Well, Its that time of year that it starts getting cold around here in my area. And after all the starting troubles I had last year going into winter using either at every cold start, constantly killing my battery, half my glow plugs working with 3 different brands, this year should be 10Xs easier.

It was 20 degrees out this morning and held my glowplugs on for about 12 seconds and it busted right off, quick. Since last year, I put all new motorcraft/buru plugs in and now its time to put them too the test. So far I have used them on every cold start for the past month and they work great. This was by far the coldest start this year. Now I will have to wait and see how well it starts when it get close to 0 degrees out.

This is just an FYI post. I started manualy activating my glowplugs this year. I hold them about 10-12 seconds then start. I will soon put a push button on the dash so I don't have to use my knif to jump the solonoide under the hood anymore. (bad gp controller)

 

I finally broke down and put in new motorcrafts gp's, and she'll was still slow to crank, I put new cables on, she still needs a main ground cable, but no one has any 00 cable. And she cranked real quick and fired up this morning, but quickly died, I'm just hopin its a frozen fuel filter because I haven't thought about drainin it in a good month or so.

 

I'm one step ahead of you I wired the manual switch up yestarday didn't hook up to the to the relay yet as it still works fine just in case I can go manual now in 5 minutes.

 

my truck came with the glow plugs on a black toggle switch

 

dean88, It looks like your also 1 steap ahead of me. I need to change my battery cables as well, but if I can ever get the new ones out of the back seat........

If your still looking for the negitive cables, O-rilies sells the cables for these trucks. They may have to dig for a few minuits but they had the positive factory setup cables from motorcraft for half the price ford sells them at. They even came withe the bend and bracket for down at the bottom front of the engine. where the cable goes to the starter. Im sure they have the negitive cause I remember them asking me about them.

Starmilt, I would go ahead and hook up that backup setup you got. Mine quit during the Ice storm we had at the beginning of last winter. My hood was frozen shut and had to rap a cresent wrench in a sock and hit all the way around the hood to get it open. Then I had to take off the air cleaner to get to the gp relay. After I got it started, I was putting the aircleaner back on and shorted out the IP power and it died. So I had to find the fues for it, swap it with a less important fuse. By that time, it was already to cold so back off with the air cleaner to access the gp relay. Thats Why i bought either after that.

Now accessing the gp relay is no big deal because the turbo install required i move it to the right valve cover, which makes it easily accessed.

Oh and you also have to make a ground for the gp relay if its the one mounted to the controller. If you just run a positive to the relay, the gp modual will cut off the ground. At least mine did anyway when I did a test jump.

 

Yea I'm leaving for Alaska in the morning that is why I went ahead and wired it up.Mine is the oldstyle the wire is right there with a ring on it shouldnt take 5 minutes.
Hood iced up beating it with a crecant wrench would be a bi... .

 

On the new style controllers you run a ground wire from the push button to the white wire terminal on the relay.

The key supplies power to the ignition terminal on the relay when the key is on at all times.

 

Ok, that expains alot. I was wondering why it would click on then imidatly off when i applied power to the positive side. Thanks. Thats 1 less wire to put in.

 

Megacab if you can get the search to work for you Dave.S has good pictures and detailed instructions to go manual on these.