The transfer case that comes ready to mount behind a ZF 6 does not have provisions for a speedo either.

92 was when the speedo pickup was moved from the transfer case or transmission to the rear axle.
The ZF 6 did not appear until 99, so it never had provisions for a speedo drive and neither did the transfer case that went behind it.

This goes back to what I say frequenty about upgrades just like the original post here.
Many times upgrading one part has implications on other parts that you would normally never think about.

I purchased a ZF 6 and transfer case a couple years ago.
Rather easy swap for the most when you just look at the transmission and transfer case.
But looking a little deeper, now I am changing the rear axle and going to have to make some provision for mounting a 92+ speedo in my 86 dash or swapping to some electronic aftermarket speedo.
When you look at everything involved, suddenly the costs in both money and time have doubled just to get back to where you were.

Even going to a divorced transfer case, fine option.
But now you are looking at custom driveshafts, custom transfer case mounts and modifications to the shift linkage.

None of these mods are out of the question, many are not even that expensive, but they all take more time than I can stand to be without a truck since I only own one vehicle.

As for cutting down the shafts in a 1356, well that again is custom parts.
Break one and there is only one way you get the truck back on the road, that is have another one made.
If you broke as much driveline stuff as I have, you would understand why I am against custom parts for the driveline.
As long as the driveline stays in a form that did roll off the factory assembly line, there are tons of parts out there between dealers, parts houses and salvage yards which means getting replacement parts takes hours instead of days or weeks.

I am not making excuses, I am looking at what is required in a realistic way which considers everything involved and weighing the options and trade offs each involve.
Having six gears would be nice, overdrive would be even nicer.
But when I look at the bottom line, that is a huge investment to make for a few more MPG which would take a very long time to recover in fuel savings even at 4+ dollar a gallon fuel prices.

 

Dave Is The Man!

 

A 466 swap in anything older than a Super Duty isn't going to fit. If you're talking F450 or bigger, then possibly. True, it would shred most pickup trannies. If you dont want to make much power with a 466, then why put one in? Isn't the point of it to be more powerful? Besides the shock, and WOW factor. It's like a 3208 Kat, why put a non-turboed version in a pickup? You can make 210hp with a 7.3IDI.
Dave, that guy with the 3208. They can be easily adjusted for more rpm, and 3100 is a safe max rpm.
As a rule of thumb, figure torque is about 2.5 times the HP in a typical Med duty truck engine.

 

lets put a dt360 in my truck i provid the truck u provid the motor

 

I'm still trying to figgure out how to get that 3408 under my hood.lol


Gonna go with a 6x4 203 205 doubler.

 

Here is some inspiration if someone is still wanting to do this swap.

74 F250 w/ DT466 pictures from trucks photos on webshots


https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...&albumid=19090

The older truck swap looks a little more natural, while the 89 looks like someone just stuck a ford cab on top of a medium truck frame, although I don't think it is. I don't think I would have done the swap if I had to do it that way. Heck using that method you could take some thick walled square tubing and jack the cab way up in the air and mount a 16v171 in there, that would be something that no one else has ever done.

 

With those power levels, you would be better off with a mild 12V Cummins. It's not worth the effort and expense for that small of a hp/ torrque gain.

I don't see why a ZF 5 (and the rest of the drivetrain) would live behind it. They are way under rated for what they will actually handle. I've seen many of them stand up to modded Cummins and PSD's. Tearing them up is more from driver abuse than anything. Horsepower in the wrong hands is a bad thing. And expecting a 20 year old part to last without maintenance and replacing it with another worn out used part when the first one breaks.
I'd say that the aluminum chain drive transfer case is the weak drivetrain link.

The 3208 will turn at least 3K RPM's, as someone else mentioned. If the guy was only getting 2100 out of it, I would imagine something was wrong with the pump.

Jason

 

Exxxxxxtttteeeendded hood F-series...

I'll take a E model 3406 (500 or better), 13 speed, 4.10 gears and 44" tires.

Jason

 

I need to get some pictures of Rogers truck, it is an off road only creature now though.

He was a mechanic at Cat for years, put the 3208 in just to be different.
When he did it, Clark 5 speed direct drive tranny, custom transmission to transfer case driveshaft for the divorced transfer case.

His big problem was Cats torque though, the drive shaft just would not take it.
With all the hills we have here, drop down a hill and the govenor shuts the fuel down.
When he started up the next hill, the govenor would open up, there went the drive shaft.

As for the ZF 5 tranny, if my transmission guy has not been to the scrap yard for a while I will take a picture of a dumpster full of broken ZF 5 cases.
Many of them came out of IDI trucks, so that puts max torque a bit over 400 ft. pounds.

520 and up, no way the aluminum case will handle it.

If I drive easy, I can make my driveshft last for two years.
By the end of the second year, to change a U joint just remove the clips, slide the U joint out with your fingers, slide the new one in and replace the clips.

10 minute job and only need a wrench to unbolt the U hoint from the axle or transfer case and a pair of pliers to remove the clips.

I have also split a 1345 case and twisted the yoke off the rear axle just driving up a hill.
Granted I was grossing about 23,000 pounds and the hill was about a 14% grade, but I was just driving along when it went bang.

 

You can put the new u joint caps in with your fingers? Probably some of the reason why they don't last.

Usually it is not what you were doing at the time that causes drivetrain parts to fail. Spinning hard thru the mud, slipping the tires or shocking the drivetrain to get a big load moving over time is what does it.
Kinda like the kid that tells his dad that the axle just broke while he was going down the road. Failing to mention the fact that he was doing smoky burnouts in the Walmart parking lot and burnin' them off from stop lights to impress his buddies...

Jason

 

The cap holes stretch over time in the drive shaft yokes.

I have no idea what I am putting out for torque or HP, and yes we do have some steep grades around here.
I haul a lot, tow a lot more.

I have never reved the engine up and dumped the clutch in over 400,000 miles, drove a big truck to long and I know better than that.

New driveshaft this summer, so now if I am good, I won't have to think about it again for 2 years.

Sure is a drag to have to take the driveshaft out to change U joints and need a C clamp to press them in now.
That all takes to long and to many tools

 

I know. But if you're going through parts that quickly...

Wouldn't take much to shock load the drivetrain, even if you are gentle on it.
Don't even have to be above idle rpm.

Jason

 

Come on, you know you just need to get a Dodge with a Cummins in it for a back-up.
It probably should be the other way around but we can start with baby steps.
You need like a $4-5K '94-'98 with an NV4500, throw in an up-graded REAL hub kit and you'll be good to go.
The previous owner probably had to fix the O.D. gear retainer nut already.
You could have some REAL fun playing with that Bosch P7100 IP too.
You don't have to admit you bought one, we'll never know the difference.

If I can own 5 Fords you can own one Dodge!

 

Then he would have to buy 4 or 5 more fords to park it behind so the neighbors cant see it.

 

I have enough headaches with the ones I am around at work.

An 84 3500 gasser that has the death wobble so bad at times you never know when it is going to tear you fingers off.
An 86 3500 gasser that will pass everything but a gas station.
Also a 2000 3500 diesel extended cab that is one of the worst driving trucks I have ever driven it wanders around so bad on the interstate.
And then there is the 2003 3500 crew cab diesel, which you never know if it will start or not.

That 2000, 50 miles in it makes your arms feel like you drove a semi for 600 miles, Dodge says nothing wrong with the alignment.
If I paid that much money for a new truck and it drove like that, someone would have it where the sun don't shine.

Out of the bunch, other than the 4.56 gears and the death wobble if I had to pick one to drive it would be the 84.
Ya just gotta watch how you hold the steering wheel in every turn, the slightest bump and the ride get's real interesting.


No, I have a very steep hill beside my driveway, probably in the 70+ degree range for 90 feet down to the creek.

Slight error on the parking brake would take care of any Dodge in my driveway.