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I have been reading through all the posts about egr problems on trucks with 4.6l. My truck has been riding for a while with the CEL on and I never had a problem until now. I get a P401 code(insufficient flow)when i scan it. I have replaced the egr valve, and removed the TB and thoroughly cleaned it. I just did the TB this weekend. It helped none. I am probably at about 20 % power loss now. I think I have narrowed it down to the DPFE, but don't want to pay dealer price for it. I have heard that there is an aftermarket replacement for PN F7UE-9J460-AA. I was wondering if anyone knew if this is true. And if so, where I could get one. My local parts houses can't get one and the dealership wants 150 for it. I would also like to make sure I'm headed in the right direction. Any help or information would be greatly appreciated.
Check with one of the Ford parts guys that sponsor this site. Their prices are very good (by comparison). I wouldn't use an aftermarket DPFE. They don't seem to last nearly as long.
When you cleaned the TB, did you clean out the 2 EGR ports?
Yes. They were 100% clogged. I had to use a hanger, wire brush and 3 cans of carb cleaner. That was some serious buildup in there. Where would I contact the dealer guys on the site you were talking about. I'm kinda new here. Thanks
Well I finally received the replacement part for my DPFE. I hope PN F77Z-9J460-AB is the replacement for F7UE-9J460-AA. After clearing the CEL and putting the new part on, still no change. Looks like it is back to the drawing board for me. Any other ideas that I could try?
Well, I'm no great diagnostician, but the next thing I would do is run a can of seafoam through the brake booster like the can says. Then, after that cleared out I would probably add another to the fuel tank. If the fuel filter hasn't been changed in a while I might go after that one. If it isn't throwing any codes, then it seems like a loss of power would have to be related to poor fuel mixture or flow or bad ignition. You might pull a plug and see how it looks just cause no matter what the computer says, a plug in your hand can tell you a lot.
Also, you might give a little more info to the great group of technicians on this site - mileage, other conditions or things you have noticed, etc. There's so many factors that all the info possible is best to include. Anything noticable happening to your gas mileage? Any recent mods?
I am having similar egr problems. 02 F-150 SCrew, 167,000 miles.
SE light came on, truck began to hesitate when pressing down on the gas. Seemed to be worse when starting from a dead stop and when running about 45-55 mph and trying to accelerate. But would also "skip" when at crusing speed.
Took to local Autozone for scan. Code P401 was set and I replaced the egr valve. Code cleared, then came right back within a few miles. I have now replaced the DPFE. Code celared and has stayed clear. Also put Prestone Fuel System Cleaner when I filled up yesterday. Ran a short trip (about 250 miles) yesterday. Truck is still skipping and hesitating at 45-55 mph. Noticed it also happens mostly at about 1500-1800 rpm. I assume this is when running overdrive gear.
It sounds like you went about this backwards(cleaning the ports first), but I guess it doesn't matter since they were clogged. Ask yourself how does this EGR system work? Ford uses the DPFE system. The ECM commands the EGR to "OPEN" via a solenoid which provides vacuum to the EGR valve enabling the exhaust to flow back into the intake(a terrible idea spawned by the EPA) while the DPFE monitors the whole operation and reports back to the ECM whether everything is working properly or not. Cleaning the 2 ports is a good idea, but why do you just parts swap without troubleshooting the problem to figure out which part is actually bad. When you disconnect the vacuum line to the EGR valve does idle speed change? Did you connect a vacuum pump to the EGR hose and simulate a ECM "OPEN" command? Did you check the input voltage to the EGR soleniod? Did you apply 12Vdc to the soleniod to see if the EGR valve opens(simulating a ECM command)? Did you check all the vacuum hoses for cracks and leaks? You can either fix this problem or just bypass the EGR system altogether with a hacksaw. You just cut the tube going from the ex man to the EGR about 1" about the bung on the ex man. Remove the big nut on the ex man and put 2 quarters in there to block exhaust flow. Put the nut back on. You can throw away the little piece where you hacksawed the tube. You'll never have an EGR problem again if the EGR system is working properly when you do this mod. Ford makes $1,200.00 a pop to fix this problem and as soon as you drive the vehicle off of the lot the system begins to get clogged all over again.
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