Strange noises
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 1
Strange noises
I have a 2000 single cab Ranger, 2.5 liter, 5 speed manual trans.
Thanks,
- when I start it, it sounds like a bunch of relays clicking from under the hood.
- when I accelerate I can hear a faint whine. gets a little lounder as the rpm's come up, and goes away when the gas pedal is released. It almost sounds like a very faint turbo or supercharger.
Thanks,
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 761
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From: Southeast MI
Have you put your finger on the valve cove as it idles? Get a cheap stethoscope from HarborFreight & I noticed they have an electronic one for $36. Whatever's wrong, the scope should trace it. SOUNDS from this end of your post like a bad head. Sorry. I was going to say a torque converter to #2 until I re-read & noticed 5-sp stick.
O yeah, could still be driveline to #2 though. Low fluids somewhere.
O yeah, could still be driveline to #2 though. Low fluids somewhere.
New User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Washington Lowlands
Is the relay-like clicking tied to RPM, too, or is it more random?
For what it's worth, my 2000's 2.5 has always been a noisy beast, with a rpm-speed click, right off the dealer lot brand new. Usually louder when it's cold.
The 2.3s seem like much quieter engines.
For what it's worth, my 2000's 2.5 has always been a noisy beast, with a rpm-speed click, right off the dealer lot brand new. Usually louder when it's cold.
The 2.3s seem like much quieter engines.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 1
Have you put your finger on the valve cove as it idles? Get a cheap stethoscope from HarborFreight & I noticed they have an electronic one for $36. Whatever's wrong, the scope should trace it. SOUNDS from this end of your post like a bad head. Sorry. I was going to say a torque converter to #2 until I re-read & noticed 5-sp stick. O yeah, could still be driveline to #2 though. Low fluids somewhere.
O yeah, could still be driveline to #2 though. Low fluids somewhere.I haven't felt the valve cover, but was able to squeeze the pcv hose from the valve cover with a noticeable drop in idle rpm's.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2007
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Squeezing off that hose will cut down on the air (Blow by) from the crank case and slow the idle.
What weight oil are you using, and how many miles has it got on it, and has it been serviced regularly?
Does the noise sound like valve ticking or lifter clatter. Is the AC or defroster on when you start it?
We need more info to help you.
What weight oil are you using, and how many miles has it got on it, and has it been serviced regularly?
Does the noise sound like valve ticking or lifter clatter. Is the AC or defroster on when you start it?
We need more info to help you.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
On the whine under load, that goes away when you let up on the go pedal, I'd check the tanny fluid level pronto, if it's low, then top it off with the proper fluid & check the rubber plugs in the side of the tranny case, as they have a history of leaking.
Not sure yet what to make of the relay clicking sounds.
Any driveability, or engine operation problems associated with the sound????
If it only happens when you go to KOER, just before you go to start/crank the engine, it could be the fuel pump power relay, as the computer actuates the fuel pump through it for a second or two, to build fuel pressure, before the start.
So if you have A/C, you could try swapping it's power relay, or another systems power relay, not needed to run the engine, with the fuel pumps relay & see if the clicking sound changes. If so, suspect the fuel pump relay is acting out & replace it.
They are common problem parts. The power relays are located in the underhood power distribution box, back on the firewall, by drivers side fender, just outboard of the brake master cylinder.
Let us know what you find.
Not sure yet what to make of the relay clicking sounds.
Any driveability, or engine operation problems associated with the sound????
If it only happens when you go to KOER, just before you go to start/crank the engine, it could be the fuel pump power relay, as the computer actuates the fuel pump through it for a second or two, to build fuel pressure, before the start.
So if you have A/C, you could try swapping it's power relay, or another systems power relay, not needed to run the engine, with the fuel pumps relay & see if the clicking sound changes. If so, suspect the fuel pump relay is acting out & replace it.
They are common problem parts. The power relays are located in the underhood power distribution box, back on the firewall, by drivers side fender, just outboard of the brake master cylinder.
Let us know what you find.
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 1
Squeezing off that hose will cut down on the air (Blow by) from the crank case and slow the idle.
What weight oil are you using, and how many miles has it got on it, and has it been serviced regularly?
Does the noise sound like valve ticking or lifter clatter. Is the AC or defroster on when you start it?
We need more info to help you.
What weight oil are you using, and how many miles has it got on it, and has it been serviced regularly?
Does the noise sound like valve ticking or lifter clatter. Is the AC or defroster on when you start it?
We need more info to help you.
On the whine under load, that goes away when you let up on the go pedal, I'd check the tanny fluid level pronto, if it's low, then top it off with the proper fluid & check the rubber plugs in the side of the tranny case, as they have a history of leaking.
Not sure yet what to make of the relay clicking sounds.
Any driveability, or engine operation problems associated with the sound????
If it only happens when you go to KOER, just before you go to start/crank the engine, it could be the fuel pump power relay, as the computer actuates the fuel pump through it for a second or two, to build fuel pressure, before the start.
So if you have A/C, you could try swapping it's power relay, or another systems power relay, not needed to run the engine, with the fuel pumps relay & see if the clicking sound changes. If so, suspect the fuel pump relay is acting out & replace it.
They are common problem parts. The power relays are located in the underhood power distribution box, back on the firewall, by drivers side fender, just outboard of the brake master cylinder.
Let us know what you find.
Not sure yet what to make of the relay clicking sounds.
Any driveability, or engine operation problems associated with the sound????
If it only happens when you go to KOER, just before you go to start/crank the engine, it could be the fuel pump power relay, as the computer actuates the fuel pump through it for a second or two, to build fuel pressure, before the start.
So if you have A/C, you could try swapping it's power relay, or another systems power relay, not needed to run the engine, with the fuel pumps relay & see if the clicking sound changes. If so, suspect the fuel pump relay is acting out & replace it.
They are common problem parts. The power relays are located in the underhood power distribution box, back on the firewall, by drivers side fender, just outboard of the brake master cylinder.
Let us know what you find.
The clicking sounds are right after the engine starts, when the key comes back to the run position. Right now there are no other problems driving it. It's getting 24mpg's running on real 87 octane gas.
I will try to listen to the relays when I get a helper.
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Moderator
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 13,851
Likes: 111
From: SW Va
Truck just turned 140,000 miles. I gave it an oil change less than a 1,000 miles ago. I put Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend in it. I'm also using a Motorcraft oil filter. The noise is definetly not lifter noise. The AC or defroster isn't on, just in the vent position.
I will check the transmission fluid level. since it's a manual, what should I use if it's low?
The clicking sounds are right after the engine starts, when the key comes back to the run position. Right now there are no other problems driving it. It's getting 24mpg's running on real 87 octane gas.
I will try to listen to the relays when I get a helper.
I will check the transmission fluid level. since it's a manual, what should I use if it's low?
The clicking sounds are right after the engine starts, when the key comes back to the run position. Right now there are no other problems driving it. It's getting 24mpg's running on real 87 octane gas.
I will try to listen to the relays when I get a helper.
So, If you aren't sure whats in there now & especially if it's low, or if it's never been chaged, why not consider just draining it & put in all new up speced Motorcraft Mercon-5/Mercon dual use fluid.
This way any wear particles & old oxidized fluid are removed & the tranny fluids add pack is replenished.
The tranny origonally had Mercon specified, but Ford no longer markets it & changed to a dual use Mercon-V/Mercon fluid a couple of years ago & I wouldn't mix the old Mercon with the new Mercon-V-/Mercon recipe.
So for several reasons, if it's low, just drain the old fluid & use the new recipe Mercon-V/Mercon, check the tanny case rubber plugs for leaks & see how it goes.
If you don't have an owners manual, you can down load one from a link in the "Tech Info" thread atop this forum.
Still not sure what the "clicking" is, that your hearing.
More thoughts for pondering.
Let us know how it goes.
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 1
Went out to look at the truck over the past weekend. It must have senced it and fixed it's self. no more strange noises coming from it. The clicking noises went away, along with the whine. The only thing I did was fill up at a Sinclair station instead of Shell. The trans fluid level is good. 