Removing e40d?
Thanks
My shop manual CD died, so I can't copy and paste the section in for you. I hope someone else can come through in that regard.
I have several tips though:
Rent a transmission jack unless you have two shop jacks and are really sure you're strong enough to keep the tranny in place. The tranny is really heavy (IIRC 350 lbs) and can really do a number on you if you drop it on yourself.
You can drain most of the fluid by sending the oil cooler return line to a bucket and running the engine to pump out the pan. (The return is at the rear). Turn the engine off once bubbles show up. Next drain the torque converter. If you roll the engine around, you will find a drain plug in the torque converter. Shoot compressed air back the disconnected oil cooler line and it'll blow out the cooler back to the torque converter and make the torque converter drain fast. Doing all this saves a lot on the messiness of the job - that way the cooler doesn't slowly drip empty once the lines are disconnected.
Don't block the engine in place until you take the top two bell housing to block bolts out. When you're at the step to take out the bell housing bolts off, lower the back of the transmission as far as it will go. That will give you the room to pull the top two bolts out. Once the two bolts are out, go ahead and raise the back of the tranny back up, then block the engine in place. Put the transmission jack on and go ahead and take the other 4 bolts out.
I found the job not to bad, about 6 hours to do it. I probably could do it again in 3-4 now that I know what to do.
You have probably have already done this but make double sure that the leak is in fact coming from the rear seal and not from higher up and traveling to the tranny. I recall several members having similar problems as yours only to find out it wasn't the rear engine or front tranny seal.
Rog



