Brake Woes
#16
The brake light is not on anymore, but it was on before I replaced the proportioning valve. I had it bleeding like the shop did on my last truck for a good 3 hours, no drips at all. But that was before I replaced both brake cylinders. I will go out right now and only open the back right? The front are perfect. The front of the master cylinder is the rear brakes, and the back of the cylinder is front correct?
Thanks guys, hopefully this will solve my problem
Taylor
p.s. In every state its illegal to have beer in the possesion of a minor possum, but in Arkansas its a 1100 dollar fine. BUT DONT TELL DAD!
Thanks guys, hopefully this will solve my problem
Taylor
p.s. In every state its illegal to have beer in the possesion of a minor possum, but in Arkansas its a 1100 dollar fine. BUT DONT TELL DAD!
#17
#18
sounds like you need to get the front end up to bleeb this thing
#19
Actually, the rear being higher helps get all the air out. If you have a vehicle that is giving you problems bleeding, raising the problem side up helps the air bubbles migrate to the open bleeders. That's why if you notice, the bleeders are the highest point in the wheel cylinder. That's because the air rises to the top of the wheel cylinder.
You could have a problem if the bleeders were higher than the master cylinder, But I don't think it would be possible to get the rearend of the truck high enough that the bleeders were above the master cylinder would it? That would be some awfully tall jacks.
You could have a problem if the bleeders were higher than the master cylinder, But I don't think it would be possible to get the rearend of the truck high enough that the bleeders were above the master cylinder would it? That would be some awfully tall jacks.
#21
Actually, the rear being higher helps get all the air out. If you have a vehicle that is giving you problems bleeding, raising the problem side up helps the air bubbles migrate to the open bleeders. That's why if you notice, the bleeders are the highest point in the wheel cylinder. That's because the air rises to the top of the wheel cylinder.
You could have a problem if the bleeders were higher than the master cylinder, But I don't think it would be possible to get the rearend of the truck high enough that the bleeders were above the master cylinder would it? That would be some awfully tall jacks.
You could have a problem if the bleeders were higher than the master cylinder, But I don't think it would be possible to get the rearend of the truck high enough that the bleeders were above the master cylinder would it? That would be some awfully tall jacks.
Will post back guys
Taylor
#22
Actually, the rear being higher helps get all the air out. If you have a vehicle that is giving you problems bleeding, raising the problem side up helps the air bubbles migrate to the open bleeders. That's why if you notice, the bleeders are the highest point in the wheel cylinder. That's because the air rises to the top of the wheel cylinder.
You could have a problem if the bleeders were higher than the master cylinder, But I don't think it would be possible to get the rearend of the truck high enough that the bleeders were above the master cylinder would it? That would be some awfully tall jacks.
You could have a problem if the bleeders were higher than the master cylinder, But I don't think it would be possible to get the rearend of the truck high enough that the bleeders were above the master cylinder would it? That would be some awfully tall jacks.
The ultimate bleeding is to pressure bleed from the wheel but this is a pain and takes special equipment.
#23
That thing has saved me so many times.
Good for testing for vacuum and and dashpot operation as well as torn diaphragms too!
#24
#25
#26
Are you getting any fluid to the back? If you have someone hold pressure on the pedal while you open the rear bleeder, what happens? Does the pedal go down as it should? If it stays up there is a restriction between the master and the rear brakes. The thing to do then is with a helper holding pressure on the brakes loosen the line connections starting at the master and working back, using each fitting like a bleeder until you find the one that you can't get anything out of.
#27
Are you getting any fluid to the back? If you have someone hold pressure on the pedal while you open the rear bleeder, what happens? Does the pedal go down as it should? If it stays up there is a restriction between the master and the rear brakes. The thing to do then is with a helper holding pressure on the brakes loosen the line connections starting at the master and working back, using each fitting like a bleeder until you find the one that you can't get anything out of.
Thanks
Taylor
#28
fluid shooting from reservoir is normal. try bleeding the front, you can sometimes get the prop. valve to reset by dropping pressure in the front system.Then when you bleed the rear, open the bleeder and have big bro push down slowly on the pedal, close bleeder, let up repeat. Sometimes it helps if you dont let the pedal go all the way down
#29
Yup, you replaced the proportioning valve but it could have tripped again and getting those things to reset can be a b***h. Try bleeding it at the rear line going into the proportioning valve, have someone hold pressure at the pedal and loosen the fitting until fluid comes out or the line comes out.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TyBragg
1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
16
01-18-2014 11:44 AM
Rusty_Old_F250
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
11
04-21-2011 11:11 PM
badboyina67
1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
01-10-2003 12:02 PM
propellerhead
1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series
9
09-06-2002 12:46 PM