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Brake Booster

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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 09:56 PM
  #1  
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Brake Booster

How much vacume should I have ging to the booster? My brakes are soft. I can push the pedal to the floor wihout the fronts even thinking about locking up. I have 35s A/Ts on it but I think they ought to work better than they do.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 10:00 PM
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Sounds like you have an hydraulic problem with the brakes, not the booster. If the booster failed, pedal effort would be much higher for the same braking force. From your description, braking force, not pedal effort, is the issue.

To answer your question, though, the booster should get full engine vacuum, which should be in the neighborhood of 20" at closed throttle.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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Id bleed the brakes out. Does it use brake fluid. EPN hit it dead on.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 11:08 AM
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If you hold steady pressure on the brake pedal does it slowly sink to the floor?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 02:09 PM
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No not that I notice because I can push it to th floor with resistance, but it is very spongy and I have bleed and bleed the brakes and no air has come out. I do not loose fluid, and I have installed a new master cylinder. I can push the pedal to the floor and the best analogy I can think of is is feels like a have a large trailer pushing me. It does not want to stop. The booster has about 300K miles on it also. I am at a loss. I realize that with 35s I will loose some breaking but this is an abnormal amount. The only thing left that I can think of is the booster. Any other ideas?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 02:24 PM
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It is not the booster. Sounds like you have air in the system. When you fitted the new master cylinder did you bench bleed it? When you bled the brakes did you bleed the RABS valve unit after the rears and before the fronts?
 
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 03:21 PM
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I bench bled the cylinder but not the RABS I was under the assumption it would pass the air. Maybe I need to remove the master cylinder and rebleed it as well as the RABS. I already ordered a new booster as you can hear a small hiss from time to time at a red light. As I said it has 300K plus on it. I will give all that a try. I figured the master cylinder would pass any missed air as well as the RABS unit. I never had a problem with the RABS before.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 04:43 PM
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Master cyliders do not "pass air" very well, bench bleeding is VARY important. With these Ford masters because you can't really get a line back into the reservior I go so far as to bench bleed it with the body of the master submerged in brake fluid.

If I had learned one thing from this site it is that the RABS is notorious for bleeding problems.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2008 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Opossum
If I had learned one thing from this site it is that the RABS is notorious for bleeding problems.
Absolutely 100% correct. I would also suggest looking at the RABS module for the problem. There is a bleed screw on it, try bleeding it and then the rear brakes. Eliminating the RABS altogether is also not a bad idea, the system doesn't work very well and it's debatable whether it's worth keeping.

It's definitely not the booster. A bad booster can never cause a soft pedal.
 
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Old Dec 2, 2008 | 09:05 PM
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As soon as I get the drive shaft back from the shop I am going to bleed the RABS. To eliminate it do I need to install a proportioning valve?
 
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 11:56 AM
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No, you just need to bypass it with a piece of brake line.
 
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Old Dec 3, 2008 | 01:55 PM
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It's been a long time since I've had brake issues but isn't their a proportioning valve hanging off the master that properly proportions front to rear. If so, what happens if the lines got reversed. Any validity to that notion or did I just have another senior moment they keep telling me to get used to?
 
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