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Put in a new alternator and my connection labels got rubbed off... The battery is obvious, but now I have a orange and a black connector that goes who knows where. I assume the black is the ground? Which leaves the orange left for the stator.
Now, I hooked it up assuming black was ground, and when I turn the key I get this weird, "buzzing" type sound from behind the dash it sounds like...
Ideas?
EDIT-
My eyes must be getting bad. Broke out the specs... NOW one the black connector is on the ground, and the orange is on the STA/Stator. Had the orange of the 'FLD' before. Still have the buzzing sounds. The bat is only registering 8.5 volts, so I assume that's teh issue? Would like some confirmation on these connectinos before i jump it...
Update- New Battery. Starts right up. Not charging though. Tried what the chilton manual suggests, then I tried orage to stator and black to ground. Still no charge.
I assume this is the 85? Here's how it hooks up. If it still doesn't work, I would check the battery terminal on the alternator for battery voltage with the truck off. If you don't have it, look for a fusible link burnt out in this wire.
If you still are not charging, replace the regulator. It's very easy to burn it up if the field wire is in the wrong spot.
Ran a new ground wire, and connected the orange wire to the FLD connector. Still no go. Fused wire is good, and I replaced the voltage regulator. Bad alternator?
Okay.... I *assumed* it wasnt charging because the battery light was on... Double checked with a multimeter and Im getting 12.5v off, and just under 14v running....
So, why in the world is the light on now? It wasnt even on when i really did have a bad alt..
EDIT -
Old alternator had 3 wires... Now I have four. Bat, Ground, Fld, Stator. The stator was the problem. I assume that connection was the ground... Once I plugged it into the alternator the bat light went off.
So, was my old alternator grounded through the housing or something?
Check the green/red wire going to the "s" terminal of the regulator. That's where the light hooks to. Unplug the regulator plug with the truck off, and when you turn the key, the light should be off. And when you start the truck, the light still should be off.
If it stays on with the regulator unplugged, the green/red must be touching the truck somewhere.
If the light goes out with the regulator unplugged, and then comes back on and stays on after you stop the engine and plug it back in, and start the engine again, the regulator must be faulty.