Adding a plug-in heater?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
x2 .. 8 amps is correct.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,756
Likes: 38
From: Nampa, ID
Bingo. The engine is cold. It's as if I hadn't plugged in at all.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,756
Likes: 38
From: Nampa, ID
After my eye appointment at the VAMC, I contacted my Ford parts-guy, service-gal and mechanic that I trust. I explained what was happening (or not happening in this case), what I had done and what we discussed here at FTE.
The mechanic said it was most likely the element, since the cords sounded good. The parts-guy had an element in stock for $51. I talked him down to $38. When I went to pay for it, I gave the cahier my "Owner's Advantage" number to see if I had anything available. I didn't think I did, but she said I had 44 points available. I used some of my points and the item was free.
I do need to go to the "tool" store to buy a 1-1/8" deep-well socket to do the R&R. Hopefully, I can get the truck started for the rest of this week so I can do the R&R this weekend.
I changed my GPR while it was snowing. High temps for this week will be in the teens and low-20s with more fluffy stuff coming in by this weekend. I don't have a place big enough to do this indoors, so I forced to do it outside. I need the engine cooled off for the swap. I have to relieve the cooling system pressure before trying to swap out the heating element. Hopefully, my fingers won't be too frozen and I won't loose too much coolant.
Thanks for everyone's help on this. I appreciate it.
The mechanic said it was most likely the element, since the cords sounded good. The parts-guy had an element in stock for $51. I talked him down to $38. When I went to pay for it, I gave the cahier my "Owner's Advantage" number to see if I had anything available. I didn't think I did, but she said I had 44 points available. I used some of my points and the item was free.
I do need to go to the "tool" store to buy a 1-1/8" deep-well socket to do the R&R. Hopefully, I can get the truck started for the rest of this week so I can do the R&R this weekend.
I changed my GPR while it was snowing. High temps for this week will be in the teens and low-20s with more fluffy stuff coming in by this weekend. I don't have a place big enough to do this indoors, so I forced to do it outside. I need the engine cooled off for the swap. I have to relieve the cooling system pressure before trying to swap out the heating element. Hopefully, my fingers won't be too frozen and I won't loose too much coolant.
Thanks for everyone's help on this. I appreciate it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,756
Likes: 38
From: Nampa, ID
Reps sent. Thanks for your input.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,756
Likes: 38
From: Nampa, ID
Mine always reads in the cold range. After 3 hours plugged in it just barely moves but the "Wait to Start Light" tells the story. The only other thing I can think of is make sure you have a heavy duty extension and not one of those really small diameter ones. 15 ohms is right on target.
I don't know what temps you're seeing over there, but we've been down into the teens. Before this problem, my truck gauge would read at or above "N" after being plugged in for four hours. Have you tested your's lately? Maybe you're at the beginning of a problem.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
Jim, tried to rep you after the other two, but still gotta spread the love around.
I don't know what temps you're seeing over there, but we've been down into the teens. Before this problem, my truck gauge would read at or above "N" after being plugged in for four hours. Have you tested your's lately? Maybe you're at the beginning of a problem.
I don't know what temps you're seeing over there, but we've been down into the teens. Before this problem, my truck gauge would read at or above "N" after being plugged in for four hours. Have you tested your's lately? Maybe you're at the beginning of a problem.
That being said .. maybe I do have issues and just never knew it. I would be interested in other opinions and their experiences.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 1
From: Grass Valley, CA
Well I'm glad Ron told me where the plug was.
I plugged it in last night, and this morning, I was the only vehicle that wasnt iced over, and she fired right up... and was already almost warm...
Oh so nice...
I plugged it in last night, and this morning, I was the only vehicle that wasnt iced over, and she fired right up... and was already almost warm...
Oh so nice...
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Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 9,010
Likes: 5
From: Johnson City, TN.
Good tip!
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,207
Likes: 0
From: Kearney, Nebr
Does anyone know how much power these block heaters pull as far as the electricity bill? Just curious. I know the amount is reduced once the water jacket is warm.
Just doing some thinking if it's worth keeping a diesel running verse plugging it in. However, if you can plug it in I'm sure it's much cheaper.
Just doing some thinking if it's worth keeping a diesel running verse plugging it in. However, if you can plug it in I'm sure it's much cheaper.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
1000 W. I doubt it "reduces" the load; more likely it just shuts off thermostatically.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,526
Likes: 1
From: Grass Valley, CA
Neal- yes, I remembered Jim posting that tip- and that's why mine wasn't iced over.
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,207
Likes: 0
From: Kearney, Nebr
Yeah I knew it was a 1000W but how much on the cost? Is electricity sold in watts?
Edit: Dah, its sold has Kilowatts. Man, I love working nights, I have all day to not sleep and ponder this stuff. I wish.
Edit: Dah, its sold has Kilowatts. Man, I love working nights, I have all day to not sleep and ponder this stuff. I wish.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 8,476
Likes: 37
From: Madison, WI
Actually, it's sold in kilowatt-hours -- power * time = energy (remember unit analysis from high school chemistry/physics?). And the cost, of course, varies wildly by location. Here, we pay about US$0.13 / kWH, so about 39 cents to run it for 3 hours. Your cost per kWH should be on your electric bil (granted, deciphering the bill is a black art, compared to the otherwise simple math involved).
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,207
Likes: 0
From: Kearney, Nebr
Actually, it's sold in kilowatt-hours -- power * time = energy (remember unit analysis from high school chemistry/physics?). And the cost, of course, varies wildly by location. Here, we pay about US$0.13 / kWH, so about 39 cents to run it for 3 hours. Your cost per kWH should be on your electric bil (granted, deciphering the bill is a black art, compared to the otherwise simple math involved).
Thats for the clarification. I took some pretty tough chemistry/physics courses in college but I never had to apply the information...
Anyways running the block heater is cheap.