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engine turns but will not start....

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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 05:04 AM
  #1  
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engine turns but will not start....

hi all; my 2000 f-150 will spin normal but will not start, i replaced the fuel filter and the truck started normal then i parked it for 1 week,when i tried to start the engine spin but will not start, i checked fuel pressure at the fuel rails (30 psig),when it runs it works very good i do think its a fuel supply problem. any help will be apprecaited

mino54
 
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 08:13 PM
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Try pressing the gas pedal down a little and see if it will start.
 
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 03:04 PM
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Hey Mino, I'm having a pretty similar problem that I just posted above on a 2001.. I'm wondering about my fuel pump being intermittent....

Bobby what would the gas pedal pressing do to help the issue (not being sarcastic, hoping to learn...)? There's no accelerator pump is there, like a carb'd engine? That would only allow more air wouldn't it, lean the mixture?
 
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 03:22 PM
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The IAC, is the Intake Air Control valve. In a fuel injected engine, when the throttle is closed allowing no air to flow into the engine, the IAC opens to allow air flow. it commonly will gum up and stick. Sometimes it can be removed and cleaned but most just replace it. Good luck!
 
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 08:35 PM
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won't start....

hi all we have a weather condition and can not work on my truck. as soon as the weather lightsup a bit i will replace the electric pump relay (witch i already got) and clean or replace the IAC valve.
thank you all for your help
i will post the fix when WE find it

mino54
 
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 08:59 PM
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Bobby82490
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From: N. Fort Myers,FL
Originally Posted by Flooder305
Hey Mino, I'm having a pretty similar problem that I just posted above on a 2001.. I'm wondering about my fuel pump being intermittent....

Bobby what would the gas pedal pressing do to help the issue (not being sarcastic, hoping to learn...)? There's no accelerator pump is there, like a carb'd engine? That would only allow more air wouldn't it, lean the mixture?
The Idle Air Controller on these trucks are fairly notorious for becoming dirty or failing. The Idle Air Controller allows a metered amount of air into the intake at idle.

When they get dirty or fail, then no air goes into the intake. When you press the pedal slightly when starting it, it allows a small amount of air into the motor allowing it to start.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 12:34 AM
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Classic example of starting to replace parts before the issue is found.
Find the problem first then replace/repair the part.
Notice if the motor does not start when cold but does when hot; do clean the IAC first, not replace the relay first.
Good luck.
 
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Old Dec 18, 2008 | 09:25 PM
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troubleshooting ....

the first time it happen the engine was hot (normal temp) it did not start ( i am sure i pushed on the gas pedal as it was cranking), i had it towed to the house, there i replace the fuel filter the engine started right up, i drove around park the truck , a week later i tried to start it up (engine was cold) and again it did not start (i push on the gas pedal as it was spining).
this appeared to be a common problem among the f-150.
bad weather (lots of rain) prevented me from t/s this problem so the best i can do right now is to do it here in the internet and i thank you all for this invaluable help
the manual (chilton) says fuel pressure should be between 30 and 48 psi when i took a reading it was 30 psi at the rail port, since 30 is the low side could it be that the voltage to the pump is droped due to pitted relay points making the pump output to be lower thant the minimun 30 recuired for engine operation.

mino54
 
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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 02:08 AM
  #9  
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30 really is at the lower limit, but it is enough to get the engine started. It may not be enough at WOT. I would try starting the engine with the pedal depressed slightly. Do is start and run? If so does it die when you take your foot off of the pedal? YES: look closer at IAC.
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 06:25 PM
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t/s fuel pump.....

hi, i tried start the truck and nothing,i replaced the fuel pump solenoid and no help, removed the solenoid , turn ign key checked for voltage a solenoid pin 65 and 30 got 12 v. at both pins, checked pin 60 to innertia kill switch at pass side panel got continuity, check for volts at innertia kill switch with the ign key on got 12 v for 1 to 2 sec time then drops to nothing never heard the pump humming, took a continuity reading from the innertiakill switch red wire to grnd got very little resistance and good continuity, used a jumper cable
from battery positive to red wire on innertia kill switch and no pump noise or fuel pressure reading at the fuel rails, i think i got a death pump.
the tank is full of fuel.
is it easier to drop the tank or remove the bed
is it normal for the pump electrical supply to turn it self off after 2 seconds of operation?


mino54
 
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 06:57 PM
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I just went through a similar prob with my 99. Tested for voltage at inertia switch too and did get similar results (voltage drop after a few seconds - apparently "normal" according to Ford tech I know). The voltage doesn't go completely away, just drops down to around 2-3 volts. That ruled out everything except either an open circuit between the inertia switch and the pump or the pump itself. Unplugged harness at tank & performed same test...same results. Had to be the pump.
Dropping the tank was easy - only took about 15 minutes. Pulled the pump assy & bench tested it with 2 jumper wires direct to pos & neg from battery. Nothing. Got new pump assy from NAPA & installed. Problem solved. Hope this helps - Good luck.
 
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 03:30 AM
  #12  
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The pump will turn "OFF" after two seconds(normal). If the pump does not come "ON" and then turn back "OFF" you have a problem. It's easier to change the pump by taking the bed off if you can get the 6 bolts out. They are T50 torx and are prone to rust. If you get the bolts out all you have to do is remove the filler neck at the tank and disconnect the harness for the rear lites. At that point you get someone to help you slide the bed back far enough to see the pump. I would soak the bolt threads where they screw into the nuts under the bed with PB Blaster. If you can't get those bolts out you have to drop the tank which is a PITA if it is full. Actually it is a PITA dropping the tank even if it isn't full. The best way is to slide the bed back. You can only use this method on a pickup truck so you might as well take advantage of of this shortcut.
 
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 12:08 AM
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i or shall i say (WE) fixed it.................

Hi all,me and my buddy Jose removed he tank ( we started at about 11.00 am) it was a pain in the butt but it was our first time dropping the tank; (it was not too bad) jose had some cervezas in an ice bucket.... so we planned the next step (it all help) got our thinking stright put new pump in and raised the tank to position, a piece of cake ..............
after dos,tres o cuatro cervezas,me jose and steve got a solid brooom.broooom from our f-150; long story making it short the fuel pump replacement fixed the problem.
could not have done it without you guys..................

mino54,jose and steve .........
 
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