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I pulled off the old rotted hoses, which may or may not have been leaking. Once they were off I used a vacuum pump and checked the hub assemblies to see if they might be holding a vacuum. Both hub assemblies held a vacuum for over 15 minutes with out moving the needle at all. Soooo, I am thinking that the hubs are okay... Any thoughts? (replaced the hoses for less than $ 5.00) I am guessing that the next step is to pull out the 12v tester and start checking the electrical parts at the Transfer Case. Perhaps the motor has seized up. I am interested in knowing if anyone has had similar problems, and what they did to discover their problem, and how they fixed it.
By the way, I am really appreciative of all the help and ideas. This is working great for me.
You’re absolutely right; I broke apart the hubs trying to free them. I now have Mile Marker Manual Hubs #MMK-449SS. If I need 4WD I lock them, when I don't I unlock them.
Steve, did you disconnect anything on the vacuum system when you went to the manual hubs? I just changed over to the Mile Marker hubs also, and I think that I should block off the vacuum hoses, but where?
Steve, did you disconnect anything on the vacuum system when you went to the manual hubs? I just changed over to the Mile Marker hubs also, and I think that I should block off the vacuum hoses, but where?
Thanks !
An article I read last night regarding swapping out factory hubs for aftermarket said to put a BB into the vacuum line. My guess is you plug it into the line that you pull out of the factory hub. Something about tricking the computer so it won't throw a SES light. Guessing the guy who swapped hubs on the SRW did this because I've never seen a SES.
To the poster who mentioned the vacuum problem with the heat controls.
This occured in the SRW a year or so ago. The heat and ac would only work out of the defrost vents. You could go under the passenger floor board and make the floor vent work but as soon as you let go it would go back to the defrost. My mechanic plugged the vacuum line going to the front end at the vacuum pump and that fixed the problem. With Warn hubs the vacuum lines up there are useless anyways. Maybe the BB's fell out?
An article I read last night regarding swapping out factory hubs for aftermarket said to put a BB into the vacuum line. My guess is you plug it into the line that you pull out of the factory hub. Something about tricking the computer so it won't throw a SES light. Guessing the guy who swapped hubs on the SRW did this because I've never seen a SES.
To the poster who mentioned the vacuum problem with the heat controls.
This occured in the SRW a year or so ago. The heat and ac would only work out of the defrost vents. You could go under the passenger floor board and make the floor vent work but as soon as you let go it would go back to the defrost. My mechanic plugged the vacuum line going to the front end at the vacuum pump and that fixed the problem. With Warn hubs the vacuum lines up there are useless anyways. Maybe the BB's fell out?
I appreciate the info. I am going to cap the vacuum lines with something, but probably not a BB. I'd be afraid that they would be sucked into a not-so-nice place
Looks like my problem is being narrowed down to electrical. I priced the actuator motor from my Ford Stealership... $607.38. Cough, choke... I found the same part from MonsterAutoParts.com for $139.95. Anyone know if this is a good part?
...what they did to discover their problem, and how they fixed it.
By the way, I am really appreciative of all the help and ideas. This is working great for me.
Here's an idea before you start spending too much $ on something you really don't have a thumb on yet...
Take your X to your mechanic and have him/her diagnose the problem for you... It could save you some cash in the long run, as well as less headaches!!
Steve, did you disconnect anything on the vacuum system when you went to the manual hubs? I just changed over to the Mile Marker hubs also, and I think that I should block off the vacuum hoses, but where?
Thanks !
Check out these links, they should answer your questions They actually make vacuum block-off caps