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I'm going to build my own radius arms for my EB. I like the twisted
arm design of BCBroncos. The cost is too high though. My design will also use the tie rod ends, but the front axle housing will have unique
mounting plates (with the tapered tie rod holes) installed instead of working around the c-bush design. My question is would there be any significant difference in mounting the arms parallel to the frame instead of the 10 degree kickout? Any good feedback is welcome, especially those who have done previous front end modifications...Thanks.
AFAIK wristed and twisted radius arms are the same thing and fairly cheap since only one is modified, I have read a little bit about people taking there old r. arm and modifing locally or on their own. I dont do much with radius arms but i dont think the angle will do any thing because all the arms do is hold the axle in place. I will be more than happy finding info on the arms if you would like.
Chase
1979 F-250 4x4
71 460 Holley650, MSD OFFROAD, L&L Headers
C6-B&M Transpack
Dana HD44Front/60Rear
35 inch Goodyear Implement Tires
4 inch Skyjacker System
Much more to come
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 25-Jan-02 AT 07:59 AM (EST)]Absolutely...I'll take any and all info I can acquire. I've seen the radius arm cut and side-plated with two bolts holding it fixed until one bolt is removed for flex. It's a decent idea...My problem is the Currie 9" high-pinion axles I'm using. These are void of any mounting bracketry such as Ford uses. I've not found a front axle with 3" tubes to remove the c-bushing mounts from and re-install of the 9". It seems to be much easier to create another mounting system that is easily adjusted and allows for more axle movement.
'71 Land Rover -heavily modified
Vortec 4.3 V6
4L60E
Atlas II
Currie 9" hi-pinions (4.10:1/Detroit Lockers)
4 wheel disc brakes
EB frame (shortened/widened)
33-12.50R15 Pro Comp Xterrains
American Eagle 063, 15x10
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