I want the documentation. I started doing my own transmissions years ago because the so-called experts have screwed up too mant times. All the ones I did woprked well and far beyound expectations. They are just mechanical devices. If you have the tools and facility, proper documentation, and you take your time, There is nothing to worry about. I'm not what your idea of a DIYer is. This is why my post is specifically requesting documentation.
I have already located sources for parts as well as some heavy duty after-market parts and a new TC will be used. Basically I don't worry about wear factors because I usually change everything wear effects.
K, most of the rebuild is straightforward enough. The parts that get tricks are where the servos wear into the aluminum case. There are bushing kits made for these. If you buy a rebuild kit and bushing kit, that should give you all the parts you need. If you have experience doing other transmissions, then you will find that aside from doing the bushings, this should be straightforward. BTW, no service manual will have the info you need on the bushings. Do a Google search for 5R55E bushing kits for more info.
Also use a shift kit if available. It makes the shifts firmer, which may seem harsh, but it cuts down on the wear and heat. The way I like to describe it is it makes the shifting more decisive. These guys look like they should have a manual.
Thanks Man...
I just ordered it. I appreciate the link. I had heard about the VB problems and I suspect that was the major cause of the problems this one has. I will be checking out the other link you sent.
K, most of the rebuild is straightforward enough. The parts that get tricks are where the servos wear into the aluminum case. There are bushing kits made for these. If you buy a rebuild kit and bushing kit, that should give you all the parts you need. If you have experience doing other transmissions, then you will find that aside from doing the bushings, this should be straightforward. BTW, no service manual will have the info you need on the bushings. Do a Google search for 5R55E bushing kits for more info.
Also use a shift kit if available. It makes the shifts firmer, which may seem harsh, but it cuts down on the wear and heat. The way I like to describe it is it makes the shifting more decisive. These guys look like they should have a manual.
Thanks again,
I will check out the info on the bushing kits. I'm totally onboard with the shift kits and anything else that will beef up the tranny. My plans are to use the '97 Aerostar front and rear suspension and driveline including engine under a '53 Ford panel truck body. The electronic all wheel drive should make the thing totally Chick Friendly to drive and it should do good on mileage.
The E4WD system isn't nearly as sophisticated as other cars with full time AWD. It just locks up the differential between the front and rear axles when it detects a certain amount of speed difference between them. The front axle is open, so one of those tires can still spin on slick surfaces. If you have limited slip rear, as most of the E4WD Aeros do, at least that will keep both tires turning on slick surfaces. Still, it's much better than the 1WD of the non-E4WD Aeros.
Also use a shift kit if available. It makes the shifts firmer, which may seem harsh, but it cuts down on the wear and heat. The way I like to describe it is it makes the shifting more decisive. These guys look like they should have a manual.
I am far from an expert but from my understanding this is very good advice. As I understand it, one way to make smooth shifts (pleases the unknowing public) is to overlap gears, so basically there is slippage and heat buildup. As I understand it, Ford uses this method. The shift kit removes some or all of the overlap to reduce heat buildup and gives a more positive shift that is usefull for towing, but also is better for performance.
Actually I can firm up the shifts in my '92 Aerostar by inducing a tiny vacuum leak (filtered) in the line to the shift modulator, but that is not the best way (B&M sells a kit to do just this, waste of good money), for sure a shift kit in the valve body is best. I removed the "leak" from the Aerostar when either age or the switch to Redline ATF resulted in somewhat more firm shifting.
People say that it is possible to put LSD in front axe but Ford do not do it becouse LSD in front diff makes truck difficult to drive.
I'm sure that is a main reason for not putting it in a Soccer Mom vehicle like the Aerostar, but Ford has, and still does offer LS on the front diffs of their trucks. I had a '73 Bronco that we ordered new with LS on both ends as well as three other Ford one ton 4WD trucks including my currenr F-350 and two Explorers, which all had LS on both ends. You are right, they are a bear to steer on dry pavement when in 4WD or with hubs locked. However, since there is no reason to do that it, has never been a problem for me. The only problem I have ever encountered is driving on icy surfaces can be a real challenge because the front LS can do some crazy stuff on ice.
I am far from an expert but from my understanding this is very good advice. As I understand it, one way to make smooth shifts (pleases the unknowing public) is to overlap gears, so basically there is slippage and heat buildup. As I understand it, Ford uses this method. The shift kit removes some or all of the overlap to reduce heat buildup and gives a more positive shift that is usefull for towing, but also is better for performance.
Actually I can firm up the shifts in my '92 Aerostar by inducing a tiny vacuum leak (filtered) in the line to the shift modulator, but that is not the best way (B&M sells a kit to do just this, waste of good money), for sure a shift kit in the valve body is best. I removed the "leak" from the Aerostar when either age or the switch to Redline ATF resulted in somewhat more firm shifting.
Actually the method Ford uses to soften the shifts is by pulsating the engagement solenoids instead of engaging them outright. The pulsation is done electronically but if you use a shift kit, the increased pressure ensures that it fully engages anyway. The pulsation is the reason the bushing kits help, they fix the wear, and resist future wear causing by the buzzing solenoids.
I'm sure that is a main reason for not putting it in a Soccer Mom vehicle like the Aerostar, but Ford has, and still does offer LS on the front diffs of their trucks. I had a '73 Bronco that we ordered new with LS on both ends as well as three other Ford one ton 4WD trucks including my currenr F-350 and two Explorers, which all had LS on both ends. You are right, they are a bear to steer on dry pavement when in 4WD or with hubs locked. However, since there is no reason to do that it, has never been a problem for me. The only problem I have ever encountered is driving on icy surfaces can be a real challenge because the front LS can do some crazy stuff on ice.
Later Man...
Agree. For Ice it is really better to have 2wd van with manually engaging front axe (part time AWD). I have rear end LSD and it makes some crazy drift on ice and wet pavement. Front axe diff lock should be manual to prevent skidding when you do not need diff. to be locked.
But what Soccer Mom driving AWD truck may do? She gets in stuck, press gas pedal and digs in mud ore snow, then she understands that it is time to engage AWD, floor gas againe, dig front axe in, then locks all the axe diffs, shift T-case to low and asks someone to push her out. Truck runs, accelerates and she forgets to disengage AWD, LOW and DIFF Locks.... She tries to drive truck in curve, trucks skids, she turns steering wheel panicly, press brake pedal (but nothing like ABS, EBD, ESP) can help her to controll truck and..... some wrecked exotics....
So Ford think it is not good and makes simple ore sufisticated AWD systems.... Early with Dana all time AWD electronically locking, later cars have torsen ELSD (Volvo likes torsen....). Less reliability, more expenses, less off road ability, but more safety... to compensate Soccer Mom's irresposibleness.....
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