Rebuilt Auto Hub Still Doesn't Work
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 157
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From: North Branford, CT
Rebuilt Auto Hub Still Doesn't Work
Today I followed Guzzle's excellent instructions to re-build my auto locking hubs. I just finished the right side. I can spin it freely and lock it manually and watch the driveshaft spin / stop. 
Then I got out my hand vacuum pump and tried to lock it with vacuum. I can't build any vacuum, something is leaking badly. It there something else behind the gub that can cause a total loss of vacuum?
I did notice while I was looking hings over that the seals are shot where the axle goes into the axle houseing and also where the knuckle goes into the rear of the wheel assembly. They look hard to change, is this serious?
Thanks,
John
Then I got out my hand vacuum pump and tried to lock it with vacuum. I can't build any vacuum, something is leaking badly. It there something else behind the gub that can cause a total loss of vacuum?
I did notice while I was looking hings over that the seals are shot where the axle goes into the axle houseing and also where the knuckle goes into the rear of the wheel assembly. They look hard to change, is this serious?
Thanks,
John
New User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 22
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From: Washington
I just replaced my outer axle seal and all hub O-rings, and found that I still couldn't build enough vacuum to lock the hub. But when I put the ignition in the run and switch on the 4wd, the hub would lock. So thats my advice.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 17
From: Millersburg, OH
Where were you measuring pressure at? This may help pin point where the leak is.
The seal on the inside of the drive axle knucle and between the axle housing is a dust seal. It would not be the source of the air pressure leak. However, the seal on the outside of the drive axle knuckle and in the steeing knuckle is an "oil seal" and if it's bad you will lose air pressure. There is also an O-ring on back side wheel hub that can leak as well.
Here are the part number you need if you think it's the source of the leak.
Oil seal (big seal): F81Z 3254CB
Front hub seal (small black seal) : F81Z 1S175HCA
ESOF seal (yellow o-ring on the back of the wheel hub): F81Z 4A322AA
An excellent how-to can be found in link below. You'll want to stop at the part about where you rip out your steering knuckle and ball joints.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
A easier and in the long run cheaper and more reliable solution is to replace the auto (ESOF) hubs with manual lockers from Warn, etc.
Here are the part number you need if you think it's the source of the leak.
Oil seal (big seal): F81Z 3254CB
Front hub seal (small black seal) : F81Z 1S175HCA
ESOF seal (yellow o-ring on the back of the wheel hub): F81Z 4A322AA
An excellent how-to can be found in link below. You'll want to stop at the part about where you rip out your steering knuckle and ball joints.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/3...ll-joints.html
A easier and in the long run cheaper and more reliable solution is to replace the auto (ESOF) hubs with manual lockers from Warn, etc.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: North Branford, CT
I'm pretty sure it's the rear seals and I'm not inclined to take them apart right now. In the mena time I removed the hoses and capped the ports. I rebuilt the hubs, so they are clean and lubricated and work well as manual hubs now. What's the advantage of Warn hubs over the stock ones with the vacuum disconnected?
John
John
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 17
From: Millersburg, OH
The auto hubs have a habit of seizing up and will not longer allow to switch between lock and unlock (auto). If yours are working ok then you won't get anything special by switching to Warns.
More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 597
Likes: 22
From: Central Maine
Just my educated opinion for cold climates and salty roads.... get some manual hubs.
The dust boot and inner axel seals aren't too bad since you do not have to pop the ball joints. Probably took me 3hrs to do one side. The inner seal is a deal only item though, about $60 if I remember correctly. I did the same as you a year or two ago, rebuilt the oem hubs and even replaced the yellow o-ring only to still have no 4wd. My mile markers are "ok" but they are difficult to engage at times and requires pliers. Wish I would have just got the warns and spend the extra $50.....
The dust boot and inner axel seals aren't too bad since you do not have to pop the ball joints. Probably took me 3hrs to do one side. The inner seal is a deal only item though, about $60 if I remember correctly. I did the same as you a year or two ago, rebuilt the oem hubs and even replaced the yellow o-ring only to still have no 4wd. My mile markers are "ok" but they are difficult to engage at times and requires pliers. Wish I would have just got the warns and spend the extra $50.....
