1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Brake Woes

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  #16  
Old 12-11-2008 | 12:17 PM
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The brake light is not on anymore, but it was on before I replaced the proportioning valve. I had it bleeding like the shop did on my last truck for a good 3 hours, no drips at all. But that was before I replaced both brake cylinders. I will go out right now and only open the back right? The front are perfect. The front of the master cylinder is the rear brakes, and the back of the cylinder is front correct?

Thanks guys, hopefully this will solve my problem

Taylor
p.s. In every state its illegal to have beer in the possesion of a minor possum, but in Arkansas its a 1100 dollar fine. BUT DONT TELL DAD!
 
  #17  
Old 12-11-2008 | 12:22 PM
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Forgot to mention guys, but the back of the truck is higher than the front of the truck because I have all 4 tires off, with the rear resting on stands and the front on plywood on the ground. Fluid wont gravity feed up hill will it?

Taylor
 
  #18  
Old 12-11-2008 | 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by zpmps2
Forgot to mention guys, but the back of the truck is higher than the front of the truck because I have all 4 tires off, with the rear resting on stands and the front on plywood on the ground. Fluid wont gravity feed up hill will it?

Taylor
LOL no I don't beleive it will

sounds like you need to get the front end up to bleeb this thing
 
  #19  
Old 12-11-2008 | 02:18 PM
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Actually, the rear being higher helps get all the air out. If you have a vehicle that is giving you problems bleeding, raising the problem side up helps the air bubbles migrate to the open bleeders. That's why if you notice, the bleeders are the highest point in the wheel cylinder. That's because the air rises to the top of the wheel cylinder.

You could have a problem if the bleeders were higher than the master cylinder, But I don't think it would be possible to get the rearend of the truck high enough that the bleeders were above the master cylinder would it? That would be some awfully tall jacks.
 
  #20  
Old 12-11-2008 | 03:09 PM
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I'm telling you, this is the best tool out there for doing this kind of work. You can get a Mityvac knockoff from Harbor Freight for about $12

 
  #21  
Old 12-11-2008 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Actually, the rear being higher helps get all the air out. If you have a vehicle that is giving you problems bleeding, raising the problem side up helps the air bubbles migrate to the open bleeders. That's why if you notice, the bleeders are the highest point in the wheel cylinder. That's because the air rises to the top of the wheel cylinder.

You could have a problem if the bleeders were higher than the master cylinder, But I don't think it would be possible to get the rearend of the truck high enough that the bleeders were above the master cylinder would it? That would be some awfully tall jacks.
Ok franklin, and if i did get the big butt end of my truck I dont think the mastercylinder would be even 1/4 way full. Its not gravity feeding, so my next step is to wait til my "lil" helper gets home (big brother) so we can try our hands on rear brakes.

Will post back guys

Taylor
 
  #22  
Old 12-11-2008 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
Actually, the rear being higher helps get all the air out. If you have a vehicle that is giving you problems bleeding, raising the problem side up helps the air bubbles migrate to the open bleeders. That's why if you notice, the bleeders are the highest point in the wheel cylinder. That's because the air rises to the top of the wheel cylinder.

You could have a problem if the bleeders were higher than the master cylinder, But I don't think it would be possible to get the rearend of the truck high enough that the bleeders were above the master cylinder would it? That would be some awfully tall jacks.
While technicaly true, not at all practical. The air in the line flows with the fluid and anywhere there is a large cavity it can only be blead there. The elemination of abilty for gravity to do the work is not worth it.

The ultimate bleeding is to pressure bleed from the wheel but this is a pain and takes special equipment.
 
  #23  
Old 12-12-2008 | 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by uncle.stosh
I'm telling you, this is the best tool out there for doing this kind of work. You can get a Mityvac knockoff from Harbor Freight for about $12

Just bought a reseal kit for my old model 04000.
That thing has saved me so many times.
Good for testing for vacuum and and dashpot operation as well as torn diaphragms too!
 
  #24  
Old 12-13-2008 | 06:47 PM
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Okay guys, still no rear brakes! But the front are making the truck stop better than it did before. So the valve should be ok? Tried pulling the truck up on ramps and letting it gravity feed to that. BUT NOTHING! Need advice guys, PLEASE HELP ME!

Taylor
 
  #25  
Old 12-13-2008 | 08:26 PM
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Are you getting fluid out of the rear bleeders? And did you run a at least a full reservoir of fluid through the rear? It takes a little over one fill up to on a completely dry system in the rear?

If all that is ok, then I would check the adjustment of the rear shoes.
 
  #26  
Old 12-14-2008 | 02:18 AM
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Are you getting any fluid to the back? If you have someone hold pressure on the pedal while you open the rear bleeder, what happens? Does the pedal go down as it should? If it stays up there is a restriction between the master and the rear brakes. The thing to do then is with a helper holding pressure on the brakes loosen the line connections starting at the master and working back, using each fitting like a bleeder until you find the one that you can't get anything out of.
 
  #27  
Old 12-15-2008 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Opossum
Are you getting any fluid to the back? If you have someone hold pressure on the pedal while you open the rear bleeder, what happens? Does the pedal go down as it should? If it stays up there is a restriction between the master and the rear brakes. The thing to do then is with a helper holding pressure on the brakes loosen the line connections starting at the master and working back, using each fitting like a bleeder until you find the one that you can't get anything out of.
No fluid in the back guys, no pedal drop when I open the bleeders to. But when I leave the top cap off fluid shoots everywhere, so that means their is a clog or something right?

Thanks
Taylor
 
  #28  
Old 12-15-2008 | 10:38 AM
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fluid shooting from reservoir is normal. try bleeding the front, you can sometimes get the prop. valve to reset by dropping pressure in the front system.Then when you bleed the rear, open the bleeder and have big bro push down slowly on the pedal, close bleeder, let up repeat. Sometimes it helps if you dont let the pedal go all the way down
 
  #29  
Old 12-15-2008 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by zpmps2
No fluid in the back guys, no pedal drop when I open the bleeders to. But when I leave the top cap off fluid shoots everywhere, so that means their is a clog or something right?
Yup, you replaced the proportioning valve but it could have tripped again and getting those things to reset can be a b***h. Try bleeding it at the rear line going into the proportioning valve, have someone hold pressure at the pedal and loosen the fitting until fluid comes out or the line comes out.
 
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