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I applied a vacuum to my EGR and looked at the valve inside. It would open up with the vac applied, but the truck neither idled down or stalled. I thought this was odd and went and did the same to my dads '94 F250 and his truck had idled down a bunch with the vac applied. My EGR had help vac, but the green vacuum hose that was connected to it had no vacuum. Is this a sensor problem? Is the EGR not functioning properly (not making the truck idle down with vacuum)?
Vehicle:
1989 F250 w/ 351w
4.10 gears
C6 tranny
31,000 orig. miles
33x12.50x16.5 Truxus Mud Terrains
Flowmaster Exhaust
K&N FIPK
GAS HOG (6 mpg, if lucky 7.3)
^^ not really worried about discussing MPG issue in this post, but any suggestions are welcome
Im taking EGR off and cleaning it in about 5 mins, then im going to take the sensor up to Advanced Auto and have them see if its sending signals and what not to the computer. Ill post what i find out when im finished.
The small vac hose feeding the valve is its actuator solenoid. valve is dormant until solenoid energized. Testing or comparisons in behavior requires closed loop function (195F) operational temp. 31K. Let me guess. Did it just appear in a cloud of smoke w/ a big naked guy asking for your clothes & a pair of sunglasses? Did he give you the pink or say "I'll be back!" Anyway, 31k miles shouldn't result in a clog unless alot of short trips w/o getting out of warm up cycle occured. Then most consintrated at the port opening. Scans for error codes should ID your problem if there is one. Get a can of seafoam & run through air intake if its acting kinda like you when you first wake up in the morning!
Okay, i took off the EGR and looked at it and everything. It wasnt clogged with carbon build up, and neither was the port to the motor. I changed the EVP and put it back on the truck, applied vac, and the RPMs when wayy down.
Still the issue with getting vacuum to the EGR. I checked the green vacuum hose for cracks and kinks. there were none. Took it off and blew into it to see if it was clogged. It wasn't. So now im stumped. Help, anyone?
Have you driven the truck since you replaced the EVP? The EGR valve does not get a constant vacuum signal, it varies with engine load/throttle position and rpm (maybe even ground speed, but that's just guessing).
Have you driven the truck since you replaced the EVP? The EGR valve does not get a constant vacuum signal, it varies with engine load/throttle position and rpm (maybe even ground speed, but that's just guessing).
Ive drivin the truck about 15 miles since ive replaced the EVP. How long will it take for the computer to clear the code, if it is in fact working?
After reaching norm. oper. temp. when someone revs the accelorator does the EGR react w/ movement? And what code #'s do you have? Could you be more specific exactly what drivability problem you where having? Or you thought something else should have happen when you pulled off the vac hose ?
After reaching norm. oper. temp. when someone revs the accelorator does the EGR react w/ movement? And what code #'s do you have? Could you be more specific exactly what drivability problem you where having? Or you thought something else should have happen when you pulled off the vac hose ?
I was getting a code 33. That was the omly code i was getting. I was told that the EGR not opening could be throwing my gas mileage off. There was no noticeable drivability issues, im just trying to get better gas mileage, but i cant get the code to go away. The EGR does not open after reaching normal operating levels when the motors revved. My dads truck is a 94 f250 and I pulled the vac line off of his and i felt vac at idle, even at a cold start so I thought that mine should at least have a little vac too at idle. Am i wrong to think this?