Ok so I leave the EVR hooked up and jump a wire from the ground wire to a ground, or how should this be done.

BTW, I wanna thank yall for yalls patience and understanding. As I said in another post, I know I sound like an idiot here, but I really do know about cars and motors, I am just more of an OLD SCHOOL mechanic. My Chevy truck that I built was an 85 so it didnt have all that computer stuff in it. All the past HOTRODS were even older. So you see I am not real experienced in this computer driven stuff

 

That would mean there is constant voltage feeding the solenoid and the ECU doesn't supply power to energize it. Only controls the path to ground. That would require a normally open relay.someone find that?
Are you thinking about a thermal resistor or position sensor circuit where the modified voltage path to ground goes though the ECU? solenoids are either normally open or normally closed & on or off w/o modulation abilities.

 

The truck has to be at norm. op. temp. (195F). Until then the ECU is off duty & engine operates in at preset over rich warm up cycle & there is no adjustment to air/fuel. Then have someone hit the accelerator and see if the Valve moves or remove the hose and put your finger on the end to check vac flow when engine is revved. If that checks out,shut off engine, put the hose back on the EGR valve & take the other end of the hose off the solenoid. While in a position to observe the diaphragm movement of the EGR
Valve. Suck on the hose until the diaphragm appears to have maxed out it's range of travel, then hold your tongue on the end & observe weather the position of the diaphragm changes (starts to return to normal resting position). If so and the hose end remained sealed, then the Valve is bad and not able to supply adequate flow when PCM attempts to modulate comb. chmbr. Temps.. If diaphragm position held, the valve's functional and also is probably good and clogged internally and at engine mount port orifice. Remove and clean w/ carb cleaner while manually actuating the valve making sure the pindle plunger seats securely in its normal position. If you think it can't provide a seal, the importance for this component to function correctly & reliably is such that replacement cost being under a C-note, it's worth it just for the peace of mind that you can pretty safely exclude this component in future trouble shooting adventures for many thousands of miles to come. If you can convince anybody or yourself that a component that functions so redundantly while subjected to extreme temps. & chemical compounds in their most active states after logging 177K miles, functions as efficiently as it did when it was new, if your not in sales you missed your calling! also, the code you couldn't remember (Maybe:sensor out of range, always lean). If your over 30k miles on it, it's lost accuracy, and even slow in reporting that. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but if it's reporting out of range & lean only and been in service long enough that you can't remember how long its been, it probably should be retired $70. for a new o2 sens. or $70 and more into your tank for the extra gas used by not buying one. How ECUs Use Closed-Loop Controls to Make Fueling Corrections v1.02 - Mazda Forums Check out the article at this link(scroll to the top of its page)

 

The EVR has a constant +12V supplied from the EEC relay. The ground path goes to the engine computer, where it is pulse width modulated to regulate the amount of vacuum supplied to the EGR valve, believe it or not. The EGR valve should see at most about 8 inches of vacuum, never full engine vacuum -- this would not be possible with a simple on/off circuit. There's no hidden relay either, as a relay could not switch fast enough to PWM the EVR position.

Most engine computers enter closed loop fuel control beginning around 170-180F, so 195 is not absolutely necessary; as long as it is close it will be fine. On these trucks, most O2 sensor codes do not indicate a problem with the O2 sensor itself, but rather an operating condition of the engine caused by another problem. If you like spending money, go ahead and replace it every 30,000 miles, but know that it is designed to last at least twice that long.

 

Well my response regarding the EVP overveiw is its a good thing I wasn't wearing boots or my foot might still be stuck in my mouth. Damn, I just had my teeth cleaned too! I've never cracked one open to see the guts. So why don't they call it a flow modulation valve. It's not that many more letters for the sake of accuracy. reminds me of something I heard once " Yah, it was exactly like that! Except compleatly different! As far as EGR info, Google should be embarassed. On the close loop temp. I mention 195 to offset any lack of patience to proceed before close loop actually begins. And the Generic 30k was to reassure him he's gotten his monies worth out of it after he mentioned that to the best of his memory the o2 sens. was O.E. and w/ 177k miles logged on it, it's likely it will cost him more to not replace it. I tried to think of anybody I knew that really didn't like spending money and no one comes to mind. Although earning it first seems to rub em the wrong way. Anyway, thanks for the EGR enlightenment and have a good day, nobody can do that for you. But they'll stand in line sometimes to screw one up!

 

I didn't mean to imply not to replace an OE oxygen sensor after 177k miles, and it definitely can't hurt if the mileage of the previous replacement (if any) is unknown.

 

Ok I tested the EVR and it seemed like it tested OK. When I grounded it, the truck almost died, so I guess thats means its working good, right!. If the the test on this EGR and the EVR made the truck die or almost die means evrything is working correctly, am I right about that?

I called the parts store, they said they showed two differerent O2 Sensors, an upper and a rear. I could only see one on the truck, I have not changed it yet, but will later today.

How can I tell if I have the MAF Sensor or the Speed something or other, cant remember what yall called it, and how would I take that apart and clean it.

I cant find any vacuum leaks and I looked over everything, What else could I check that could be causing this pinging noise BTW, when I did the SEAFOAM thing, I only let it sit for about 5 minutes like the bottle said, should I have let it sit longer? Also when I started the truck with the SEAFOAM, I did notice that there was some smoke coming from the EXHAUST MANIFOLD areas, but there does sound like there is an exhaust leak anywhere.

I pulled the air intake hoses and the throttle boby appeared to pretty clean. I really dont want to have to set the timing back any, I dont want to lose any power or any more gas milage than it already has. I know this thing is not going to be the greatest on milage anyway, but I does kinda suck now.

I am also going to check into removing the Catalytic Converter, if that could be a problem, but It seems to flow good.

 

OK, NO MAF, only the two tubes that run from the intake to the air filter box

 

An EGR Valve that doses not seat well or unable to maintain a seal will result in an O2 "system always lean" error, elevated combustion chamber temps. lower MPG's, and lest we forget , Ping!

 

I didnt think of it that way, but if it were not seating completely, wouldn't that make the truck run bad or at least, Idle rough, It idles and runs great

Would the computer compensate enough for a leaky EGR and make it idle and run smooth?

 

Ok I changed the O2, BTW, I am not real sure it was original now, It said BOSCH on it but also had the FORD emblem stamped on it as well. I will test drive in a post back if that fixed the problem

 

peak temperatures will be lower with exhaust gases present in the mixture (although inlet temperatures could be higher depending on the amount of EGR flow).

 

I'm thinkin buildup within, at the valve seat & at the port opening possibly not allowing complete closure when it's supposed to be, causing a leaning out that builds chamber temps & also impends adequate flow on PCM demand. Without removing the valve, from the exterior it would appear to be fine. Then there's the possibility that the Cat has developed a back pressure condition which can push up the chamber temps and keep em there. That can tend to nulify an EGR's best efforts.

 

Well as I said, when I can get it in I am going to have the CAT removed or maybe put on a high flow CAT. As far as the EGR, I guess I am going to have to take it off and make sure the ports are completely clear

 

At op.temp. if you bring it up to 2k rpm and show less than 17-18 vac psi would imply exhaust restriction. You might notice heat discoloration at the entrance of the cat.