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I'm wondering if my voltage regulator's wearing out. I noticed the charge reading's climbing a little on the dash & my handhelds show 15.4 Volts. I've always figured a good regulator should limit to quite a bit less than that (15.2 and prefer upper limit of 14.4?), but can't remember exactly & my books skip around that issue with Fords. When off, the battery shows a nice 12.2V or so. On the plus side, the radio probably getting plenty of power to jam with. Cheap headunits reportedly actually designed for optimum 15+ Volts for best results, so they can label it for higher max power output then typical.
Normally you want to keep the voltage below 15vdc. However, you could have that much variation in your meter. A good strong battery should have around 12.8vcd with everything off.
Even with a low battery voltage, the alternator should maintain around 14.7vcd, but it can vary with age. I wouldn't worry about it right now, and watch it for a while.jd
Darn it! Thanks Jim. I was watching it creep up on the dash gauge over the past weeks. The handheld is an Elenco I built myself in school from 2 kits (bad switch in 1) about 16 years ago. It's my most dependable meter. It also calibrates perfectly with my other digitals. Anyway, I think the heater hoses overheated the integral regulator. The wires were overly warm after mild errands mileage. Haven't had time to pull the wires yet as I just finished changing out drum rollers in the family dryer for what seems the 10th time. THAT's probably going to need the whole stainless drum soon. Do that & it should be good for 2 years straight without tear-down! Just cleaning.
On the truck, is there a good way to run an external style regulator without major alterations? Not sure of all the specs involved, but I know some Rangers have had fender-mounted units. My alternator's supposed to be basic 95 A unit, which I gather is the only spec for that year of Vulcan, at least available here.
Got it. I thought more on that foggy truck. Good puzzle. I'd like to get my ears near it. Hope it's no worse than any idea mentioned. I'd prefer not to think too much more about it until we get more feedback though. Ouch. He wouldn't want to hear the worst case sparking off the top of my head.
Can you convert to the old style alt-with the external reg??? Just a thought. Usually just pull my alts, and take them to the parts store to be tested. I know there's not much to an alternator if you understand how it ticks, just sometimes easier on the clock than the pocketbook...
I'm thinking something along those lines. Actually, I wonder if I could simply hook the existing terminals to an external or something like that, pretty much using the old one to keep the hole capped. I don't like how Ford has the heater hoses pretty much right up against a $60 regulator. Of course, I may be able to do something clever with the hoses. Or simple. On my last one, I put a second layer over the hoses where the hoses sat atop the alternator. This one has them running behind right at the regulator. I don't care for the looks of those hoses either, but one engine end looks like a ROYAL pain to fit, so I may wait for Sunday if the forecast is right. It uses 5/8" hoses & forces one end to a 3/4" engine fitting. Brainy move. I need the truck to be sound & ready all the time.
The current alt has a one plug set-up?? or is it a plug plus a terminal?? been a while since I did one(mine has original). Could get creative and find out what each wire in that plug does?? Maybe then you could hook up an external regulator??? Not sure of the logistics-might have to go back a few decades to get an alt without a regulator!!
It has the terminals separated pretty well. In that, it could be better than the German v6's I had. The part I don't get is why when I look the whole idea up, the consensus is to do as you said in changing out the whole thing for a much older type. I MUST be missing a key fundamental of the system. Maybe a reluctor or something in the rotor path? I have beat-up old copies of Chilton's & Haynes with the covers and some pages worn off. The Chilton's doesn't get to '93 and neither really seem to show much. Need to scour the stores & find a decent copy of Chilton's - then again probably better off with online sources. I'll look tomorrow & in meantime, I have info from therangerstation, but I'm not seeing the kernel today. Bother.
My Chiltons is book #26688- 91-95 Ranger/Explorer/Mountaineer..page 2-18-says the integral type -"if the regulator is found to be defective, a new alt must be installed". You need to see what you have...
On pg#2-17 "Alt No-load test"...Connect Voltmeter positive to Alternator B+ terminal(battery), and connect negative to good engine ground..turnoff all accessories, and shut doors. Run up to 2000 RPM, and check voltage-should be between 13.0-15.0 volts. Hope this helps...
Yeah, I'm sure it's cooked if I'm getting over that at idle accessories or not. 15.4 is a low reading for me. Haven't been able to dabble further witht the goosing bit. I should be able to tach it around 2k by ear. Mostly, I'm wondering if I could run beefy wires to relocate it to a fender or the firewall. The wierd thing is the the regulator should have a nice supply of cool air but instead it's getting the alternator's waste heat & getting baked from the other side. I'm not going to replace it without taming that juggernaut. Maybe the rebuild shop down the street would know. About time I have a good excuse to give them some business.
Thanks for the support DRB. How're your projects coming along other than the vent control?
Not trying to do too much this weekend-worked half day Xmas eve, and 6 hrs Friday...That resistor is a PITA to get too, with the blower motor housing right there..Going to look at rear brakes on the Escape-park brake not working too good-have to pull all the way up to get it to engage, otherwise it won't hold vehicle in the driveway....
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