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Need help rear end assembly

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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 11:44 AM
  #1  
Ahawkeye's Avatar
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Need help rear end assembly

I'm new here but I think you guys can help. I come here a lot when things go bad with my 99 f150.
Ok here's the deal I'm pretty good with nuts and bolts, I'm a machine opperator at a factory. But I'm so so with cars and trucks. My 99 f-150 needs a new rear end assembly. I have the part and have the correct ring gear (took the numbers off the tag on the pumpkin).
I need to know the safest and easiest way for a shade tree mechanic to pull an old rear end assembly and replace with a new one. I have jack stands and need to know the best place to put them, also there is a part on the driver's side axle that is welded on to the axle and has brake lines going to it, how do I get that off and how do I get it re installed on the new axle housing? If any one has a step by step set up for this I'd really apreciate it.
Thanks,
Andrew
 
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 12:18 PM
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Welcome to the forum.
As far as the jackstands go, I would put them on the frame about where the front of the leaf springs mount.
I am not sure about the welded part. It sounds like just a distribution block. Does it have 2 metal lines and one rubber from the frame?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 06:02 PM
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I pulled a axle out of a f-150 I had bought for parts about 1 year ago.. I will tell you what I remember -

Tools
- Air tools will easily cut the effort needed for a project like this in half
- Need a line wrench for the brake lines(can get by without, but you will be furious when you round off a brake fitting.
- Plenty of PB Blaster(Very important, esp. if not using air tools
- 12mm 12 point wrench for the driveshaft bolts
- Someone to help you bleed the brakes after you install the new axle

Steps to Removal
-Jack up the rear of the truck and support by jackstands at the frame
-Remove the 4 bolts holding driveshaft to pinion, and then pull from transmission. Before you install the driveshaft, it would be a good time to grease the splines in the yoke.
-Spray all nuts and bolts down with PB Blaster and let soak in for a while
-Remove tires
-Pull off rubber vent line, then unscrew the brake line that sends the fluid to the distrubution block.
-Remove emergency cables at the equalizer(Cant tell you how to remove, I cut off the lines when I pulled the axle out of my parts truck.)
-Support axle with the floor jack
-Remove U-bolts, I believe its a 21mm?
-Lower axle down, if its 4wd set the lift blocks to the side.
-Installation is essentially the same as removal, except for bleeding the brakes.

I believe I covered everything that is needed to know.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 08:47 PM
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yep, that "welded part" was the distribution block the brake lines came off pretty easy with an 11 mm wrench and some PB Blaster (I don't think this job could be done by hand with out that!) What do I have to watch out for when removing the old brake drums? also the rear end of the drive shaft has some sort of "transition piece" that conects the drive shaft to the pumkin (or hog head is what we call it) I have'nt messed with this part yet is it easy to remove?
Thanks your advice is really helpfull!
Andrew
 
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Old Dec 7, 2008 | 09:27 PM
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Bobby82490
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From: N. Fort Myers,FL
Originally Posted by Ahawkeye
yep, that "welded part" was the distribution block the brake lines came off pretty easy with an 11 mm wrench and some PB Blaster (I don't think this job could be done by hand with out that!) What do I have to watch out for when removing the old brake drums? also the rear end of the drive shaft has some sort of "transition piece" that conects the drive shaft to the pumkin (or hog head is what we call it) I have'nt messed with this part yet is it easy to remove?
Thanks your advice is really helpfull!
Andrew
You might have to back off the adjusters for the rear brakes to remove the drums, depending on what shape the drums are in.

These newer trucks use a different approach to connect the driveshaft to the pinion. Instead of weaker style u-joint straps, they use a bolt on flange instead. There are 4 12mm 12 point bolts holding the flange connected to the driveshaft to the flange on the pinion. Remove those 4 bolts and it should come right off the pinion flange.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 06:08 AM
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"Remove those 4 bolts and it should come right off the pinion flange."
Right on so far but the new rear end doesn't have a "pinion flange", is removing the pinion flange from the old rear end hard to do? I really havn't looked that closely at it yet.
Thanks again,
Andrew
 
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Old Dec 8, 2008 | 06:23 AM
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From: N. Fort Myers,FL
Its not hard to do.. but you got to do it a certain way. You should replace the crush sleeve, but most people get by without replacing it. With that being said, Im not sure how tight the pinion nut should be.

Someone should be able to help you with this problem better than I can.. im not too sure what to tell you.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2008 | 04:59 AM
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Does anyone have any more information on this? I'll be getting back to this project this weekend all info is welcomed.
Thanks,
Andrew
 
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 07:04 AM
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Got the job done! Been waiting a long time to say that. Thanks so much for the help guys it really came in handy.
Andrew
 
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 05:38 PM
  #10  
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Glad it worked out for ya!!
 
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